Diesel getting in oil. What else should I look at while I'm fixing this?

[M37M35]

Well I've noticed the engine oil level of my deuce slowly rising and the oil getting thiner, so apparently there's diesel getting in the oil somehow. The FDC is bypassed and the intake heater has a valve on it, so that leaves either the HH or booster pump leaking. (Unless I'm missing something?)

I took the plug out of the bottom of the IP and ran the in-tank pump for awhile but no diesel ever came out, so apparently it's only leaking while the engine is running. Since I don't know which one is leaking, I figured I might as well replace the seals in both of them so I don't have to come back to it again.

After reading through this thread, I ordered a booster pump seal kit from SECO. The price has gone up to $39. (And shipping cost $19!!! Really!? To ship those little parts?!)
And after reading this thread, I'll need to get some HH O-rings from KennyS, or someone... Any suggestions?

That brings me to the main reason for this post... Since I have to dig into this, what other things should I check and what other parts should I replace while I'm in here?
Since the engine runs so good, I'm hoping to avoid removing the IP to do this, but I will if I have to. I don't want to mess up the timing. I'd like to just lift the engine to get the booster pump out, but it sure looks close!

I'm thinking I should replace the oil feed lines to the IP. There's two right? What is a source for good new production ones?
Other than for the turbo, are there any other oil feed lines on the engine?
I might also replace the fuel feed and return lines on the engine. The ones that are on it now are plastic and don't look very good.
And since I'll have to change the contaminated oil, I'm considering going to spin-on oil filters, if I can afford it. I don't like the 15 seconds it takes to build oil pressure.

Any other thoughts or suggestions about any of this?

Thanks!

 

[rustystud]

Well I've noticed the engine oil level of my deuce slowly rising and the oil getting thiner, so apparently there's diesel getting in the oil somehow. The FDC is bypassed and the intake heater has a valve on it, so that leaves either the HH or booster pump leaking. (Unless I'm missing something?)

I took the plug out of the bottom of the IP and ran the in-tank pump for awhile but no diesel ever came out, so apparently it's only leaking while the engine is running. Since I don't know which one is leaking, I figured I might as well replace the seals in both of them so I don't have to come back to it again.

After reading through this thread, I ordered a booster pump seal kit from SECO. The price has gone up to $39. (And shipping cost $19!!! Really!? To ship those little parts?!)
And after reading this thread, I'll need to get some HH O-rings from KennyS, or someone... Any suggestions?

That brings me to the main reason for this post... Since I have to dig into this, what other things should I check and what other parts should I replace while I'm in here?
Since the engine runs so good, I'm hoping to avoid removing the IP to do this, but I will if I have to. I don't want to mess up the timing. I'd like to just lift the engine to get the booster pump out, but it sure looks close!

I'm thinking I should replace the oil feed lines to the IP. There's two right? What is a source for good new production ones?
Other than for the turbo, are there any other oil feed lines on the engine?
I might also replace the fuel feed and return lines on the engine. The ones that are on it now are plastic and don't look very good.
And since I'll have to change the contaminated oil, I'm considering going to spin-on oil filters, if I can afford it. I don't like the 15 seconds it takes to build oil pressure.

Any other thoughts or suggestions about any of this?

Thanks!

Sounds like you have a good handle on this problem. As far as the injection pump oil lines go you can have a good hydraulic shop make you up a set. I went with PTFE stainless steel lines since I never want to have to do that job again.

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

Well I have plenty of o-rings left if you need them.

 

[M37M35]

The booster pump seal kit came in today. It's dated 5/93, so I guess it's NOS. I hope there's still good life left in the rubber parts...

Well I have plenty of o-rings left if you need them.

Thanks! I ordered a kit from you.

Sounds like you have a good handle on this problem. As far as the injection pump oil lines go you can have a good hydraulic shop make you up a set. I went with PTFE stainless steel lines since I never want to have to do that job again.

There's a couple places in town that make hoses, so I'll give that a try.

Another thought... I've seen mention of a clip or retainer that's part of the HH that sometimes decides to come loose, and folks have mentioned an upgraded one to fix the issue. I haven't researched this, but is this something I should look at since I'll have the HH off?

 

[M37M35]

So should I be concerned about this HH clip?

 

[frank8003]

Just finish what you are doing
Drain it ALL
Put 5 gallons in, mark the dipstick for that as COLD
Then check the oil level before startup as per instructions
Then run it drive it long time GI
Stop it and mark dipstick
Should go down
Watch as per instructions
^This is not Toyota

 

[rustystud]

So should I be concerned about this HH clip?[/QUOTE



You can buy new clips from "AMBAC" . Just check yours for looseness when you have the Hydraulic Head off.

 

[M543A2]

We changed a bad injector in a friend's truck; it stopped his oil level rise problem. It was squirting, not spraying, doing it at a pressure too low when tested on the injector tester.

