CUCV Motor Mount Recommendations

ezgn

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@cucvrus Rick I went ahead and ordered the second type of Mounts. I would like to compare them.

I can just send back which ever one I don’t use. I’ll let you know.


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I sent you a link to the Energy Suspension website for you vehicle and they list the one you originally bought #31152G as being the correct part.
 

jplace1011

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I sent you a link to the Energy Suspension website for you vehicle and they list the one you originally bought #31152G as being the correct part.
@ezgn I am waiting for the mounts to arrive! I will also be ordering the Transmission Mount soon. It should all be good!


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cucvrus

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I would like to see a side-by-side comparison of these mounts. Back when I was pioneering replacement parts for CUCV's I used the parts as examples and did side by side comparisons and fit to come up with a part and part number that fit. I also tested it hard over the years. Here is what I found when looking up and researching your part number. I did this just in case I have a defect in my assemblies and can do a recall on all the vehicles I built with the 3.1116-part number.
Motor Mount - Chevrolet Suburban K2500 - 3.1152 (energysuspensionparts.com)
I did not see a 1983 or 1984 model year in any of the descriptions. I am putting this here for debate because I done my own research and if I was giving bad information, I want to stand corrected. Just saying the number, I gave you worked on several dozen CUCV's over the past 20+ years. I never used newer models in my search. I actually used the 1983 gas 350 mounts when all else was failing. Good Luck. Let's compare and see what is different if anything. I gots to know.
 

ezgn

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I would like to see a side-by-side comparison of these mounts. Back when I was pioneering replacement parts for CUCV's I used the parts as examples and did side by side comparisons and fit to come up with a part and part number that fit. I also tested it hard over the years. Here is what I found when looking up and researching your part number. I did this just in case I have a defect in my assemblies and can do a recall on all the vehicles I built with the 3.1116-part number.
Motor Mount - Chevrolet Suburban K2500 - 3.1152 (energysuspensionparts.com)
I did not see a 1983 or 1984 model year in any of the descriptions. I am putting this here for debate because I done my own research and if I was giving bad information, I want to stand corrected. Just saying the number, I gave you worked on several dozen CUCV's over the past 20+ years. I never used newer models in my search. I actually used the 1983 gas 350 mounts when all else was failing. Good Luck. Let's compare and see what is different if anything. I gots to know.
Rick, I have not used either one of these mounts yet so I cannot speak from experience. However, the 3.1116 mount was the go-to mount for the 6.2 diesel back in the day before Energy Suspension had a listing for the correct mount for the 6.2. I think through the years this application has evolved and Energy Suspension has more recently listed the big block 3.1152 mount as their recommended application for the 6.2. Regarding the differences, again my opinion, is that the small block application is smaller and does not take up as much space in the clam shell. The larger mount should sit somewhat more securely in the clamshell and be somewhat more heavy duty. This is conjecture to some degree on my part but seems to make sense. My opinion is either application will perform sufficiently.
 
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cucvrus

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M1009 Little Red Riding Hood. | Page 10 | SteelSoldiers
This the part number I have used on a dozen CUCV's. It always fit and worked. And as far as I know I have not had any engines falling out or any issues at all. I used this kit in snowplow CUCV trucks, Blazers, and every CUCV I ever rebuilt and sold. There are a few of them out there all over the globe. No reports of any issues. I hope that helps. Happy Thanksgiving.
 

jplace1011

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M1009 Little Red Riding Hood. | Page 10 | SteelSoldiers
This the part number I have used on a dozen CUCV's. It always fit and worked. And as far as I know I have not had any engines falling out or any issues at all. I used this kit in snowplow CUCV trucks, Blazers, and every CUCV I ever rebuilt and sold. There are a few of them out there all over the globe. No reports of any issues. I hope that helps. Happy Thanksgiving.

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jplace1011

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M1009 Little Red Riding Hood. | Page 10 | SteelSoldiers
This the part number I have used on a dozen CUCV's. It always fit and worked. And as far as I know I have not had any engines falling out or any issues at all. I used this kit in snowplow CUCV trucks, Blazers, and every CUCV I ever rebuilt and sold. There are a few of them out there all over the globe. No reports of any issues. I hope that helps. Happy Thanksgiving.
@cucvrus Hey Rick! I now have both sets of Energy Suspension Motor Mounts. I will be taking them out of the packages, very carefully so I can send one back.

I can tell you off hand, the 3.1116G type are more rounded around the edges and slightly thinner. I can see that through the clear packaging.

I’ll get you some pics!


