glaser06
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- Red Stick, La
THIS IS A DRAFT. I HAVE COMPLETED ONE SIDE AND ADDED PICTURES I HAVE TAKEN SO FAR. IF YOU WOULD LIKE SPECIFIC PICTURES I AM FINISHING THE SECOND DOOR TODAY, REPLY HERE AND I WILL TAKE THEM AS I GO TO BE ADDED WHEN I FINISH.
I mentioned I was doing this and there were several members who were interested in a write-up of how it went. My M1028 is my daily driver and for this I wasn't at home in my shop for this. Most of it was done out on the street in New Orleans over the course of a few days. I'll try and list all the parts I bought first (and where I got them), and then the tools I needed. I'll also list the videos on youtube I used for reference as they were a big help during the process.
I will say, everything except the vent windows were a piece of cake. The vent windows were a PITA and were a major test of patience with the mosquitoes nipping at my ankles.
Parts ordered:
I used exclusively Precision weatherstripping as I had spoken with them on the phone and via email and had heard good things from other car guys on their other stuff. Everything fit as it should although some pieces did take a little more "massaging" than others. Ordered from JC Whitney. For the record, GM's design of the vent window sucks to work on.
Door Upper Weatherstrip Seals
***Goes on cab pinchweld and door shuts against it. If your door leaks around the opening, this is it.***
Mfr #: DWP 1110 73
Qty:1 (Comes as a pair, not side specific.)
Vent Window Glass Seals, Rubber
***This is the 2-piece seal. Apparently GM just kinda went willy-nilly on these, use this video to confirm if you have a 2-piece like mine, I suspect they all do. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YwM0piQ-OE)***
Mfr #: VWK 1110 81 A
Qty:1 (Comes as a pair so 4 total pieces, 2 "L" and 2 straight. RT/LH specific.)
Door Glass Flock Channel
***Goes inside door around top and sides of glass. Chances are yours is shot and brittle.***
Mfr #: GRL 1110 81
Qty:1 (Comes as a pair, they are RT/LH specific)
Door Glass Wiper Seal
***Goes on outside of glass at bottom of window and wipes glass as it goes up/down. Was missing on my truck***
Mfr #: WFL 1101 73 and WFR 1101 73
Qty:1 of Each (they are RT/LH specific)
Inner Door Glass Felted Wiper Seal
***Goes on inside of glass at bottom of window and wipes glass as it goes up/down. Attached to door panel trim.***
Mfr #: WFL 1100 81 and WFR 1100 81
Qty:1 of Each (they are RT/LH specific)
The following I ordered from Classic Industries as they were cheaper than anyone else. The first two are necessary, the third (03-825) is optional. You can replace it with pop rivets from Harbor Freight if you like as it’s much easier (just not original).
03-831 (1951-72) Vent Pivot Rivets
03-835 (1951-87) Vent Rivet Setting Tool
03-825 (1951-87) Vent Assembly Rivets (optional)
This is the Rivet Gun I used from HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-riveters/hand-riveter-set-38353.html
I used the 5/32” rivets because the Hand Rivets from Classic are a PITA to do by yourself.
Tools Used
Phillips Screwdriver
Hand Impact (Harbor Freight $7.99)
Hammer
Flathead screwdriver
7/16” socket
1/2” socket
Foaming Glass Cleaner (Wal-mart $3)
Pliers/Channellocks
Window Handle remover ($9 from Autozone, optional but recommended)
Visegrips
Vise, Anvil, truck bed corner or other hard surface.
Rivet gun from Harbor Freight ($5)
Step 1: Remove Door Panel
Followed this video more or less: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mczSAD3egbw Learned a few things though:
Pull out the 2 screws in the armrest first. They tend to be corroded and nasty, I managed to strip my PS out trying to use a drill with a bit and had to use a screw extractor (another $9 to Harbor Freight). If this happens use the #3 bit at a slower speed to get it out. I went too fast, it didn’t bite so I had to go up a size on the extractor. Worked surprisingly well.
A better way of doing this (like my DS door) is to clean out the Phillips head screws with the tip of a pocket knife or dental pick and then use the hand impact to back them out. Much easier and less cursing involved.
