cucv from GL no start

[EO2NMCB]

Bought the m1009 from gl and have been unable to get it started. I installed a manual GP switch, have power at the plugs, but didn't have time to ohmn them out. Have read the troubleshooting in the TM 20 and 34 and did a search here on SS, not sure what I'm missing. Lift pump is good and fuel at the filter, the top of the IP at the shut off sol has fuel also. I pulled a line of the injector and it was wet, but didn't seem like a lot of fuel when cranking. I did also try a very small shot of starting fluid without using the glow plugs and it made a sound like spark knock on a gas motor, but would not start. How do you check the IP without doing the bench checks in the tm-34 or tell if its bad? Please help before its BFH time. It maybe a week or two before I can do more checks, since I'm a OTR driver.

thanks to all

 

[1stDeuce]

Big assumption, hopefully the IP in a 6.5L is roughly the same... I had a similar issue that turned out to be a failed solenoid. Pull the connector off the fuel shutoff solonoid (tall, round thing on the top of the pump) and check resistance. Mine was burned out, and hence was open circuit. That evidently results in perminent fuel shut off, and hence no start... A new solenoid fixed my issues for under $100.

Also, I've run mine out of fuel, and had to crack an injector and crank a bit, but it started pretty quickly after I cracked it, and I tightened it back down. Might have been just luck though. Sounds like you already did that.

Good luck!!
C

 

[EO2NMCB]

I should have put it in the above post, fuel shut off is getting power, and can hear it click.

 

[BobM]

I'd check the glow plugs individually first. I once bought a 6.2 that had brand new shiny glow plugs in it. I did a quick test of the circuit with a test light and the light came on. Several frustrating days later I checked the individual glow plugs and found the PO had "tested" each glow plug before install and burned out 7 of the 8!
New plugs made the engine purr like a kitten.

 

[superburban]

I agree with BobM. Also, dod what 1stdeuce suggested, except crack as many injectors as you can reach (loosen the injector line where they reach the top of the injector taking care not to loosen the top half of the injector from the nozzle). After cranking for about 5 seconds, get out and check for fuel weeping out of the loose fittings. If there is no fuel at the fittings, and you are 100% sure you have the air bled out of the supply side of the fuel system and you are 100% sure that your fuel shutoff valve is functional, then you have a bad IP.

I would bet that you have either 1) bad glow plugs, or 2) air in the IP.

 

[superburban]

Oh, yeah, and if after you do all of this and it still wont start, check the exhaust while cranking. Whitish/gray smoke that smells of raw fuel means low compression (assuming proper glow plug opperation).

 

[EO2NMCB]

ITS ALIVE, thnaks 1stdeuce,bobm and superburban. When it came from GL the fuel shut off valve was just sitting lose on top of the ip and the pigtail to the ip had been cut. As luck would have it I had a stack of army tri-axel flat beds that I moved from Ca to ft lost in the woods Mo. While at the trans co I poped the hood of a cucv sitting there. I had the wires backwards and had to rebend the arm on the shut off sol. Again thanks so much ( doing the happy dance now). I took a couple of pic while on the yard there, but how do I get them from my cell phone to the laptop?

 

[Recovry4x4]

EMail them from the cell to yourself. Congrats

 

[papercu]

cell

Try here for ideas about pictures. Wayne

http://help.cnet.com/ipod/9602-12576_39-0.html?messageID=2507362