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Deuce fiberglass hardtop.

Bigmillman

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The rust monster has been hungry!! My restoraton-repaint on my duece has produced a sad sight for my steel hardtop. :cry: I see the light in many places. (right though the steel!) It does not look like it is worth fixing, so replacing is looking like the road to go.
Does anyone know where I might find a replacement steel or fiberglass hardtop for a m35a2? :|
 

ida34

Well-known member
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Dexter, MI
RE: Duece fiberglass hardtop.

If you replace yours let me know. I might be interested in your old one if you are going to get rid of it.
 

Bigmillman

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Schoolcraft/Michigan
Re: RE: Duece fiberglass hardtop.

ida34 said:
If you replace yours let me know. I might be interested in your old one if you are going to get rid of it.
Mine has some serious holes in it and along the front windshield flange and the bottom where it meets the tub you can bet a beer can is thicker. When I get one, I will keep you in mind.
If this economy keeps up, I just might use mine as a template and build a new one. I don't think 316 stainless will rust anytime soon....Maybe aluminum.....Thanks
 

kipman

Active member
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Location
Lancaster Ohio
Hard Top For Sale

I have a hard top that is missing the slidding rear window and will need the lip bent back in shape, where the top bolts to the cab. no rust on the top but as typical dents.
 

SasquatchSanta

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Here is a picture of the top that John Tennis (Jatonka) supplies.

I've been told they are quieter than the stock steel tops. Since I don't have anything to compare it with I can't say first hand.

It's very well built.

John does good work .
 

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Bigmillman

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Hey SasquatchSanta,
I do believe your statement about the quality of Jatonka's top. It looks very top notch. [thumbzup]
I am not looking to go for award winning looks, just function at this point. I am thinking about pulling mine right off and sandblasting the snot out of it so I can truely see to what extent of cancer this thing has. I can weld in new metal, but I just want it to not look cobbled at all. I will try to drag out my sandblaster and have my wife watch the little kids for awhile so I can play. I will post pictures of what I have to deal with later. :driver:
Is it better to mess with a dented P.O.S. rusted out box or just replace the darned thing? About half of the supports are no longer part of the world, and I have about 7 1-3" holes to deal with. I think that as soon as I blast them, I will find not enough to weld too. :(
My tool box and both steps are easy fixes but that box and top..... :roll:
 

SasquatchSanta

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Here is a picture of the back of the cab.

My truck came equiped with the jatonka top and came with a sliding window. I would bet if you ordered a top it would come with the window.

The three bumps on top of the cab are evidently (I'm guessing) for strength. I would have prefered that they either not be there or that there be 5 instead of 3. Having said this, the cab top is very sturdy and well built.

As you can see, I've mounted clearance lights. I had to --- I've got an old Brockway dog (his name is Scooter) mounted up on the hood and at night, without the lights, that stupid dog kept falling off the hood.
 

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Bigmillman

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Schoolcraft/Michigan
I gotta say that sure is a nicely done rig. The tool box added under the driver's side box is a nice touch.
I am building a new sandblaster. BTW don't buy one of those cheep China jobs. Just build a pressure type yourself. You will be happier in the long run.
You can then run standard American parts that last longer. :D
 

Bigmillman

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Schoolcraft/Michigan
Thanks. I am going to sand blast mine and have a oldschool streetrodder friend look at it for reskinning. If it is too fooched up, I will get the tajonka type. Thank you guys. [thumbzup]
 
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