Brake hard lines leaking

[HunterW]

Hey guys,

I'm in the process of replacing the entire brake system. After losing brakes on the road after first buying the truck, I decided that was a ride I'd rather not take again!

So I've got 6 all new wheel cylinders on, new master, new brake booster. In the process of starting to refill and bleed the system, I noticed the line going into the side of the booster (coming from master) and the line exiting the booster going to the proportioning block (mounted inside frame rail) were both leaking. They look to be properly flared and were tightened all the way.

Do I need new lines? Clean off slight surface rust? Re-flare if there's enough lines to do so?

The inside of the booster where the lines go do not look like a nipple type design to receive the hard line flare. (Sorry, don't know proper nomenclature) It instead looks to be chamfered toward the inside of the booster body?

Thanks guys!

Hunter

 

[yolner]

If you're tearing everything apart why not just do all your lines too?

25' of steel line is under $30 at any parts store. You need 5/16" and 1/4".
double flare kit another $30
rubber lines are probably around $80 for all of them on ebay

I'm doing this project this weekend because one of the lines along the frame blew out right after I replaced the master on my new deuce. Insantly I had 0 brakes. Took forever to clean the poo off the seat.

 

[AGE|kshaufl]

1st before you get flamed...Read the forums and Down Load the TM's:

Technical Manuals

Do not reuse the lines. If it blew out it is weak in more than one place.
Also, remember that this should be DOT 5 brake fluid. You Cannot Mix with DOT 3 or 4.
Also get yourself or build a Pressure Brake Bleeder.

Ken

 

[Katahdin]

I replaced all but two steel lines in mine, I used the 1/4" armored ones from NAPA already cut to length and flared with fittings. In retrospect the armored lines probably just trap moisture and debris making them rust faster, but they matched what was already there.

That said, it was a PITA to get the -> new <- lines to stop leaking at the fitting. After making sure there's no dirt in the flare or fittings you'll want to secure the square brass fittings with a good wrench or vice grips and give the fitting an extra amount of torque with a line wrench--only then did mine stop leaking.

 

[glcaines]

To properly tighten up the fittings without damaging them, you need a flare nut wrench set. If the fittings are clean and properly tightened, they will not leak.

 

[HunterW]

AGE, I searched and found nothing related to leaks at the booster fittings. It wasn't the lines that failed initially, it was a leaking master and wheel cylinders. The hard lines had no issue initially, only once everything was fit back together with new booster were they leaking. Both were torqued with a brake line wrench. No worries, only DOT5 is used.

Katahdin, what armored lines are you talking about? Did you find the pre-cut/flared lengths that you just had to bend? Fittings matched as well?

Thanks guys

 

[Katahdin]

Sorry for the belated reply, just noticed the question. Here are the NAPA brake lines I used, already cut and double flared with fittings. You just need to bend them.

Armored Wrap Brake Lines:
51" BK 8131198
30" BK 8131196