CUCV quick lift question

[glaser06]

Hey guys, I'm down due to death wobble from worn leaf spring bushings. Figured I'd get my lift sorted out while I was underneath it. I want to run crossover steering to fix geometry issues that cause cracking. Summit has the skyjacker 4" lift and a superlift 3.5" lift. The superlift is obviously cheaper and comes with shocks so I'm tempted to go with it although I don't know anything about them nor do I see any reviews. With the extra weight of the diesel motor, the skyjacker you can get extra leafs that are fitted to the springs for $130 more. I've got a set of polyurethane bushings already and I'm planning on replacing as much of the hardware as I can. Truck is mostly an around town putter with limited offroad use (mostly unsticking my Jeep Comanche!).

Questions:
Would each one provide enough clearance for crossover steering?
Would 37" tires fit under either? Or would 35" be advisable?
Any ideas on the cheapest place to get brake lines (made/pre-fabbed/scrap yard)?

Thanks!


Superlift:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slf-k461/overview/

Skyjacker lift and helper springs:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sja-c140ck
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sja-flc140

 

[richingalveston]

4 inch I normally minimum with cross over. I have 5 inch. (have zero rates) with just the rear shackle flip I also have cross over high steer and 4 plus the high clearance cross member is needed when using the high steer option. I really have no extra room with 5 inch lift, I cannot run turbo cross over under the high clearance cross member. it has to go over.

I have ord products and like them. consider the shackle flip in the rear. you can keep factor springs which many like in the trucks. I still have my factory 1009 rears but I think one is sagging a little. it also helps pinion angle.
plan on driveshaft work.

I really tike the tough country HD springs up front on my 1009 from ord. they ride great.

 

[glaser06]

Rich,
I do have a turbo crossover, I didn't think about that. I'm ordering my crossover steering kit from ORD, I'll have to ask if the regular kit will clear.

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[ridenby]

37s will fit with 4 inches. I used ORD/Alcan springs in front,nice ride. Shackle flip in rear. Crossover,no high steer.

 

[The FLU farm]

Hey guys, I'm down due to death wobble from worn leaf spring bushings. Figured I'd get my lift sorted out while I was underneath it.

I've got a set of polyurethane bushings already and I'm planning on replacing as much of the hardware as I can. Truck is mostly an around town putter with limited offroad use (mostly unsticking my Jeep Comanche!).

Have you considered those bushings into the springs you have? Stock suspension should be adequate for putting around town, and then some.
And if you want to run 35s, they should fit, with minimal fender trimming if using wide wheels.

 

[Chaski]

I had the made in India Superlift 2.5" springs on the front of my rig for just shy of three years. Lots of flex, lots of sag, at the end I was back at stock height. I ended up swapping them out for some Tuff Country EZ ride ones. They are a good value.

Will it fit?
That depends.
ORD crossover should bolt right in. Crossover highsteer will put your tie rod high enough that it will hit your engine crossmember under compression. ORD and Totally Naked Auto both sell crossmembers that wrap under the engine further back giving your room for high steer.

Also, I would not run crossover without hydraulic assist or a panhard bar. Crossover can net you some nasty death wobble without one of those two.

Sorry about the duplicate photos, they are of mine with a 4" lift, ORD crossmember and high steer arms.

 

[86m1028]

The only way 37's are gonna clear with a 4in lift is a LOT of cutting.
I have 6in frt & 7.5 rear & my 37's rubbed like crazy.
That was with an 8.25in wheel & 12.5in wide tires.

 

[glaser06]

Have you considered those bushings into the springs you have? Stock suspension should be adequate for putting around town, and then some.
And if you want to run 35s, they should fit, with minimal fender trimming if using wide wheels.

Not able to run crossover with stock.

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[Obijuank5]

4 inch and 37s with a 17 inch wheel. little bit of cutting. white one is 6 inch and 42s. lots of cutting.

Crossover steering does not require hydro assist or a panhard bar. It does require a lift though. Those might be masking other issues. Like low caster numbers with that shim under those springs pictured or worn upper shackle hanger bushings. Very typically overlooked. Also poor condition or old enough to drink hummer tires.
For the drivability with the 4.56s I would get 37s on there even if you cut a little.
The steering knuckle spacer in the superlift kit likes to shear studs in the knuckle. I don't suggest using that style steering correction.
I suggest the skyjacker drop pitman arm. I have no bump steer and it drives excellent. In conjunction, use ORDs box brace and weld in kit if your'e worried about frame cracks. Crossover isn't all its cracked up to be unless you're on the trail full time. Again, in my opinion.
Procomp makes a great set of brake lines for the kit. They can be made locally at a hydraulic shop or brake specialty shop. We have them here in town and its usually around 30 bucks a line.

also one more thing, sometimes it gets real expensive being cheap. These are critical components and shouldnt be skimped on.

