Could really use some help with my painting!!

[deuceman51]

Well I just got my gillespie primer from 2nd armor and got the painting itch. The only problem is i'm not an expert and I would really like to know how you guys out there do it. What do you use to thin the primer, how many coats, do you sand between coats? Any help in how you prep the surface and other tips would really be appreciated. The other prob I have is that I still haven't decided on my paint color. I have a 1951, and a 1954 m135/m211. Rapco and AJP say that WWII semi gloss is for korea, but when I hold up my paint samples, they look lighter than what's on the truck. I just got some 24087 and I will try that too. What do you think is correct paint for these trucks. Thanks in advance.

 

[Tony]

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The following is what I submitted to you at a earlier time, if that didn't help you, do you have a specific question..I reduced my Gillespie paint with Xylene,
By the way AJP and RAPCO are correct on the color.



deuceman51,
Thought that I should add more info which may help you..I did quite a bit of research on this and my conclusion was to use Gillespie paint and primer. I bought my paint from Army Jeep Parts, they have a web page which also gives some painting info.
I used WWII semigloss which is from late 1944 to 1957, my M-135 is a 1951
In discussions with them and the manufacture I would give you this info..After you sand blast and air clean wipe with a lint free cloth with lacquer thinner.Do not handle the parts with your bare hands , use gloves, your hands may contaminate the parts, which are susceptible to contamination at this point in your painting process..Do not delay for a excessive period of time from sandblasting to the prime coat.
Reduce the paint with a product and ratio as recommended by the manufacturer. This is very important.
It was suggested to me to prime 3 coats and top coat with three coats. When I painted , the weather was a warm sunny day and I primed all three coats the same day when each coat was dry,I resprayed.
I waited overnight for the prime coats to dry.The next day I sprayed the top coat, as this the way it was suggested to me. I did not scuff between prime coats nor top coats.
I painted my first two hubs this way..And they look great. Also I never sprayed enamel before , although I have sprayed lacquer many times. My lacquer sprayer is an HVLP unit, and I was advised not to use an a HVLP system. So I reverted to the conventional system with a Binks Gun.
Hope this helps you.


Tony Fucci
Camarillo, CA
MVPA
1950 M-38, USAF
1951 M-135 USA
1951 M-135

 

[deuceman51]

Thanks Tony,
I must have missed your last reply to me, sorry bout that. Do you also thin the primer when you apply it. Any chance I could see some pics of your trucks? Thanks again for the help, hope my first resto goes well.

 

[Tony]

deuceman51

Here goes, I will tell you what Gillespie told me..
1. Using a Binks gun, the tip should be .055 to .0070",, the binks spec is in mm so you would have to convert, my binks was in that range.
2. Use a systhetic enamel reducer--(this means a thinner)they suggested useing Xylene..start with 18 - 19 oz per gallon this is about a 15% mix the max is 26oz per gal which is 20% I had very good results with the 18-19 oz.
3. When you spray take a few prctice shots on a practice board to give yourself the fan and flow that you are looking for, too much it will run, too little dry as soon as it hits the surface, apply enough to wet it, if not wet , not enough paint.
4. after the metal is prepared, blow off the dust, then wipe with lint free cloth with paint thinner. DO NOT TOUCH WITH BARE HANDS it will contaminate.
5.If you sand blast, you should apply the first prime as soon as you can.
6 Recommend 3 coats of prime, I did not scuff between coats. I waited for at least 2 hours between coats of prime, it was dry and warm, humid conditions would be more waiting time. I applied the top coast the next day, here I waited four hours between coats. My spraying was done outside in a dry warm climate (So Calif) Humidity was less tha 50% and temp above 65 degrees.
7 The top coat is not as forgiven as the primer, so if you think you're a hot shot after the prime coat, be carful not to put too much on at a time with the top coat or it will run.
NOTE:I am not a paint pro, this is how I painted mine, so far I've painted and sand blasted four wheels an four hubs, They came out real good, I've paint sprayed before , but never enamel..so what I've out lined above is what I have done and it worked for me. I think its a good starting point for you,,Remember practice on some cardbord or somthing.
Forgot, strain the paint as you put it into your cup
The photos that I have of my trucks are as I bought them, with the exception of the wheels of course, but I think that I will put them on this site so you can see where I'm starting from. I'm doing a frame up restore on both of them.

By the way I will be in S.Dakota on Memorial day,, maybe I can see your deuce at that time.

Tony

 

[Tony]

OPPS, the tip should be .055 to .070" I put the decimal in the wrong place

 

[Longhunter7]

Tony!

Great information! <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_cool.gif" alt="Cool">

The members here all appreciate detailed information on projects like this!

If you have the time, maybe you could put together a "how to" presentation from start to finish for all us owners that are new to the CORRECT way to paint!

Keep up the good work! <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_thumzup.gif" alt="Thumb Up"><img src="speech/icon_speech_yes.gif" border="0">

 

[Tony]

Longhunter7,
I will try to get something together after the holidays, I see that I can insert a file, so I will do it in Word, and scan in with a sketch or two. Not to proficient on this computer business, but I'm trying