Does MIL only use CARC for HMMWV?

[fnpurist]

Does the mil only use carc to paint hmmwv's? I know carc has lead and other bad stuff so I got a lead paint test kit to see if my hmmwv did in fact test positive for it before I start a long sanding job. To my surprise it tested negative. I even gave the test 24 hours incase it contained lead chromates which take longer to detect and it still came up negative. I wonder if only hmmwv's seeing frontline action are sprayed with carc.

Also what are you guys using for sanding around rivets? Is the 3m scotch rite pad the only choice?

 

[NDT]

Old formula 2 part CARC has isocyanates not lead. All HMMWVs came with CARC from the factory. I use a palm sander with 80 grit to smooth the old finish.

 

[tim292stro]

First: define CARC.

There are at least 6 different types of CARC available. Lead and Hexavalent Chromium was phased out of CARC before the Gulf War. There may have been some old stock around at that time, but for the most part DoD respects the shelf life (about one year from the date of manufacture) since lives and strategy depend on the coating being successful.

The biggest hazard you will face when removing CARC from a mid '80's part, is the flattening agent (what makes the paint dull/non-reflective). Except for the newest variants of CARC that use polymer microspheres to create a textured surface that diffuses light, the older CARCs use silica powder to give it texture.

Silica is what we use to make glass - so think of broken shards of glass the size of dust getting deep into your lungs...

Wear a respirator, and clean up with water and a wet/dry shop-vac to keep the dust down. You DO NOT want silicosis.

 

[fnpurist]

I'm planning to use a RO Bosch and mirka 80 grit sandpaper to start. I'm going to paint with a urethane paint and was wondering it an epoxy primer or self etching primer would be best on bare aluminum

 

[fnpurist]

Yea silica is no good. I deal with concrete often and its full of it. Thanks for the info

 

[chestypuller1371]

is there a reason you cant paint over it with a safe paint to encapsulate it instead of removing the old paint?

 

[fnpurist]

I'm not planning on removing all of it. There is a lot of drips and flaking on my hmmwv so I just want to smooth it all out. Some spots will be down to the bare aluminum which is why I want to know what the best primer to use is. Plus I need to paint under the truck on the suspension etc since there is a lot of overspray on it

 

[tim292stro]

Best primer is the one the paint system calls for.

It's not like putting furniture in a living room you've collected over the years - imagine a green shag carpet with a white leather couch, and a brown love seat you found on the curb 5 years ago, and a coffee table with bamboo legs and a glass top... Ugh - ugly.

Everything in a paint system needs to be compatible or it will bubble, peel (orange peal), flake, etc... There are TMs for paint repair of CARC - I don't have the numbers handy here at work, but you can search for it with Google-fu. Typically what ever top-coat you select however will have a recommended primer for the base, and would have instructions for surface prep.

Be aware that if you are doing a spot repair on a very old paint job, the color is likely to have shifted significantly, requiring a larger area to be painted. Goes for both 3-Color NATO and Desert Tan.

 

[fnpurist]

I understand what your saying but the paint I'm using is compatible with multiple primers. I'm just trying to find the best one for bare aluminum and going over carc. I'm not doing spot repair, I just have to do heavier sanding in some spots but am going to prime and paint the entire vehicle

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

You want an epoxy primer compatible with aluminum.....if you get to bare aluminum, it needs acid washing and alodine treatment.

 

[fnpurist]

I already have spots that are down to bare aluminum from paint completely flaking off. Is the alodine treatment complicated or expensive?

 

[tim292stro]

Epoxy, urethane is a pretty solid system. Again, do a test on another piece to see if you get a good bond before kicking into the whole truck, and clean, clean, clean

 

[DatGuyC]

I already have spots that are down to bare aluminum from paint completely flaking off. Is the alodine treatment complicated or expensive?

http://www.skygeek.com/henkel-592726-brush-alodine-120-kit.html

From the directions in the kit it doesn't seem too difficult. Haven't done it myself though.

 

[Dr Zoidberg MD]

I'm not doing my paint until the spring, but I was going to give the Rapco Parts CARC substitute a try. I bought a rattle can of all 3 colors and liked what I saw. Will do gallons in my HVLP.

 

[fnpurist]

Does anyone know where to get the sealant amg used the seal the body panels? I have some cracking off on some of the panels and it's a good time to fix it. By the way, they did a horrible job making the sealant look neat, it looks like a 3 yr old did it with a caulk gun. If the sealant is impossible to find then I'll probably use a elastomeric caulk but would prefer the real deal unless you guys have a better suggestion

 

[cucvrus]

elastomeric caulk? Not sure if it is the same sealant I use but I have used seam sealer and body sealant from 3M. Any good automotive grade paint-able caulk / sealant will work fine. I use Manus products sealer. A good sealer PPG products comes in black grey and white. I would avoid using the spray bombs if you are going to paint the entire vehicle in spring. The good grade sealers will attack the dried spray paint and lift it making ugly spots in your paint job. That is just my experience. i thought I would share that. just feather in the rough edges and sand down to 180 and go at it. I hope that helps.

 

[fnpurist]

elastomeric caulk? Not sure if it is the same sealant I use but I have used seam sealer and body sealant from 3M. Any good automotive grade paint-able caulk / sealant will work fine. I use Manus products sealer. A good sealer PPG products comes in black grey and white. I would avoid using the spray bombs if you are going to paint the entire vehicle in spring. The good grade sealers will attack the dried spray paint and lift it making ugly spots in your paint job. That is just my experience. i thought I would share that. just feather in the rough edges and sand down to 180 and go at it. I hope that helps.

I will look into 3m sealant for sure, didn't even think about that. I'm not using spray paint, I'm actually going to do a legit paint job using a hvlp sprayer. I went to an auto paint supplier today and decided I'm going to go with a tan acrylic enamel base and then mix a little flattener in the clear to give it a eggshell/satin sheen, this will make it a lot more durable and look really good. I already started sanding and started with 80 then 120, 240 and then 360 schotchbrite

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I use nothing but 80 grit and it looks fine...CARC lays on thick and fill most imperfections.
Type 9 CARC looks beautiful when done right...does not compare to the old silica based stuff, that stuff was like 120 grit sand paper.

 

[fnpurist]

I use nothing but 80 grit and it looks fine...CARC lays on thick and fill most imperfections.
Type 9 CARC looks beautiful when done right...does not compare to the old silica based stuff, that stuff was like 120 grit sand paper.

Really? Do you have any good pics that show the type 9? Does it clean easy or is it like the other carc where oily handprints are hard to get off and no matter how much you wash it, it still looks dirty? Your right about the carc looking like 120 grit. I could sand wood on the carc I'm sanding off right now

 

[fnpurist]

I'm going for this look or sheen. Whoever did this hmmwv did an outstanding job