SasquatchSanta
New member
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- Location
- Northern Minnesota
I don't normally leave the house when there is a two inch wide swath of ice across the bottom of the inside of my living room windows but lately I've formed a habit of going into town on Saturday mornings to have breakfast at the local eat 'em up. You've all seen 'em --- those small town restaurants with a big round table where the local gentry gathers early in the morning to tell lies about and ice fishing and deer hunting or bitch about the economy or politics. I've got to be careful doing this because I might lose my hermit status.
I didn't check the thermometer before leaving so when the old flathead in my M37 fired up with little fuss I didn't think too much about the temperature until I tried to turn the steering wheel. I also noticed that I had to work with the clutch a little more than usual in letting it out without killing the engine. The steering wheel was next to impossible to turn. I had to made 7 or 8 stabbs to back out of my driveway and onto the road without hitting my mailbox or running off the road. The ****ed steering wheel didNOT want to turn! Finally, after I got the truck out on the road and lined up in the right direction I ran in low gear for about a half mile and moved the steering wheel back and forth a little at a time (about two inches) until I finally got the grease in the steering knuckles freed up enough to navigate the wide sweeping 90 degree turn onto the main road.
When I got into the cafe I learned that the temp was somewhere 35 and 38 below zero. This is the first time I've driven the M37 when it was this cold since rebuilding the front axle assembly. I've got to figure out something to do to get it to steer easier and while I'm at it I might as well address the transmission, transfer case and differentials.
I used a white multi-purpose low temp (NLGI No. 2EP) grease when I packed the steering nuckles. The steering box as well as all the other gear boxes and differentials are running straight 80-90.
Has anybody got any suggestions for the steering knuckles? I can't very well put ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil in the knuckles because it would run out. When I rebuilt the front axle assembly I installed timken bearings on the top and bottom on the spindles. I figured timkens on both the top and bottom versus having a brass bushing on the top would make it wasier to steer? I was told the only reason for the brass bushing on the top instead of a timken was to accomodate air drops.
Lets talk lubrications.
I didn't check the thermometer before leaving so when the old flathead in my M37 fired up with little fuss I didn't think too much about the temperature until I tried to turn the steering wheel. I also noticed that I had to work with the clutch a little more than usual in letting it out without killing the engine. The steering wheel was next to impossible to turn. I had to made 7 or 8 stabbs to back out of my driveway and onto the road without hitting my mailbox or running off the road. The ****ed steering wheel didNOT want to turn! Finally, after I got the truck out on the road and lined up in the right direction I ran in low gear for about a half mile and moved the steering wheel back and forth a little at a time (about two inches) until I finally got the grease in the steering knuckles freed up enough to navigate the wide sweeping 90 degree turn onto the main road.
When I got into the cafe I learned that the temp was somewhere 35 and 38 below zero. This is the first time I've driven the M37 when it was this cold since rebuilding the front axle assembly. I've got to figure out something to do to get it to steer easier and while I'm at it I might as well address the transmission, transfer case and differentials.
I used a white multi-purpose low temp (NLGI No. 2EP) grease when I packed the steering nuckles. The steering box as well as all the other gear boxes and differentials are running straight 80-90.
Has anybody got any suggestions for the steering knuckles? I can't very well put ATF or Marvel Mystery Oil in the knuckles because it would run out. When I rebuilt the front axle assembly I installed timken bearings on the top and bottom on the spindles. I figured timkens on both the top and bottom versus having a brass bushing on the top would make it wasier to steer? I was told the only reason for the brass bushing on the top instead of a timken was to accomodate air drops.
Lets talk lubrications.
. it will be interesting to see what we come up with