brass -> aluminum ->steel pipe/plumbing

[OPCOM]

OK the genset is not military, but it's on a military truck.

so.. The location of the oil drain plug on the engine is such that it makes a giant mess on the generator deck when removed. The generator engine has an aliminum block. The manufacturer sent me a pipe with metric threads on one end and American threads on the other end. The American side is the pipe nipple type. I think the metric side is ?? whatever it is. The idea is to put a stopcock/ball valve there, and a '90, and the oil will drain downwards through a hole I am to bore in the generator deck, into a bucket to be reclaimed.

The engine is aluminum, the pipe is steel, and the cock will be brass no doubt.

The contraption will be below the oil level.

The engine vibrates like a busted chainsaw. This must not come loose acidentally.

Where and how should I use the following:

1.) Teflon tape

2.) Some kind of loctite

3.) Teflon paste

4.) some other goop

5.) nothing

 

[WillWagner]

How long will the extension be? If the engine vibrates alot, and the extension is long, you could develop a crack at the engine side pipe threads. The added length will amplify the vibration and fail the pipe. If you used a flexible tube, that would be much better, secure the end of the extention to the gen set frame or a boss on the generator itself would be better so it vibrates at the same frequency. The sealant isn't what will stop it from comming loose, there is a torque for it. Sealant is there because liquids, pressures and vacuum have a way of finding a way through and around things. Teflon tape or paste will do the job, but I prefer a sealant made to seal oil/fuel like permatex #1 or #2.

ITW Devcon | Two of the most recognized brands in all of industry; Devcon® and Permatex®.

Take pics Patrick, I like seeing the projects you do

 

[Speddmon]

First, take a magnet to the oil pan and make sure if it's aluminum or steel, it's not very often you see an aluminum pan. Use a good Teflon paste on all the threaded connections (I would also make sure the threads are clean and grease/oil free). Be careful if the pan is aluminum you don't want to cross thread the fitting or over-tighten it. From your description I have to assume that the pan is the side with the metric threads on it for the pipe nipple they sent you.

Brass and aluminum are considered "self sealing" because they are softer than the steel pipe, but always use a good paste or you're just asking for trouble.

As far as the vibration is concerned, loctite is designed to "lock" threaded fittings not seal them so loctite is a no no. Just make sure the fittings aren't tight against something that will cause them to accidentally break off. ALL pipe threads in the kind of environment your describing will loosen up eventually, due to the temperature changes, the thermal expansion and contraction alone will cause them to get loose, not to mention the vibration. About the best you can do is glance at the fittings when you go around the generator and look for oil. Always check your oil level and tighten the fittings again if they get loose. Hopefully, with a good paste and tight fittings to begin with they should last for years before they get loose.

Not to contradict what WillWagneg said, but permatex is designed to make gaskets, not really seal threads...We use "Rector Seal" all the time at work and it's really good stuff. Designed to be flexible, slow drying so it's lasts a long time. If it can stand up in a steel mill it should do the job on a generator.

http://www.rectorseal.com/index.php?site_id=1&product_id=190

 

[Jake0147]

We do this to a lot of small engines for the landscapers at work.

Option one, my favorite, because the landscapers can understand it, so I don't have to finish what they start.
Teflon tape, and mechanically support anything over six inches, maybe a shade less with a ball valve. (we use pipe caps for less weight). Good vibration anchors can be made from a chunk of old truck mudflap. Route the pipe close to anything that's bolted firmly to the engine (not motor mount protected). Wedge the mud flap material under the pipe, and clamp over the top with a strap type pipe hangar.

Option B, I like for applications where the engine is mounted on isolators such that there is nowhere to anchor a suitable drain plug extension. I don't like it because the #&@&$%# landscapers will take the wrong end apart every time, and I don't understand why! If you can figure out the pipe, surely this is a no brainer... Prolly why they're landscapers, and not hydrogeoligists or something...
Carry the existing drain screw to a local hydraulic shop, they can adapt it to a standard JIC nipple (or any other connector style you like for that matter). Run a hydraulic hose from the new adapter to wherever you'd like it to drain, and purchase a plug for the hose. The hose must also be anchored, and may EVENTUALLY need replacement before the metal tube, but it will definatily outlast an unsupported metal tube many times over. And at low pressure, when the metal cracks, if it's in the pan it's not so bad, but if the pipe cracks where the thread is cut (which is getting more and more common with less and less material being used wherever a manufacturer can get away with it...) the whole thing goes at once and it's all but wide open. Hydraulic hose, should it ever leak, will be a slow weap at worst, and needn't cause an alarm when it's discovered, other than to schedule a replacement when it's convenient for you.