Two things that are worth their weight in gold are a clutch alignment tool, to make sure the disc is centered before bolting the pressure plate down; and a 1/2" NF (check to make sure my memory of the size is right) bolt about 7" or 8" long with the head ground off.
If for some reason you need to pull the flywheel (flywheel needs resurfacing or you decide to throw in a fresh rear main seal as long as you're that deep into the engine); take out one of the flywheel bolts near the top of the circle of the crank flange and replace it with the extended "stud". When you start to pull the flywheel it'll slide out on the stud to where you can get a better grip on it, rather than having it end up in your lap. Vice-grips on the end of the stud will keep the flywheel from sliding off until you want it to.
Catch a 100# plus flywheel and you'll end up singing in the church choir, but in the little girls's section.
Another thing to remember is to mark all parts with a paint dot so that it all goes back together right. Flywheels are timed-- only go on one way, because two of the bolt holes are a 1/16" or so off from the rest of them, in order to keep the engine in balance.