Otherwise, 4 bottom screws, 1 or 2 behind the handle, and one hidden screw at rear of door and it pretty much pops off. I’d also remove your outer wiper seals if you have them at this time. There’s 4 or 5 metal tabs on the back. Just pull up and they come off. Don’t be a pansy about it, if you bend one of the metal tabs in frustration….hey you’re putting new ones on anyway.
Step 2: Remove old glass channel
First half of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raKdxJEJsJU
Basically just pull it out with your hands. It’s probably gonna crumble and you’ll be picking pieces off the ground, out of the door, but pretty straightforward. There is only 1 clip and that’s basically right above the door lock on the upper run. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry out pieces if needed, it’s all broken and junk anyway. If you can get the stuff to come up out of the door like in the video, reach in there (that’s why the panel is off) and pull it out from inside. If the vent window side breaks, don’t worry about it, you’ll get to it in the next step. The install of this is after you replace your vent window seals, so if you’re skipping that then you can just follow this video completely.
Step 3: Remove Vent Window Assembly
Start and Finish one complete side before starting the other!!!!
Video Links: 1aAuto https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3v6uZarxKA
Precision: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYzVbp9wyOo
Some guy at home: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9By0gl6VeE
To pull the assembly, take out the 3 screws along the front and top edge of the door and the 7/16” bolt below the window crank. You can remove the mirror brace as shown in the one of the videos but I was able to leave it in place. Once the assemble is out take out the window as shown in the videos. Drill out the pivot rivet and then take off spring assembly at bottom. Use channellocks or pliers to hold the bottom of the stud as you unscrew the nut, it can and will break. Also Pb’laster is your friend here (or other penetrant of choice). The hardware (from window down) should be: Funny stop washer (sets rotation limits), round washer, frame brace attached to frame, round washer, slotted washer, spring, nut lock, nut.
Below the brace hardware:
Now that the assembly is in 2 pieces, I was able to strip off the frame that held the glass (it’s a compression fit, shouldn’t be any glue there) and make sure all the old weatherstrip is peeled off. I did leave the rubber in the channel to hold the glass though, didn’t have a replacement for it handy. I then cleaned these up as best I could and masked off the chrome bits and the rubber to hold the glass in place. Just a wire brush, although scotchbrite would have worked just as well. Treated for rust and painted satin black.
Here is a good time to separate the frame into 2 pieces. Drill out the topmost rivet and the bottom 2 so you end up with one straight piece and one “L” shaped piece. Careful not to bend them too much as they are kinda flimsy when separate. Here you can see where I separated them:
Step 4: Replace Vent Window Seals
Ok, here’s the big one that I keep getting asked about. Yes, this sucks. Pulling the vent window wasn’t bad, reinstallation is about the same, but installing the new stuff in the frame….yikes. It’s a measure of patience but it is doable. Took me about 2 hours the first go around do to stubbornness. I tried it like the video without separating the frame and failed miserably. When I took the frame apart as I described in the previous step it was much easier. Not EASY, but easier.
The foaming window cleaner is a must here. It actually does lubricate and I used a bunch of it. Make sure your channels are clean of dirt and new paint and hit them with the window cleaner. Then spray the new seals and wipe down both. Once they’re clean start with the “L” frame and pick an end. I started on the long end and sprayed liberally with window cleaner. The Precision video (IMO) shows the best technique for installing the new seal…I used a screwdriver and a nylon tire tool (for changing road bike tires) to push it into place. It’s slow and can be frusterating but once you get the hang of it it only takes about 10-15 minutes. Again, lots of lubrication and patience and they will go into place. Mine were exactly the right shape and size and seal well (at least against the pouring rain we’ve had here in NOLA).
The straight edge was real simple to install, kinda shape it to the curve of the frame (once on the truck it kind of “bows out” with the curve of the door. Again, shown in video) and install, making sure each of the 5 tabs goes into it’s respective hole. Before you crimp the tabs, go ahead and set the “L” with it’s new seal on the straight piece. There are little pockets on the “L” pieces that fit together on the new straight seal so they make a complete seal. I used two pairs of vise grips to hold the “L” to the straight piece while I did this. After that is complete, go ahead and crimp the 5 tabs on the back of the seal.