 

[Chaski]

I'd say I have to agree to disagree Obijuank5 about hydro Assist or a panhard bar.

I agree on the caster, that is critical. Those things in my leaf packs are not shims, they are the ORD offset plates to move my axle forward a bit. A couple of the pics are with a front tire 36" off the ground so it is twisted up a bit.


If you look at any OEM straight axle pickup with crossover steering off the assembly line made by Dodge or Ford it will have a panhard bar. Without it things can get sketchy at highway speed. What happens is kind of a self perpetuating death wobble. It just takes something to start it like a big pothole. The pickup deflects a little to the drivers side in relation to the front axle, which pulls the draglink steering it left, then the pickup deflects to the passenger side and it turns right. This repeats and gets more violent until you slow down. If you are going fast enough it can get pretty interesting. I know 3 local guys with crossover and they all run hydro Assist for trail brute force and highway manners.

Just my opinion, but I have never came across someone who regretted hydraulic assist unless they put in a huge cylinder and slowed their steering down too much.

 

[glaser06]

4 inch and 37s with a 17 inch wheel. little bit of cutting. white one is 6 inch and 42s. lots of cutting.

Pretty much the stance I'm looking for on the right.

Crossover because I've seen so many K series trucks with cracked frames from limited or no trail use. I don't care for it as much for handling but I'm partial to keeping my steering box connected to the frame.

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[Obijuank5]

Still, crossover may not be the answer. Push pull sends the box forward and back crossover will literally pull the bolts through the frame. You really only need a bolt in brace with stock steering and a one ton frame.
Call ord and pick their brains. Stephen will tell it like it is and the guy with the 77k5 moonpie named chris maybe will answer any questions straight up. I've had almost every suspension and steering setup on too many trucks to keep track of. My current m1008 drives the best and it's a drop pitman arm and that's it.

 

[glaser06]

Still, crossover may not be the answer. Push pull sends the box forward and back crossover will literally pull the bolts through the frame. You really only need a bolt in brace with stock steering and a one ton frame.
Call ord and pick their brains. Stephen will tell it like it is and the guy with the 77k5 moonpie named chris maybe will answer any questions straight up. I've had almost every suspension and steering setup on too many trucks to keep track of. My current m1008 drives the best and it's a drop pitman arm and that's it.

Been talking with Chris at ORD. He recommended crossover to save the frame.

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[someoldmoose]

It's your money but there is no need for a high steer kit with only four inches of front lift. A drop pitman arm will put your drag link back to stock angle ( flat ). If you are worried about cracking the frame at the steering box, add the reinforcement kit ( shoulda been standard on all GM trucks ) and make sure the box bolts are torqued properly. I have run 44's using a four inch raised steering arm and four inch drop pitman arm in heavy mudding and never cracked a frame at the box with the reinforcement kit on board.

High steer is great and often the only answer to more than eight inches of lift, but unnecessary for any less. But again, it's your money.

 

[glaser06]

Not running high steer due to clearance issues with the turbo crossover pipe. Just standard crossover steering.

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[someoldmoose]

Ah, sorry. But still, in my opinion, unnecessary. The forces on the frame won't change. Torque is torque. All good, just use the best parts and fasteners.

 

[86m1028]

Not running high steer due to clearance issues with the turbo crossover pipe. Just standard crossover steering.
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Please explain this statement.
Can you post pics of your crossover pipe ?

 

[86m1028]

Been talking with Chris at ORD. He recommended crossover to save the frame.
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Have you driven a truck with crossover on it ?
Without a track bar or hydro assist it's not the most responsive.
I am speaking from experience, have a 1028 with just about EVERYTHING NEW from the frame down with crossover & a 6in kit on it. I don't drive it because I HATE the steering.
Have hydro assist, just haven't had time to install it.

IF it's JUST street driven most of the time, do what Matt (obijaun) suggests & do a drop pitman arm & you will be happy.

IF hydro assist doesn't fix my issues, I'm going back to stock push pull steering, factory sway bar, drop pitman arm, 4x box & a knuckle block if needed.

Ord brace on the 1 ton frame is plenty for 37's.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Worth posting is the fact that 1 ton frames are thicker than the 3/4 or 1/2 ton counterparts. Cracking the frame is much more common on these mentioned trucks.

 

[glaser06]

Yes, 1 ton frames are thicker. Still not uncommon to see cracked, I've repaired 3 or 4 in my lifetime, one had a brace and it cracked around the welds.

Daily drove an 06 Cummins with crossover and no hydro, not a big deal. I'm familiar with the pros/cons of the steering change.

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