Build update

[corelokt]

Dual alts to both cs144 types is done. All of my mounts on both sides and the passenger side tensioner was used, 97 inch belt.
ARP Ford pinto head studs were used in the bottom end of the block. ARP head studs in the top.
I ported and matched the exhaust manifolds to the heads. I'm running a 4l80 with a Quick Shift 4 computer and a Dakota tach signal box to use the alternator signal for the shift computer. Found a 91 np205 t case with the signal output on it. Lokar bench seat floor shifter. Didn't get the twin sticks or upgraded u joints done. Haven't tried the wmi yet and am only running 5 psi boost until I get it all together right. Still got wiring and some fuel plumbing to redo.

 

[doghead]

Thanks for starting yet another thread on this stuff.

 

[corelokt]

I do get bored when the weather keeps me in.

 

[doghead]

Maybe when I get bored, I'll merge your hodge-podge of threads into one big lump.

They will be just as hard to follow, but if someone were to try to make sense of them, they would not have to look all over the forums.

 

[corelokt]

Feel free.

 

[corelokt]

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Da...327_171446379_zpsmur0f3bk.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Da...327_171402386_zps28cfw8xx.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Da...327_171324154_zpssczojlyu.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Da...327_171334587_zpskgsb2lcv.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Da...327_171305399_zpstas0jxex.jpg.html?sort=3&o=7

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Da...327_171241739_zps01u6duef.jpg.html?sort=3&o=9

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Da...27_171236310_zpsz6lrsfuq.jpg.html?sort=3&o=10

 

[rustystud]

Feel free.

I am curious. Why do you always start a new thread instead of putting your new information in your original thread ? It seems you want to share what your doing so why make it so hard for anyone to follow you ?

 

[corelokt]

It honestly never occured until pointed out to me. That's why I added pictures to this one and not another post.

 

[Sharecropper]

I am curious. Why do you always start a new thread instead of putting your new information in your original thread ? It seems you want to share what your doing so why make it so hard for anyone to follow you ?

Roger that!

 

[corelokt]

Today I was redoing the fuel lines, pumps etc. Putting in the 30r16, I think I got that right, rated fuel line.
Found the fuel tank selector valve was no good. Never was either.
It's the made in China black plastic with six ports, multi terminal plug from Amazon / eBay and everywhere else for 60 to 90 dollars type.
I opened it up, the electric switch parts are about as strong as cheap beer can material. The plastic selector parts weren't much better. I'm looking at WVO solenoid, two way valves instead. It'll take two for supply and return routing. I'd go with a 6 port fuel rated ball valve if not for the fuel pumps I have for each tank. I'd have to turn the valve and remember to toggle the switch, and which way the switch goes for what way the valve is, etc. I'd screw it up at the worst time and have an empty tank or run the lines empty of fuel.
Well, day later. I ordered two 3 port tank valves as the others were $150.00

 

[corelokt]

I've got the 2 micron fuel filter in, plumbed in a transmission bypass filter, and put in the 30r14 fuel line everywhere I could get at without having to drop a tank or pull the intake.
Did a bunch of wiring. Added a 150a breaker, and a continuous 150a relay to power all my "key on" stuff. I have it all running to a mtm box where I have relays and fuse boxes and a couple 50 amp breakers to power another two fuse boxes inside, one always hot and one "key on".
All the relay circuits are powered by the first two fuse boxes. I have 20 relay circuits, with 6 still empty.
Now I'm working inside it, on gauges mostly.

 

[corelokt]

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Da...424_130136751_zpsfy3i71xr.jpg.html?sort=3&o=4

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Da...424_130210745_zpsdauyg3nz.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Da...424_130216603_zpsbhmvq5p7.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Dadsta_Gunsta/media/IMG_20170424_130310390_zpskzktj6xv.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://s854.photobucket.com/user/Dadsta_Gunsta/media/IMG_20170424_130147694_TOP_zpsariimmrd.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

 

[doghead]

Please attach photos, (not use links).

 

[corelokt]

It's my Android phone. I don't have any posting options.

 

[doghead]

Well,try to figure something out, it's the rules.

Maybe try posting in the website help forum.

 

[patracy]

Click on the paperclip under advance editor to upload direct.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk

 

[corelokt]

I got a picture to attach, but can't repeat the feat.

 

[corelokt]

Think I found someone local to do the timing. Looks like upping the fuel and boost is coming.
Still tuning the shifting and buttoning up as I look for that flywheel cover and parts.
Bought a new isspro pyro boost gauge, haven't tried it yet. Also got a multi tester coming that has millivolt output. Going to test my previous two pyro gauges before I junk them.
Other than that, a few leaks to fix and maybe it's good?

 

[corelokt]

Switch panel is in. A dptt center off for accessory, from either battery or ignition to my outlets and other switches. Pull for map light LEDs under the switches. Two more dptt co switches I can turn on or from say for the hi beams or rev lights for my light bars. The cooling fans and water methanol injection are negative switched and either I or a temp switch can switch on the fans. If I turn on the wmi it still has a boost solenoid beyond that to trigger it. I have another pull switch for floor lighting, then the fuel tanks switch.
Each switch except the wmi has two color coded LEDs to tell me what position I have the switch in. The wmi has one, as it is off or on.
Most of the switches, except accessory andthe inside lights, go to the relay box I posted earlier. All the switches can be removed via a small 6 pin plug soldered to the micro dpdt ones, or screws. The whole panel goes through a 16 pin computer connection to the cable that goes to the relays.
The relay box is also modular in that I can unplug it the same way, plus some 8 gauge 2 pin power connections.
Many days with a soldering gun, shrink tubing etc, to get it just right. Sprayed the switches with plasti-dip and secured the LEDs with black silicone.
Tested out my pyro gauges with a new toy. Multimeter with a Millivolt output.
Both were good. Two bad thermocouples in a row I guess.
Isspro is exchanging the third gauge I had bought new for a tach and hour meter to match my older pyro boost combo gauge. Coudos to Isspro and Jennifer at the retail desk.

 

[someoldmoose]

" Sum men, ya jist . . . cain't . . . reach "