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Bypassing Glow Plug Ignition Card,, and a tick.

Roc Rat

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Hello,,, new to the site and know this has probably been discussed before. I've heard that the card can be bypassed, but not that familiar with the search process here. Can anyone post a link to this information. I have a 1986 M 1009 that runs pretty good. I'd like to make it as reliable as possible.

Ive also got a tick coming from one of the cylinders,, through investigation I've read that it might be one of the injectors. I purchased a re manufactured set of injectors,, just wondering if anyone has an opinion on this before I proceed. Any feed back appreciated,, thanks.
 

dependable

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Lots of info on glow plug questions in CUCV stickys, FEQ, TMs and previous posts.

The other common source of 1 cylinder tick is valve lifter. Sometimes a few oil changes will fix that. Might as well replace the injectors first if you have already bought them, probably do the truck good anyway.
 

acmunro

Member
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Location
Reynoldsville,PA
When I convert to push button glow plugs on the CUCV's I use a piece of circuit board (I picked mine up at Radio Shack).
I put a couple contacts on the end and attach wires to the contacts.
Then I run the wires to a momentary push button.
Ground the other contact on the push button.
Push the card in the slot.
Now you have push button glow plugs and didn't have to cut any of the trucks wiring or change anything on the truck.
Down the road if you want to put the card back in unplug your mod and plug the new card in.
Not sure if this is already on the site.
I will be making a few this week. I'll take some pics.
Good Luck.
 

Warthog

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The way the stock GP system works is this:

When the key is on, 12v is supplied to the GP relay coil at all times. When needed the the GP controller will "turn on" the ground wire and the relay energizes. At the relay the small pink wire is the 12v supply and the small blue wire is the ground.

All that you need to do is supply a ground path for the relay.
Many will add a manual switch with one side going to the small blue wire at the relay and the other to ground.

No need to remove the controller card to do this.

the above post does the same thing but replaces the controller card with a homemade one. He supplies a ground path to the small blue wire via the controller housing.

have you downloaded the free tech manuals? The wiring diagrams are in the appendix.
 

Roc Rat

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Brant Lake, NY
I'll have to check the manuals out in more depth,, I'm working with an I pad mini,, not too much storage there. That sounds like the easiest fix yet,, thanks. There is so much here at this site. It's gonna take some exploring.
 

Warthog

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Here is a quick wiring diagram for the GP system with the manual switch added.

E-7 - GP Manual switch.jpg
 

Warthog

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The GP relay is the unit next to the master cylinder. The stock unit really doesn't have issues unless it is old and the internal contacts are carboned up.

If you replace it, it must NOT use the housing as a ground for the coil. If you do use the wrong type then the relay will be energized all the time and burn out the glowplugs in a very short time.

Read all the stickies in the CUCV forum. They answer many of your questions.
 

Roc Rat

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Brant Lake, NY
So that is where you add the wire that will lead to the manual glow plug switch?

I'm looking at the manual,, is there anyplace that sells the paper manual,, I'm fond of turning actual pages.
 

Warthog

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That is one place I have added the wire for the GP manual switch.

Fleabay usually has the paper manuals. Be aware that some sellers don't say and they ship you a CD with the free PDF manuals

You might also contact rapcoparts.com. They have had CUCV paper manuals in the past.
 

doghead

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The light blue wire is 18 ga, I would use some 14 ga because it's readily available and works well with normal size(blue)(what I guess most people have around)crimp fittings. 18 is pretty small to work with and would require smaller connectors(red) than most people probably don't have on hand.
 
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