cracked rear brake drum m1009

[pinwormfood]

guys, do the rear brake drums crack on these? I have never had a drum brake vehicle before so I have no idea. When changing my rear brakes out, i notices these very little lines in the stopping surface of the drum that look like spots where the pads stopped and sat for a while. they hardly look like cracks, and I cannot get my thumbnail to catch on them. What I have noticed is that the drum in question, when stopped after driving some time, smells like brakes and seems to be pretty **** hot. I know it's not that I have the shoes adjusted to tight, i already backed them off some. I did not have the drum turned, there wasn't a machine shop open at the time.
another question is....does any one have a good drum???
or know of a good aftermarket? i read a review for the wagner ones that are sold at advanced auto...and they said it sucked.

thanks, pinwormfood

 

[Barrman]

I just looked at the Oreilly site. They have new drums for around $75.00 each.

Have somebody with a pair of drum calipers measure what you have. If they are too thin, then you have to buy new. If still thick enough, get them turned.

 

[DXTAC]

I did my brakes not that long ago and my shoes were worn into the rivets. I got my drums HERE at Saturn Surplus. Only $38.50 each plus shipping! Still saved a bunch over the parts stores.

Also, check the emergency brake. Mine cable was seized and I had a **** of a time trying to get the brakes back together, that is until I realized the line was seized. About 20 seconds with the hacksaw and all was good!!

Hope this helps!!

P.S. Also, find and punch the knock-outs out BEFORE you install the drums or it is a pain in the ARSE to see/find them later. You can buy some plugs at Classic Industries for a few bucks.

 

[transman]

If the truck sat for awhile with the park brake set it is not unusual to have a little surface etching where the shoes made contact with the drums. this is usually only 'surface deep' and will disappear with the first few brake applications.

 

[rlwm211]

brakes heating up

The possibility exists that your opposite rear wheel cylinder is not doing much if anything and the side that gets hot is the only one working. For what little the wheel cylinders cost, I would not spare that expense if there is any question about their integrity.

It was mentioned that an E brake cable can be the source of a heating drum. This is entirely possible. They are easy to check and replace when the drum is off.

You can lightly sand the drums with emery paper (400 grit or so) and just 'freshen' the surface. This helps the shoes seat and not glaze over due to a surface on a drum being glazed. I always do this if I replace shoes and am not machining the drums. I did this on my deuce on the corners where there had been leaky wheel cylinders after cleaning them. It cannot hurt if you use fairly fine sand paper.

Make sure the adjusters are free before reassembling the corner.

If your drums have a substantial ridge, you will have to have them turned, or else knock the adjuster holes out so you can properly adjust the brakes after reinstalling the drum. If you do not adjust the shoes after reinstalling the drum, you will have hot spots on the tops of the shoes and little else working otherwise.

Always clean the drum with brake cleaner or equivalent and blow it dry before putting the drum back on the vehicle. Get all the greasy hand prints off the shoes as well, and you can lightly sand them as well if need be. Remember all the cautions about flammable liquids and all that when you handle this stuff.

Hope this helps

RL