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jplace1011

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@cucvrus Hey Rick! I now have both sets of Energy Suspension Motor Mounts. I will be taking them out of the packages, very carefully so I can send one back.

I can tell you off hand, the 3.1116G type are more rounded around the edges and slightly thinner. I can see that through the clear packaging.

I’ll get you some pics!


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@cucvrus Hey Rick!

The Bad News is we bent the oil pan while raising the engine to replace the Motor Mounts. We got the Drivers Side fine, but it bent while doing the Passengers Side Motor Mount.

I have a mobile mechanic doing the work, I told him not to do it that way but no he didn’t listen. Im praying he didn’t damage anything beyond the oil pan.


Do have any opinions about what type/brand of Oil Pan to get?


We ended up going to Harbor Freight where I purchased a Motor Crane. It was very helpful.

He’ll be back Friday to replace the Oil Pan and Gasket.

On the Flip side, I took pics of the two different Motor Mounts. It took us a whole lot of time to get it done, it was a bit of a game of Tetris.

Energy Suspension 3.1116G we’re the Mounts we ended up using. They fit best into the Clam Shell Mount Holders. One of the clam shells was actually welded, we had to crack it open via a grinder and small pry bar.







The Energy Suspension 3.1152G were too Big and Bulky.

As you can see in the pics, 3.1116G are shorter and the edges are more curved/sleek.















I think it’s safe to say these were the original, 36 year old, Engine Mounts we took out!! They were trash!!








We worked on the M1009 for about 10 hours, I’m glad it’s done!

Winner Winner! Turkey Dinner!!




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cucvrus

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WOW. I can't even watch. Bio clamping anything and grinding is painful to watch. But from the looks of it the clam shell is scrap anyway. I use a 3/4" piece of plywood and jack up on the oil pan and flywheel cover. I have not dented one yet. A dent is not a big deal. But if it is caved in that is a different story. I use 5/16" bolts to clamp the shell back together and grind the bolts smooth. Energy Suspension gives you zip ties. That is NOT very helpful. Good Luck. And Happy Thanksgiving. If you lived near me, you would be doing all this work yourself. I would mentor you. I have a couple people that use this acronym. WWRD. What would Rick do. Work smarter not harder. I am guilty of doing things the harder way at times and seem to get more favorable results. It is always a shorter journey to go the right way the first time then taking short cuts and having to turn around and get back on the correct path.
 

87cr250r

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The only thing anywhere near the bottom of the pan is the oil pump pickup. There is not much to get damaged down there. It is wise to replace the pan or at least hammer the dent out as the dent can block the oil pickup.

When you replace the pan, buy the gasket kit for the rear seal but toss the rest of the kit in the garbage. Use black silicone RTV, Permatex Right Stuff or equivalent.
 

jplace1011

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The only thing anywhere near the bottom of the pan is the oil pump pickup. There is not much to get damaged down there. It is wise to replace the pan or at least hammer the dent out as the dent can block the oil pickup.

When you replace the pan, buy the gasket kit for the rear seal but toss the rest of the kit in the garbage. Use black silicone RTV, Permatex Right Stuff or equivalent.
@cucvrus Rick I already ordered the Transmission Mount. I’m thinking we should change that too?

Is it hard to change this? Will it require any special tools, etc.?


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cucvrus

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It is just 2- 1/2" bolts. It should require a 3/4" x 1?2" drive shallow socket and ratchet. Optional would be a cordless 1/2" impact and 3/4" shallow 1/2" impact socket. Remove the 2 bolts and lightly lift the transmission center adapter with a jack. Just slightly and remove the rubber mounts. Clean the crossmember and install the new mounts. Carefully realign the bolts into the treads. They are tapered self-aligning bolts, but I am sure they can be cross threaded. Tighten them up. Follow the torque instructions. But 35 -50 ft lbs. will be good. Good Luck. I hope that helps.
 

jplace1011

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It is just 2- 1/2" bolts. It should require a 3/4" x 1?2" drive shallow socket and ratchet. Optional would be a cordless 1/2" impact and 3/4" shallow 1/2" impact socket. Remove the 2 bolts and lightly lift the transmission center adapter with a jack. Just slightly and remove the rubber mounts. Clean the crossmember and install the new mounts. Carefully realign the bolts into the treads. They are tapered self-aligning bolts, but I am sure they can be cross threaded. Tighten them up. Follow the torque instructions. But 35 -50 ft lbs. will be good. Good Luck. I hope that helps.
@cucvrus awesome!! Thank you for the information sir!!


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