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Block Heater 3116 LMTV... Is there an NPT port on side of engine?

coachgeo

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Updated: Block heater is a Kim Hotstart info added to show part number(s) for others who may be interested. This I think is a version that may not be superseded??
BlockHeater_s-l1600.jpg
Cord used is IM6-1IN-FM (FM means it is the Flush Mount "kit".... Im6-1IN is just the cord.)
Heat Shield is simply HS 1

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Want to keep her for a long while and know that starting an engine is one of its biggest wear times... thus the desire to start her warm am putting a block heater in her.

Found a fair deal on a NOS press in block heater for a 3116. (non military product) Put in the order. It just replaces freeze plug by Turbo in the block. Made by Kim. Found the install sheet. Got fair deal cause the cord is missing. Found a "potential" Kim replacement cord that actually comes with a thermostat. Much less expensive than the OEM cord w/out this option. Sweet... Plug up the truck... and it only comes on if necessary.

Anyway........ the thermostat screws into a NPT port in the block it seems. Looked at a few pics that I could find since it is dark outside and not prepped truck for tilting cab at this moment. Maybe a guru in here might know without looking at side of their engine... Is there an NPT port on the turbo side of the engine that is in front of a coolant jacket. A block drain port maybe? Looked at pics but hard to see since it is all YELLOW making it a bit deceiving.

Thanks in Advance for any assistance.
 
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coachgeo

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found out more about the thermostat-ed cord and decided not to go that route. The ones I found on sale were at temp ranges made for Gen Sets that need to jump into full load nearly immediately so they keep the coolant HOT pretty much all the time. Thus, just going with a generic power cord found on Flea bay at a fair price after much searching. Decided on makeing a heat shield instead of buying one. Heat shield protects the power cord from Exhaust temps.

In attached pic an arrow points a bolt head in the block. What is this bolt sitting right next to the Coolant Plug the heater will get installed in? Wondering if I can use it to hold a the heat shield... or would loosening or removing it to install the shield create a potential leak of coolant or oil later on?
3116Huh.jpg
 

coachgeo

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Well hello nelly...... just did one more search for the heck of it ... and found the OEM shield at a price could not turn down

..... but question still remains about the port but for another reason.. would this maybe be a good place to drain the block for install this in that freeze plug in pic? This port is next to the freeze plug recommended to use by Kim Hotstart but instructions just say... "install in freeze plug by turbo "and nothing else more about draining block... where drain it etc..
 
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aleigh

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I am the last person to throw shade on an OEM upgrade to a M/V but I have to ask, does it really get that cold in your AO? I grew up in Canada and the general wisdom there was block heaters started being useful when you are starting in single digits Fahrenheit. If you are operating in true arctic conditions you may know there are the FMTV grill covers and things. I actually have a NOS one but it must be not complete because i have no idea how to actually attach it to the truck. It's like a big blanket with button snaps on it.
 

coachgeo

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I am the last person to throw shade on an OEM upgrade to a M/V but I have to ask, does it really get that cold in your AO? I grew up in Canada and the general wisdom there was block heaters started being useful when you are starting in single digits Fahrenheit. If you are operating in true arctic conditions you may know there are the FMTV grill covers and things. I actually have a NOS one but it must be not complete because i have no idea how to actually attach it to the truck. It's like a big blanket with button snaps on it.
not sure you saw the edit when you posted this but did add I was adding this mostly to improve longevity of the engine. Soooo... to answer your question..... Technically no not a neccessity

.... but start up is hardest on engines.... have read this engine is cold natured anyway and mine sure seems to be. It starts between 35-40F (has not been colder yet).. but takes short while to be firing on all cylinders well with normal diesel fuel. That leaves unburnt fuel to creep down cylinder walls, sit on piston tops etc. Adds to the inherent coking of rings, cylinder tops etc. Add to that if one is using any fuel extenders based on Alternative fuels like Black Diesel, Veg. fuels etc. then anything to reduce coking AKA improve combustion right at start up is a good thing. Smart folk who use such extenders should use a block heater ALL the time to reduce coking potential. All engines coke... but the less the better.
 
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aleigh

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Everyone loves mechanical diesel injection right. I have heard these engines are hard to start in the cold and spent my first two years of owning the truck waiting for that problem, only for it to never materialize. A few times mine has started weak (rumbles and puffs smoke and then catches and runs properly) but usually it starts right up, even in sub-freezing temperatures. I mention this not to discourage the heater idea but to suggest if you have hard starts around freezing maybe something else is wrong. Injector adjustment or leak, fuel filters, etc.
 

coachgeo

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Everyone loves mechanical diesel injection right. I have heard these engines are hard to start in the cold and spent my first two years of owning the truck waiting for that problem, only for it to never materialize. A few times mine has started weak (rumbles and puffs smoke and then catches and runs properly) but usually it starts right up, even in sub-freezing temperatures. I mention this not to discourage the heater idea but to suggest if you have hard starts around freezing maybe something else is wrong. Injector adjustment or leak, fuel filters, etc.
Could well be. Thanks for heads up.

have you always done your start ups in phoenix AZ winter weather? Curious if your day time/night time weather temp swings are larger. 40's to 30's is not much swing here, (this time of year...... low 40's 20's later in the year) where there in Phoenix 50's to 30's might make the difference in block staying just warm enough to not cough and sputter as much.
 

snowtrac nome

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There are 2 different size threads, so take your can in to napa and they can hook you up with a new canister. You will cuss a bit pulling the old one out S&S really shoe horned it in between the spare tire and air filter.
 

snowtrac nome

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Read your manual before using the cold starting aid, it does not have a pressure switch in the system to keep you from giving it a squirt with out cranking the motor over. The way I do it is depress the cold start switch, crank the motor and release the start aid switch and it comes right to life with no clanking.
 

coachgeo

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Thought I saw this somewhere....... so for future reference... the NPT port I spoke of in this thread IS the lowest block drain.... at least according to below post and it's picture.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...p-of-the-Day&p=1951538&viewfull=1#post1951538

BTW... if you have the plate shown in that post pic sticking out perpendicular to block..... Keep it. That is a heat shield that is perfect to use if you install a block heater.
 
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NV555

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Ely and Vegas Nevada
I put in a "New Zero Start 3500015 1000W 120 V Cat C7 3116 3124 Engine Block Heater. Cost was 50.00 on Flea Hey. <---Silly we have to do this !!!!

Anyway it was $50.00 working great. I fired up my FMTV at -1 deg F and started right up, just a minor amount of non burnt fuel.
 

aleigh

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Phoenix, AZ & Seattle, WA
Parked the truck overnight at -7 two nights ago. Starts right up, catches immediately, puffs a little smoke for 10 seconds and is good to go.

Start the truck this morning, 28 degrees, takes three long runs of the starter button to catch.

Go figure.
 
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