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Can I Cap Off Cab Airbags?

Third From Texas

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Both bags are blown on the '94 that just followed me home.

I'll be fabricating the solution later, but for now I just want to cap them off/bypass.

Any tips on where best to tackle it (just quick and dirty)?

Can I just kill the feed at the switch in the panel or loop something?
 

Third From Texas

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Yes, but then I still get a leak that appears to coming from the back of the switch at the control panel.

I should have mentioned that part. I suspect the either the switch is buggered as well or there is a break in the line in.

I never had to mess with air ride issues on my first truck, and my A1R doesn't have the system for me to compare things.

The TM hasn't been much help in pointing me to where I can just cap it off. I don't want to cap the air supply from the tank as the tire and cab lifts are fine.

Thanks for the reply, though.
 

Mullaney

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Charlotte NC
Yes, but then I still get a leak that appears to coming from the back of the switch at the control panel.

I should have mentioned that part. I suspect the either the switch is buggered as well or there is a break in the line in.

I never had to mess with air ride issues on my first truck, and my A1R doesn't have the system for me to compare things.

The TM hasn't been much help in pointing me to where I can just cap it off. I don't want to cap the air supply from the tank as the tire and cab lifts are fine.

Thanks for the reply, though.
Bummer... Today I took a few minutes and went outside to look at the lift for my spare on my M1088. Decided to lower it to the ground and see how it functioned.

Got it most of the way there. Hanging out over the side of the truck, then I noticed that it was "stuck" on the (factory) tool box. Raised it back up a little and it swung free - hanging from the chain.

The crummy part is that I started smelling burnt oil. Looked up behind the tire and about dead center of the truck was a steady drip of what appears to be hydraulic oil. I guess that is the next thing I need to look at.

I almost find it hard to imagine that we could ever go kick somebody's butt that needs it. If these trucks leak and moan and groan and whine this much when they are in active service - we would need twice the men and trucks - just to be able to have a few that function...
 

Third From Texas

Well-known member
2,713
6,364
113
Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Bummer... Today I took a few minutes and went outside to look at the lift for my spare on my M1088. Decided to lower it to the ground and see how it functioned.

Got it most of the way there. Hanging out over the side of the truck, then I noticed that it was "stuck" on the (factory) tool box. Raised it back up a little and it swung free - hanging from the chain.

The crummy part is that I started smelling burnt oil. Looked up behind the tire and about dead center of the truck was a steady drip of what appears to be hydraulic oil. I guess that is the next thing I need to look at.

I almost find it hard to imagine that we could ever go kick somebody's butt that needs it. If these trucks leak and moan and groan and whine this much when they are in active service - we would need twice the men and trucks - just to be able to have a few that function...
The good news is that you can get a rebuild kit for the hydraulic pump for about $70 (it may be less, the Facebook LMTV FMTV Military Trucks group has a link in their knowledge base to the kit or just ask someone on there if they can point you in the right direction). I think it's still sold by the civilian manufacture, so not surplus so not a $1000 kit because "supply/demand/rare". LOL There are videos on YouTube that walk you thru it. Pretty simple stuff.

And yeah, I've *yet* to see an LMTV that use and age didn't blow the rubber seal in there. Very common and most everyone has either done that repair or will. You'll be good for another 10years+ once you rebuild it.
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,526
19,364
113
Location
Charlotte NC
The good news is that you can get a rebuild kit for the hydraulic pump for about $70 (it may be less, the Facebook LMTV FMTV Military Trucks group has a link in their knowledge base to the kit or just ask someone on there if they can point you in the right direction). I think it's still sold by the civilian manufacture, so not surplus so not a $1000 kit because "supply/demand/rare". LOL There are videos on YouTube that walk you thru it. Pretty simple stuff.

And yeah, I've *yet* to see an LMTV that use and age didn't blow the rubber seal in there. Very common and most everyone has either done that repair or will. You'll be good for another 10years+ once you rebuild it.
That is definitely good news sir! I have a puddle under the center of the truck about the size of a Frisbee. Not awful, but definitely in need of a fix. THANKS for the pointer. At least I have an idea where to start looking. And the good news really is too. It will be nice to fix something for under a hundred bucks excluding the free labor :) (me).

Think I will go sign up for that group on FB now while it is fresh on my mind!

.
 
Last edited:

coachgeo

Well-known member
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Location
North of Cincy OH
That is definitely good news sir! I have a puddle under the center of the truck about the size of a Frisbee. Not awful, but definitely in need of a fix. THANKS for the pointer. At least I have an idea where to start looking. And the good news really is too. It will be nice to fix something for under a hundred bucks excluding the free labor :) (me).

Think I will go sign up for that group on FB now while it is fresh on my mind!

.
would think you could pull a line off the back of the control box that feed the air bag turn valve...... (air in / air out) and cap the air in line after you remove it. Look on back.... they may be labeled in and out.
 
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