Next, get your rivet of choice ready and undo one of the vise grips. I did the top first because it only had one to do. Rivet that back into place then move on to the other side. If you choose to go with the hand rivets, this will take a helper most likely. Undo the other clamp and while keeping the two pieces tight together, get one rivet in. Once it’s in place, you have a little more freedom and can get the second in without too much trouble. My pop riveter didn’t quite fit so the rivet closer to the corner on the bottom went in angled. I flattened it out with the rivet setter from classic with a couple of whacks.
My Anvil (base of the jack):
Congrats. The hardest part is over.
Step 5: Replace Vent Window Assembly
Ok, now just reassemble the vent window. Pop the glass back into it’s frame (if it doesn’t seat quite right you can take the frame off and tweak it a little to fit better) and reinstall this onto your newly sealed frame. Make sure you have all the hardware in place and in the right order. Double check the hardware. Then check it one more time (unless you’re like me and bought two sets of pivot rivets on the off chance you’re gonna assemble it wrong at least once). If the hardware matches the other side (it is still together, right?) drop your pivot rivet in from the top of the assembly. Flip assembly over so rivet is sitting on a hard surface (anvil, vise, corner of truck bed….) and set with hammer and rivet tool (an assistant makes this easier). Test window movement. If it all looks good, begin tightening nut at base to set tension. I kinda guessed here and when I thought my window was easy to open but not going to flop in the breeze I called it good. I may end up retightening with the install of my overdrive, but until then I think I’m ok.
Drop vent window assembly back into the door (opposite of removal with twisting around glass and other obstacles) and start the 7/16” bolt in the base (do not tighten yet). Install all 3 screws in the top of vent window (may take some pushing and massaging to get everything to line up, esp if you tweaked your frame during all this), tighten screws and tighten bolt.
***Side note, I have seen people install the felted channel here on the assembly before dropping in. Don’t see why not, I just didn’t think that far ahead.***
Step 6: Felted Glass Channel Install
Going back to step 2, continue as you see in the videos. Lots of foamy glass cleaner and this wasn’t actually all that bad. Probably 1/2 the work if you followed the hint above (which I didn’t). Make sure the little metal tab on the new seal goes to the front corner of the window and hooks in the vent window assembly. And the plastic thingy on the back goes in directly above the door lock (where the old one was that you probably had to remove with pliers).
When this is in, roll the window up and down fully a few times. Might also be a good idea to spray some grease (I use white lithium spray) on the gears of your window (while it’s up, unless you want to clean it off the glass). Make sure that the glass fully seats in the new channel when up, yes it’s gonna be a little tight. That’s what stops the rattles and wind and rain from coming in.
Step 7: Finishing touches
Take your door panel and gently pull off the inner felt piece. Replace with the new one (1100 81) and rehang the door panel. Put screws in and attach the window crank and you’re almost done!
Roll the window all the way down and install the outer wiper seal (1101 73). Make sure you get all the metal bits snapped into place ( I’m thinking there was 5 now…)and that the edges fit snugly up against the felted glass channel on both sides. If you see anything you don’t like (I had one small gap new my vent window, about the size of a pencil lead), a small dab of black RTV will seal it right up.
Last step is installing the door weatherstrip (1110 73).
I used this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=104&v=RrcWiBq2z1c
Use the hand impact to remove the plastic footsill screws (3) and pull this off. The weatherstripping should now just peel off, all the way around the door. No adhesive here. I had to clean out the groove near the pinchweld at the base in front of the seat, I’m pretty sure I found dust from the first Gulf War in there….. Also, I found a lot of moisture under my floormat (BUT NO RUST!!!!) so I dried all that out.
New seal goes on real easy, just start at the bottom and work your way around. I did as the video instructed and cut the seal about 1” long at the end, then worked both ends back to make that 1” fit. Supposedly these seals shrink some as they age and this stops a gap from forming. The door should close a lot tighter now and there shouldn’t be any rattles thanks to the new rubber.
Roll your windows up and and down a few times and open/close that new vent window. Open/shut the door a few times. If it all looks good, take it for a test drive with a passenger to check for leaks. Or, just go to the carwash if you’re feeling ballsy
I mentioned I was doing this and there were several members who were interested in a write-up of how it went. My M1028 is my daily driver and for this I wasn't at home in my shop for this. Most of it was done out on the street in New Orleans over the course of a few days. I'll try and list all the parts I bought first (and where I got them), and then the tools I needed. I'll also list the videos on youtube I used for reference as they were a big help during the process.
