Cab electronics (24v, 12v, 110 AC & lighter port)

[TacticalDoc]

I have read a few posts about this and wanted to run this by the hive before spending the funds.
I'm starting a new project on my M-923 cab. At this point I'm gathering information and supplies.
Here's the plan:

24 volt batt (with battery tender) as the main power supply to 24v fuse box.
The 24v fuse box is then feeding power to 3 items:

1. 24v toggle switch panel - which will supply my 24v cab fan and 24v IR Lights

2. Pure sine wave inverter (2000 watt 24v to 110 ac) for anything I want to plug in

3. 24v to 12v Power step down to a 12v fuse box. This fuse box will supply 2 cigarette lighter outlets and 6 toggle switches.

The items I need to power are:

IR lights (flat and round ones) 24v
Dash fan x2 24v
53" LED Light bar 12v
Small LED lights at back and side of bed 12v
Go lights 12v
CB radio 12v
Ham Radio 12v
Caution lights 12v
Dome light 12v

I plan on putting relays between the switches and some of the items I'm powering.

 

[TacticalDoc]

PS the one post I read said to use a 12v pure sign wave inverter after converting 24v to 12v. However, my understanding is that it's better to convert 24v to 110ac than 12v to 110.

I know I don't need a 2000watt inverter but I figured that's what coms out of a standard house plug

on second thought I may not install or buy a pure sign wave inverter...I think I'll just spend the money on a diesel generator

 

[tennmogger]

Check out a UPS that runs off a 24v battery. Many larger UPS (uninterruptable power supply) boxes run on 24v. They often junked when the batteries go bad. Throw out the bad batteries, feed the UPS 24v from the truck, don't plug in the AC to the UPS, and it runs in emergency mode putting out 110v AC. The more expensive units, like Best, have nice sinewave output. When you are back at the shop plug in the AC plug and the UPS tries to recharge it's batteries (now the truck batteries). By limiting the charge current you can keep your truck's batteries topped up.

Bob
WB4ETT

 

[papakb]

cab electronics

TacticalDoc,

Power converts and power inverters are pretty much the same beast the difference being in their outputs. The key word is power though. In a perfect world an inverter taking 24VDC to 110VAC at 2Kw requires half the power needed to take 12VDC to 110AC assuming the inverter is 100% efficient. So there's no reason to use a regulator to drop the 24V to 12V then feed it to the inverter other than 12V inverters are more common than 24V inverters because more of them are available. Personally I would go the simpler route. Run 24VDC battery power to a 24V inverter and keep the entire 12VDC system separate.

One of the best battery maintainers is made by a company called VANNER. You can find them commonly on auction sites in 60 and 100 amp variants. The Vanner system connects across the 24V batteries and allows you to safely tap off 12V for use without jeopardizing your electrical system. It will monitor your batteries and make sure you don't kill the low side battery. Another common mistake this system avoids is the guy who connects his 12V stuff across the high side battery and then grounds it. Great way to burn up electronics by letting the magic smoke out.

Kurt
KG6KMJ

 

[TacticalDoc]

Im not going to run a pure sine inverter since they are so expensive and I have a generator for anything I need to plug in
Im running a 10ga wire from the battery to a blue sea fuse box which will supply 24v and then a 24v to 12v step down inverter to another fuse box for 12v
seems simple and safe

 

[3dAngus]

I bought a used Vanner battery equalizer on your favorite auction site for $100 shipped and it is rated at a 50 amp output. You will never use that, but can use it safely using an equalizer which will help suck out and recharge power from both your batteries 24v system equally without damage. If you ever needed 12 v at 50 amps you better have your engine running while using it or you might end up with some dead batteries rather quickly.
Pure sine wave is the ONLY way to go. I would never buy a modified sine wave converter unless I went to Wal Mart and got a cheap $50 unit for minimal useage. Modified sine waves are crapola, but as you are not going to use anything but a gen set, you are OK. Get an oscilloscpoe and monitor the output of the genset on a one time basis to make sure you have a decent output waveform without a lot of noise on it, the number one cause of heat, which is the number one cause of catastropheric failure in your precious electronics. You want a nice clean waveform.
Good luck. Sounds like fun.

 

[TacticalDoc]

are you talking about a battery isolator? I thought an isolator was for two 12 volts in parallel but I guess you can use it for series too

or a battery tender?

I'm planning on getting a tender for it when its sitting
I drive my truck at least 2 or 3 times a month

 

[3dAngus]

I don't think anyone knows who you are talking to in your last post because you did not "reply with quote".
I am going to send you a PM with more info on a battery equalizer I have, made by Vanner, and you can read the specs on it online using google.

 

[TacticalDoc]

I don't think anyone knows who you are talking to in your last post because you did not "reply with quote".
I am going to send you a PM with more info on a battery equalizer I have, made by Vanner, and you can read the specs on it online using google.

sounds good thanks

 

[3dAngus]

A battery equalizer is recommended if you want to use any 12vdc cigarette lighter for your GPS, laptop, or cell phone recharger.
They are usually low current applications but you still want to draw the current from both batteries equally and this is the safest way to do it.

I would use a genset if I had any high power application that would use a lot more current.

 

[TacticalDoc]

A battery equalizer is recommended if you want to use any 12vdc cigarette lighter for your GPS, laptop, or cell phone recharger.
They are usually low current applications but you still want to draw the current from both batteries equally and this is the safest way to do it.

I would use a genset if I had any high power application that would use a lot more current.

I'm going to have cigarette lighter plugs but they will not run off one battery. it will run off the fuse box coming from a step down converter from 24v