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Dealing with Rust

sedone

New member
25
0
0
Location
Wasola Missouri
Hi Guys,
I would like to ask for some suggestions on dealing with the undercarriage rust on
my 1008. She worked part time as a snow plow in Kansas and so she's got a fair amount of surface rust. I am installing my lift, wheels and tires next week and wanted to pull the bed off as well to better get to what I can without a full body off. My plan was to hit it with a wire wheel, the POR15 converter and then a hard coat. Does anyone have any tips as to rehabing the rear springs? What paint? Sandpaper? Etc.
I am putting greaseable bushings and making my own Heavy Duty Shackles.
Thanks, Sedone
P.S. Could you guys give me your ideas on blocks vs. shackle conversion for the rear.
 

Jones

Well-known member
2,237
83
48
Location
Sacramento, California
A big job but the right way is to disassemble the springs, VERY CAREFULLY, and wire brush each leaf, look for places where a leaf tip has dug into the leaf it rides against. If you find that condition, smooth out the rough spot(s) with sandpaper. Though some people say to assemble them dry, I've had good luck coating with a dry lubricant like graphite or moly chassis grease; at least at the tips where one leaf slides against the next as the spring-pack works. Reassemble with new center bolts; don't reuse the old ones as they're no doubt stretched and the threads may be chewed up and weakened. From there, an enamel paint will be a little more flexible and forgiving than a lacquer. Spring wrappers usually just hold water against the springs and help the rusting process along so we don't use them.
 

85-m1028

New member
282
1
0
Location
costa mesa ca.
I use zero rust for rust problems great stuff!! just go to an auto paint shop and ask for it. As far as the rear springs I would NEVER use blocks for lift purposes unless it's a zero rate, shackle flip is the way to go. Both can be found at off road design...
 

BigJay

New member
113
0
0
Location
Cave Springs, AR
I've got a rusty project in my future so I've been reading about all the magic rust preps. I've read more than a few places that if you don't follow the POR15 directions exactly it will not work correctly. One of the more common problems seemed like sweat dripping into fresh POR15. Apparently any moisture before its dry will completely ruin it.

-Jay
 

sedone

New member
25
0
0
Location
Wasola Missouri
I read that too Jay. Although I have used POR15 before with great success it's also that I'm looking to be able to spray and I don't have a spray gun yet. I checked out the Zero Rust stuff, looks good and price is right. I am just not sure if I need to use a UV resistant paint on the frame, brackets and axles but I am leaning towards yes. My lift comes in next week but it'll take me a minute 'cause I am doing it by myself. I'll take before and after pics of course.
Thanks for your help guys, Sedone
 

BKinzey

New member
225
2
0
Location
Hollywood, CA
I bought Rust Bullet but I haven't applied it yet. They guys here seem to get good results from just primer & paint. Look in the painting forum.
 
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