Bobbed Deuce

[cruzinz28]

This weekend I am beginning my project and had a few questions. Since there are plenty of bobbed deuces out there I am sure someone can help.

1. Can you install the M105a2 trailer bed on the frame, clear the back of the cab and still
have the first tandem line up center in the trailer wheel well? I'm sure I can move the
front tandem forward and back 1" or so and the original drive shaft work.

2. What is the easiest method to remove the rivits holding the plate to the stock spring
to the rear frame setup out?

3. How hard is it to re-plumb the rear brakes?

4. Any pictures of ypur project in any phase of your build would be greatly appreciated.
PM me for my email.

Thanks - Jesse

 

[comdiver]

1. No, The axle will need to be about 4 1/8" back or a little more. Measure! (twice)
2. Easy? I cut the heads off with a grinder, drilled a smaller hole in them and hit them with a drift and hammer. Some use a torch.I didn't want to because I was inside.
3. That is the easy part. You can reuse the Tees and hose. I am using a new rear hose and metal lines.

 

[Angus1]

do you need a trailer? i got an extra one I'm gonna get rid of

 

[beaubeau]

I have done 1 bob Deuce. The way I will do my next one is to Cut Frame ahead of Boegies and behind it. Do not have to deal with Rivets. That is what is Time consuming and aggrivating. I cut exactly 36ins from my frame. So if you measure ahead of Boegies and behind, you have plenty to play with. If you use a M105 bed , you will cut more than 36 inches. Measure so you place rear wheel axel centered to your M105 wheel well. Cut the front of frame and rear of frame and bring them together and weld. You don't have to remove Hitch, lights or anything else, just bring back to weld to the front of frame where U cut. . Remove brakelines from front boegie at the Rubber section, and save it. Hook the new Single axel back up to same line. Cut Electrical wires, But be sure to mark each wire for Re-spliceing. Then Bleed brakes, and you are off. If the drive shaft needs to be lenghtened. Sut it about 8inches from Rear, and find a smaller, or larger tube to slide over Shaft. Spot one end a little at a time. Slide rear section on, hook up to Rear axel then you can weld tube together. I have done this for years, NO Problem!!

 

[100dollarman]

I have done 1 bob Deuce. The way I will do my next one is to Cut Frame ahead of Boegies and behind it. Do not have to deal with Rivets. That is what is Time consuming and aggrivating. I cut exactly 36ins from my frame. So if you measure ahead of Boegies and behind, you have plenty to play with. If you use a M105 bed , you will cut more than 36 inches. Measure so you place rear wheel axel centered to your M105 wheel well. Cut the front of frame and rear of frame and bring them together and weld. You don't have to remove Hitch, lights or anything else, just bring back to weld to the front of frame where U cut. . Remove brakelines from front boegie at the Rubber section, and save it. Hook the new Single axel back up to same line. Cut Electrical wires, But be sure to mark each wire for Re-spliceing. Then Bleed brakes, and you are off. If the drive shaft needs to be lenghtened. Sut it about 8inches from Rear, and find a smaller, or larger tube to slide over Shaft. Spot one end a little at a time. Slide rear section on, hook up to Rear axel then you can weld tube together. I have done this for years, NO Problem!!

bb- you are an effen genius! I also have been thinking about how to bypass the rivet work. I was thinking of torching the plates off at the bottom of the frame and just leaving the plate and rivets on there. I like your idea of making 2 frame cuts.

 

[Offroadfabworks]

i do the same thing. ALOT easier. if using a 105 bed you can actually do a bob in 1-2 days .

but as far as the wire harness.. dont cut it. just fold it up and leave it intact. less problems to worry about. Just unhook it from under the cab. roll it back, cut truck, reweld and reinstall.

 

[beaubeau]

One more thing I do is use the Plates that hold the Torque rods in place . I use these under Diff. To put U-bolts throuhg. Use the with {OR} as Center Bolts. I would use Springs from a 21/2 ton trl. Much heavier and Bigger loads. I do understand most guys don't use Truck for work, so don't need heavy spring sets. I also cut and re-weld truck bed to length as desired. Good luck all, Phil

 

[comdiver]

The rivets are a real pain. If I was going to do it again, I would use a torch on the plates to remove the rivet heads and grind/drill the rest. I do a lot of welding, but I think it is a better job not to cut and weld the frame. When doing the project, measure, measure and measure.