 

[M37M35]

So should I be concerned about this HH clip?

You can buy new clips from "AMBAC" . Just check yours for looseness when you have the Hydraulic Head off.

Thank you for the reply! So as long as mine isn't loose, it should be okay?

We changed a bad injector in a friend's truck; it stopped his oil level rise problem. It was squirting, not spraying, doing it at a pressure too low when tested on the injector tester.

How well was his truck running with the bad injector? I would think there would be a noticeable miss or vibration... I didn't consider an injector being the issue here because it runs so nicely.

 

[rustystud]

Thank you for the reply! So as long as mine isn't loose, it should be okay?




How well was his truck running with the bad injector? I would think there would be a noticeable miss or vibration... I didn't consider an injector being the issue here because it runs so nicely.

If your Hydraulic Head "Clip" is tight on the shaft then just leave it alone. As far as the injector goes, you would definitely feel the vibration if it was just squirting like he said it was. It would be like a bad spark plug in a gas engine. Since your engine is running smooth I don't feel you have anything wrong with your injection system.

 

[M37M35]

I thought the same thing about a bad injector, so I don't think that's an issue.

Made some progress... Yesterday I got the booster pump off by unbolting the motor mounts, lifting the engine, and pulling it to the side. I was a bit skeptical that would gain enough room because it's so close to the steering shaft, but it did just clear it.

Today I got the booster pump rebuilt and ready to put back on, the IP oil lines taken off, and the HH taken off. I would have got the booster pump and HH back on, but the button clip on the HH is loose and has a tab broken off, so I'll need a new clip. Things were going so well to...

I also discovered a couple motor mounts aren't in very good shape, and a motor mount bracket is very loose. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the motor mount bracket tightened back up, new oil lines made and put on, and the booster pump put back on.


Had to remove the intake heater spark plug to move the engine sideways. I also removed the intake hose from the air filter to the turbo. Surprisingly, that's all that had to be messed with to shift the engine.


Booster pump off.


I stuck a tire valve stem in a port to apply air pressure, and a little diesel came out around the shaft. This was probably the source of the leak.


Disassembled.


Done.


Yet another use for a K-boom!


Had to put a strap around the radiator and lift it too because it's not attached to the engine mounts.


Just enough room.

 

[rustystud]

Good job M37M35 !

 

[tommys2patrick]

I agree with Rusty--good job. The photos helped me follow you as well--thanks. I liked your using the trucks Kboom to help in the process. I imagine you positioned the K boom before shutting the engine off for the last time. The hydraulics must lock up pretty solid when you shut down-- ie no bleed down. Or did you have some sort of shaft locks to prevent that while you raised the engine?

I have what appears to be a leak in my steering box. Its just as hard to get to as the pump. Been thinking about jacking the engine but I will have to use some sort of jack from below.

 

[M37M35]

Thanks guys!

Yes, I positioned the boom before I started disassembling the engine. The hydraulics are pretty tight so it leaks down very little. It doesn't have any provisions for position locks.

Lifting the engine does gain a decent amount of room. It could probably be jacked up from the bottom with a good jack and a bunch of cribbing.

Today I got the booster pump back on and new oil lines installed. The local hydraulic place wasn't sure if they had the right fittings in stock, so I dug around in the workshop and found a couple hydraulic hoses with the right fittings. They're a little longer than they need to be, but they're US made and rated for 4000 PSI, so I shouldn't have to worry about them for quite a while.

And I'm getting a new HH clip from a member here, so when it comes in I'll be able to finish up the HH.


New oil hoses on.






Booster pump on.

 

[M37M35]

It lives!!! I got it all back together and started it up last Wednesday.

I got the new HH clip on and the HH reinstalled with the new o-rings. The old o-rings were a bit flattened but still pliable, so I think the fuel leak was coming from the booster pump. It was a little tricky getting the HH to drop back in place correctly, but I finally got it.

The injection line nuts were a bit rusted and hard to turn on the lines, so I had to free those up before putting the lines back on.

As I was bolting the motor mounts back down I found both front motor mount brackets were loose on the block, so I had to tighten those up.

I let the in-tank pump run for about 10 minutes to get the air bled out while I was finishing things up, then tried to start it... It cranked for about 8-10 seconds then fired right up!! I let it idle for a few minutes and folded the boom back up, and it ran great! I haven't driven it down the road yet because I haven't had time to change the oil, but I think it's fixed!


Broken HH clip.


New HH clip.


New HH o-rings and clip.



The old o-ring around the shut-off lever shaft was bigger than the new one. Comparing the two, the new smaller o-ring fits better, so I think it had the wrong one in there to begin with.
New one on left. Old one on the right.


Shut-off lever back in and safety-wired, and injection lines hooked up.