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Deuce Is Home - How to fix it?

Tinwoodsman

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Picked up my Deuce at Lackland AFB today and drove it 70 miles home averaging 40 to 50 MPH. Got a few leaks to address and I will post pictures later on those. First I need to address these items:
  1. My oil pressure gauge does not move when I turn on the engine but pegs all the way to the right (60psi) and stays there. I know this isn't right so where would I start. The gauge, the pressure sender or elswhere?
  2. I definitely have a tranny problem. I have a 5 speed but how do I tell whether it is an O.D. tranny or not? Iit shifts fine in reverse, 1st to 2nd but seldom shifts to third without some double clutching. Goes fine to 4th and 5th. I gearshift boot came off part way home and spattered some oil on the floor. How bad is it?
First of many posts I fear.

Thanks.
 

6x6guy

Member
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McHenry, Il.
The sending unit could be bad, or the wire from the sending unit to the guage is shorted.

Did you check the fluid levels before driving off, it could have been low and now it's needs
rebuilding. :roll:
 

fasttruck

Well-known member
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Mesa, AZ
Diesel trucks invariably have over drive transmissions, gassers are direct in high. Od units have direct drive in the rear on then right side and od (high) gear in the front. You would notice this when driving if you pull the stick to the rear and downshift at the same time. Transmission is full of fluid ? This is usually 80w gear oil in most parts of texas. . .
 

kc5mzd

Member
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Location
Texas
I would check all the fluids and add Lucas where needed. I would also go with a 170 thermostat. The military considers 90 - 95 extreme heat and installs a 185 - 190 thermostat for what we would call cool weather. Lucas will stay thicker when it gets hot and help the oil stick to the moving metal parts. I would recomend driving it around on slow back roads for short trips for a couple of tanks to let everything seat. You live in a nice area if you can avoid the freeway.

I would also recomend taking the top off and enjoying the scenery...
 

Tinwoodsman

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Thanks for the inputs.

I started by checking the fluids. Easy on the transfer case with a 1/2" drive but he transmission had hex plugs. Fluids passed the knuckle test. I will drain the tranny and planned to add GL-1 which I picked up at Tractor Supply. The sell it as "Ford Tractor Hydraulic Oil" but it is 100% mineral oil. I thought about using Lucas but I am totally confused by the GL-1 throught GL-5 debate. :roll:

I will check the ground wire on the pressure gauge. I am not sure why I need to change the thermostat. The engine ran between 180-190 on the highway and the air pressure was a solid 95-100 psi.

Finally, I still am not sure how to identify my tranny. Are all 5 speeds overdrive tranny's? Also, is there any way to tell a 3053 from a 3053a on the outside. If the fluid change does not improve the shifting, should I remove the top and inspect for damage. I has some knowledge, the manuals and several mechanic friends but I don't want to get into a project that will cost more in parts than a takeoff or rebuilt transmission. :confused:
 

Tinwoodsman

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Tranny Parts Diagram

Okay, I am officially lost. I have searched all the TM's and the LO I downloaded and cannot find any parts diagrams and lists for the transmission that go beyond the breather cap maintenance. I would think 20 or 20P would have it but NOT!!!

Am I losing it or just missing something because I am old. :cookoo:
 

kc5mzd

Member
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I would strongly recomend Lucas gear oil for all the gearboxes including the axles. I would use 1 gallon Lucas oil additive added to the engine oil.

If you use the wrong kind of oil it will make all your seals leak and then you will have to replace them. I don't think any kind of mineral oil would be good.

Your temp is ok. If you use the cooler thermostat it would run about 165 then go up to about 185 under load. This is close to the opperating range you would expect the engine to run at when not in extreme heat. It would also help the oil keep from getting to thin.
 

Tinwoodsman

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Comfort, Texas
Understood. I forgot to mention that the temperature was 101 degrees on this trip. As for the oil, the mix you recommend is easy to find. However, it was my understanding from previous post that GL-1 is indeed nothing but mineral oil. That is what has confused me. I have read numerous post regarding the correct lubricants and there are many who recommend 50W engine oil, engine oil with Lucas, GL-5 that meets MT1 specs and GL-1.

If I assume the oil in the tranny when I picked it up is GL-1, I guess I have nothing to lose going with the mixture.
 

mckeeranger

Member
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Eastern Kentucky
Okay, I am officially lost. I have searched all the TM's and the LO I downloaded and cannot find any parts diagrams and lists for the transmission that go beyond the breather cap maintenance. I would think 20 or 20P would have it but NOT!!!

Am I losing it or just missing something because I am old. :cookoo:
I think you are looking for TM 9-2520-246-34
 
Last edited:

Heavysteven

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Hickory Flat Ga
I would pull the cab plate over the transmission and check the spring vent infront of the shifter. Then cahnge the gear oil and pull the inspection plate near the bell housing. Look in there and hit that grease fitting.

I had problems with my oil pressure and temp. Simple fix is to just replace the gauge and sending units.
 

Tinwoodsman

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Location
Comfort, Texas
I looked at TM9-2320-361-34 and it does not provide any detail parts diagram which goes so far as identifying the drain, fill and fording plugs. I assume the upper plug is the check and fill plug but am not sure.

So many things are covered in these manuals at the most basic level. I can't imagine they would not include the basic info and diagram. :-(
 

kc5mzd

Member
481
1
16
Location
Texas
I would not mix the transmission and axle oils. Use Lucas gear oil. Its extra sticky and won't get to thin when it gets hot.

I would use Lucas additive in the engine crankcase along with a good 40w engine oil certified for diesel engines.

One reason to use 50w engine oil in the gearboxes is because it is thinner at very cold temps than 80w. I would recommend against it in Texas. In some areas it gets so cold 80w gear oil gets so thick it is more like grease than oil. This would prevent it from flowing into the gears and shafts and would cause the gears to seize onto the shafts from the lack of lubrication even though the oil level is full.

Here in Texas we have the opposite problem. When oil gets hot it gets thinner. The oil can get so thin it acts more like water than oil. It all washes out from the metal parts it is supposed to lubricate and things can seize from the lack of lubrication even when the oil level is full.

Winter here is short and the temp does not get much below freezing. Up north they can get below 0 for long periods so they have to use hotter thermostats and thinner oils
 

Heavysteven

New member
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Location
Hickory Flat Ga
So many things are covered in these manuals at the most basic level. I can't imagine they would not include the basic info and diagram. :-(
Just take your time and relax. Most every thing on a deuce is pretty start forward. My words of advice is do one thing at a time. Otherwise you will feel overwhelmed [thumbzup]
 
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