CUCV 6.2 swap into K20, should I keep it 24 Volts?

[fitz]

I bought my first CUCV back in 2009, right around the same time I blew up the motor in my Civy k20.
I have owned 17 CUCV's since then, while the k20 has sat inside untouched (with a blown motor).
I currently own 8 CUCV's (a clean M1028 and M1009) the rest are typical rusty New England parts trucks.
I'm thinking about swapping a 6.2 / turbo 400 / 208 from 1 of the CUCV's into the K20.
The k20 currently has a SB 400 with a Tuned Port Injection (swapped in with a Painless wiring harness) / turbo 350 / 205 transfer case.
My question is should I keep the stock 6.2 24 volt system? Most of my parts trucks have working 24V systems with nice clean, un hacked wiring harnesses. This way I could keep it all the way GM designed it, including the glow plug system.
The K20 is a no option truck, so it would basically be parking the 2 trucks side by side, and swapping the engine & under dash harness over. I would swap in the CUCV dash cluster as well. I would also install a CUCV steering column because it has the wiper switch on the directional stalk and the 81 k20 has the wiper switck on the dash.
While this may seem like a lot of work, nothing would have to be redesigned.
Does this seem like a better option then modifying the stock harness to work?
The K20 is a clean truck (frame off restoration about 15 years ago). The last thing I want to do is open the hood and see wires spliced in with butt connectors.
I have just about everything I need to pull this off. The only things I can think of that I need will be some modified M1008 driveshafts to work with the 6" lift. The exhaust will also be reworked (the truck has headers now).
I think this is the way to go.
Am I overlooking anything?
Thanks

 

[Westech]

Really no need to keep it 24V. The glow plug system is stand alone and is 12V. The glow plugs are powered by the 24-12V resistor, so if you take that out (and you should take that out on any CUCV anyway) the only thing that is 24V is the starter.
Just go 12V and be done with it.
Also if you are going to keep the starter 24V you will need to install the CUCV cab wiring with relays.

 

[Tow4]

The CUCV is all 12 volts other than the starter and glow plugs (through the resistor). I think since the K20 is originally a 12 volt truck, I would probably keep it that way. It's easy to convert the glow plugs to 12 volt operation and change the starter to 12 volt. Unless you need to have 24 volts for jump starting other vehicles there's no reason to stay with it.

Since you have everything to make it work electrically if you convert the K20 to 24 volts, it comes down to how much work you want to put in it.

 

[fitz]

It's not that I need the K20 to be 24 volts, I'm thinking it would just make for a cleaner install using factory wiring.
If I keep the k20 harness I will have to splice in wiring for the temp sensor, oil pressure, fast idle & fuel shut off.
Maybe I should start looking for a 6.2 12 volt engine harness.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Finding an engine harness or modding your painless harness will be far more rewarding down the road than trying to re-engineer a 12/24 system. I understand having multiple 24s on hand, but if the K20 is 12, leave it be... it will be far easier to find parts for locally than special ordering or trying to resurect an old Cucv part.... besides the starter, gen/alt, there really isnt anything on the engine that requires 24v. Like the above have said, the glow functions on a resister to tame it to 12v and the sensors, water, oil are farely cheap over the counter.... Just my two cents worth,,, just be glad your not trying to scab the wiring of a Common Rail Cummins or Power struggle into a late model chassis with all the electrical tom foolery.

 

[rchalmers3]

Sounds like an easy swap:
Shorten or extend existing gasser motor wires as needed.
Ignition coil power can be routed to the IP shutoff.
Swap in the oil and temp senders from the gasser into the 6.2.
Run a new GP circuit.
That should about do it.

Rick

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Sounds like an easy swap:
Shorten or extend existing gasser motor wires as needed.
Ignition coil power can be routed to the IP shutoff.
Swap in the oil and temp senders from the gasser into the 6.2.
Run a new GP circuit.
That should about do it.

Rick

The Ing coil wire will work for the 12v activation for the Inj pump, but as for the sending units... the water temp is fine from the gasser. but the 6.2 ran a heavier gauge sending unit for the added psi of the diesel. they are readily availible over the counter, just get the one for the gauge instead of the dummy light and youll be fine.