Buying an M1009 - Need Advice From Pros!

[DXTAC]

Good Afternoon Everyone -

My name is Derek and I am new to this forum as I am a convert! I am in the process of selling my 97 JeepTJ Wrangler and buying an M1009. I haven't driven a 1009 since 1989 when I was in the Army stationed at Griffiss AFB in upstate NY. I was sent for my duece and 1009 license training then 6 months later our entire unit switched to 5 tons and Hummers!

I am selling the TJ as we need a vehicle that can haul the twin six year olds, the wife, the Weimeraner and all the gear camping with. The Jeep was alot of fun but no longer practical. We have a small pop-up camper with a tongue weight of about 100lbs and overall weight of about 1200.

My question is where are the nuance areas of the 1009's besides the tailgates and floor boards? Where should I look for corrosion and wear and tear beyond the obvious? Jeeps have been my thing for a loong time but the 1009's are new territory. I am buying from a dealer in Northern Illinois called MotorSourceinc.com. They claim they never receive crap and inspect the rides before they buy them. Their asking prices are around $3850. HERE are some of their past vehicles. They claim they never accept vehicles with rust.

I am looking forward to gently picking some of your brains in the near future and I appreciate any feedback you may have!!

Thanks in an advance,

Derek

 

[Wolf.Dose]

Afer about 16 years with a M1009 I can state the following: inspect ALL cab mounts very carefully. Everything that looks strange to you is wrong. They just rotten away in a 20 years or more period if time.
The pics clearly tell the story of repainted chassis, for for the Arms they did not see an original colour cover, which I do know from the first M1009 which I saw in January 1985 in Colmar/France during the Parade of 40 years of freedom from the Nazi terror.
Those were the first with model year E in the VIN.
What is the transmission worth? Do the gears act as a lmited slip gearing or does the automatic trans shift propperly!
Are the Gens and the injection pump in a good shape?
There are many other things to look for to find a realy good one. The others cost a lot of money ÁND a corresponding period of repair.
Wolf

 

[TyJustice]

Here are a few threads on that subject.



http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/40309-take-me-cucv-school-3.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/32674-advice-buying-1st-m1009-gl-auction.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/31774-read-all-faqs-but-have-new-questions.html

 

[danochamp]

Heres a link to the truck. Looks alright to me, the bed is a little shady but then again it is the bed.

1984 Used Chevrolet M1008 D30 Pick-Up CUCV at Motorsource, Inc. in Highland Park, IL, IID 5422197

 

[DXTAC]

Well I found a clean 1009 from a private seller in Wisconsin and took the plunge! Motorsource is not getting any more CUCV's. I'm picking it up this Saturday! YAY! Rockers are tight, tailgate is rust free, mounts are great, floorboards are rust free and overall it looks great. The body has minor surface rust and only in a couple areas. Could probably be sanded and touched up easily. The engine and trans seem sound. No slipping in trans, knocking or unusual pops, squeaks, moans or groans from the engine. No leaks from the diffs, oil pan, trans pan, radiator or anywhere. I do have one question though, were all 1009's painted the camo pattern or were some painted the solid OD Green for Navy, USAF etc.? This one is a solid color. Attached are a couple of pics.

Thanks,

Derek

 

[Warthog]

Great looking truck. The CARC was fresh in '07.

I have seen the painted green and camo from the factory.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Looks like a good score.

 

[Oldsouthernboy]

Just a note take it to a alinement shop, they well check it and find if you need need ball joints or tie rod ends.. if good and tight set the toe in, and run the road