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Changed a D to a C turbo, a few questions?

ccf460

Member
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granite falls/N.C.
As the title states, I changed to a C turbo, also at the same time ran the truck out of fuel, DUHHHH.
Anyone notice a change in smoke output when going to a C ?
Performance change?
Fuel economy?
I seem to be using more fuel all the sudden, and smoking alot more. Power seems the same. I am wondering if I did in my already leaking IP by running it dry, causing the smoke/ fuel issues? Or maybe I am just stabbing the go pedal more just to hear it......
Also, I do have some kind of big truck muffler, was on the truck when I bought it, do the C turbos respond differently to mufflers than D turbos?
 

welldigger

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Benton LA
Your probably just hitting to go pedal harder. However, the "C" does put out LESS cfm than the "D". This could theoretically cause more smoke. What color is the smoke?

Running the IP dry can damage the HH on the IP but that usually causes starting/running problems.
 
Last edited:

machinist75

Member
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Location
Murphy, TEXAS
I noticed a slight change in power, not much. Turned up the fuel about half a turn and got it back to where it was. I believe the "c" has about one pound of boost less than the "d". It's not good to run them out of fuel, bad on the o rings. Ask Patracy about running the hydrolic head o rings dry. Bad things happen.
 

ccf460

Member
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Location
granite falls/N.C.
The smoke is black. Does a high pressure head leak as a sign of impending failure? My IP is soaked in fuel, actually has been since I bought it, seems to be coming from the the top, where the injector lines attach. Tried to tighten the fuel lines, but they seemed fine.
 

welldigger

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Well I don't know if it being soaked in fuel is a sign of impending failure but a hot engine soaked in fuel is not good. The leak is probably from the center bolt on the HH. There are many threads in the deuce forum covering this.
 

rosco

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Delta Junction, Alaska
Several turbo, Points of Observation:

Boost matters. But our Deuces are older designed engines. As a Kid, I remember the diesel trucks pulling Grapevine Hill - they all smoked/at night, you could see fire at the tops of their stacks. The turbos that I am familiar with, have bushings/no seals, and they rely on differiential pressure to not leak lube oil. If they leak oil, most often, its internally, on the intake side, so the oil is consumed by they engine. On the incedental side, a failing turbo can cause increased oil consumtion, smoke, with some loss of power, and even a run away engine. Outright failuer can cause all of the above, but more advanced, along with turbine vane shedding which leads to digestion problems for the engine. I once lost a turbo on a large detroit engine, but caught it where there was far too much smoke/sever power loss & turbine vane distortion, and major oil consumption. Lucky - just had to replace turbo.

Turbos are neat, mostly trouble free, but not to be taken for granted!
 

m-35tom

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eldersburg maryland
I noticed a slight change in power, not much. Turned up the fuel about half a turn and got it back to where it was. I believe the "c" has about one pound of boost less than the "d". It's not good to run them out of fuel, bad on the o rings. Ask Patracy about running the hydrolic head o rings dry. Bad things happen.
there are no 'O' rings associated with pumping fuel, but as the HH piston is solely lubed and cooled by fuel, no fuel is very hard on them.
 

m-35tom

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what you describe would be from too much fuel, something a failing IP would not do. you really need to get a pyrometer on it to make any kind of conclusion about power / fuel rate.
 

patracy

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Yup, going from a D to a C turbo would be a downgrade in performance due to the CFM. I went from a C to a D and noted an improvement. (And I can hear myself think)

Do not run the fuel system dry and keep on trying to push it. No fuel = no lube for the HH plunger. I killed mine in about a quarter mile downhill pass where I just forced it to keep spinning over.
 

ccf460

Member
327
1
18
Location
granite falls/N.C.
Took the truck out for a little drive today, seems to be running,starting, accelerating as normal. Today the smoke looked a little more grayish?
Today was a little bit brighter of a day, it could have been the same yesterday ,but overcast skies made it look darker. I noticed it does not smoke
much at cruising speed of 2000 rpm. It smokes a fair amount when running through the gears, and really clouds the road when lugging up a hill.
 

ccf460

Member
327
1
18
Location
granite falls/N.C.
Also noticed, while looking around under the hood, the air filter is pretty dirty. This might be magnifying the problem.
I have spent the last 30 minutes doing searches on the "best" air filter, boy what a **** storm those threads turn into!
It seems the K&N sends more air, but filters less dirt. Paper elements less dirt and less air. I did see a member who mounted
a large 5 ton looking filter housing on the fender, is this the best of both worlds? Large paper filter, out in the cool ambient temp?
 

welldigger

Active member
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Location
Benton LA
Also since you mention k&n there are a few points to know. If you run on the road 99% of the time and do not live in a dusty area then they are GREAT! However if you do a lot of off roading then they suck tha cack. All of my road vehicles have k&n filters and after several hundred thousand miles between them I have zero problems and better fuel economy. However on my ATV I avoid k&n like the plague. They WILL allow fine dust particles through once enough dust has caked on the filter drying out the oil. I have seen freshly rebuilt ATV engines begin to smoke after a few hours of riding. Upon autopsy we discovered the k&n filter was dry and the intake passages after the filter were lined with a layer of fine powder.

Basically on road = K&N good.
Off road = K&N bad.
 

ccf460

Member
327
1
18
Location
granite falls/N.C.
I was looking at my filter, and don't think it is OEM. It looks like a napa filter or something. The OEM filters seem to have less pleats. I did see an NOS filter on fleabay and was considering it over a napa style due to the washability. Anyone have input on the flow attributes of the stock vs. napa?
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
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38
Location
Benton LA
From what I understand the OEM filter flows considerably more than anything except maybe the k&n. OEM vs. Napa/wix I believe there is about a 50 to 100 cfm flow difference.
 
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