I will say, everything except the vent windows were a piece of cake. The vent windows were a PITA and were a major test of patience with the mosquitoes nipping at my ankles.
Parts ordered:
I used exclusively Precision weatherstripping as I had spoken with them on the phone and via email and had heard good things from other car guys on their other stuff. Everything fit as it should although some pieces did take a little more "massaging" than others. Ordered from JC Whitney. For the record, GM's design of the vent window sucks to work on.
Door Upper Weatherstrip Seals
***Goes on cab pinchweld and door shuts against it. If your door leaks around the opening, this is it.***
Mfr #: DWP 1110 73
Qty:1 (Comes as a pair, not side specific.)
Vent Window Glass Seals, Rubber
***This is the 2-piece seal. Apparently GM just kinda went willy-nilly on these, use this video to confirm if you have a 2-piece like mine, I suspect they all do. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YwM0piQ-OE)***
Mfr #: VWK 1110 81 A
Qty:1 (Comes as a pair so 4 total pieces, 2 "L" and 2 straight. RT/LH specific.)
Door Glass Flock Channel
***Goes inside door around top and sides of glass. Chances are yours is shot and brittle.***
Mfr #: GRL 1110 81
Qty:1 (Comes as a pair, they are RT/LH specific)
Door Glass Wiper Seal
***Goes on outside of glass at bottom of window and wipes glass as it goes up/down. Was missing on my truck***
Mfr #: WFL 1101 73 and WFR 1101 73
Qty:1 of Each (they are RT/LH specific)
Inner Door Glass Felted Wiper Seal
***Goes on inside of glass at bottom of window and wipes glass as it goes up/down. Attached to door panel trim.***
Mfr #: WFL 1100 81 and WFR 1100 81
Qty:1 of Each (they are RT/LH specific)
The following I ordered from Classic Industries as they were cheaper than anyone else. The first two are necessary, the third (03-825) is optional. You can replace it with pop rivets from Harbor Freight if you like as it’s much easier (just not original).
03-831 (1951-72) Vent Pivot Rivets
03-835 (1951-87) Vent Rivet Setting Tool
03-825 (1951-87) Vent Assembly Rivets (optional)
This is the Rivet Gun I used from HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/hand-riveters/hand-riveter-set-38353.html
I used the 5/32” rivets because the Hand Rivets from Classic are a PITA to do by yourself.
Tools Used
Phillips Screwdriver
Hand Impact (Harbor Freight $7.99)
Hammer
Flathead screwdriver
7/16” socket
1/2” socket
Foaming Glass Cleaner (Wal-mart $3)
Pliers/Channellocks
Window Handle remover ($9 from Autozone, optional but recommended)
Visegrips
Vise, Anvil, truck bed corner or other hard surface.
Rivet gun from Harbor Freight ($5)
Step 1: Remove Door Panel
Followed this video more or less: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mczSAD3egbw Learned a few things though:
Pull out the 2 screws in the armrest first. They tend to be corroded and nasty, I managed to strip my PS out trying to use a drill with a bit and had to use a screw extractor (another $9 to Harbor Freight). If this happens use the #3 bit at a slower speed to get it out. I went too fast, it didn’t bite so I had to go up a size on the extractor. Worked surprisingly well.
A better way of doing this (like my DS door) is to clean out the Phillips head screws with the tip of a pocket knife or dental pick and then use the hand impact to back them out. Much easier and less cursing involved.
Otherwise, 4 bottom screws, 1 or 2 behind the handle, and one hidden screw at rear of door and it pretty much pops off. I’d also remove your outer wiper seals if you have them at this time. There’s 4 or 5 metal tabs on the back. Just pull up and they come off. Don’t be a pansy about it, if you bend one of the metal tabs in frustration….hey you’re putting new ones on anyway.
Step 2: Remove old glass channel
First half of this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raKdxJEJsJU
Basically just pull it out with your hands. It’s probably gonna crumble and you’ll be picking pieces off the ground, out of the door, but pretty straightforward. There is only 1 clip and that’s basically right above the door lock on the upper run. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry out pieces if needed, it’s all broken and junk anyway. If you can get the stuff to come up out of the door like in the video, reach in there (that’s why the panel is off) and pull it out from inside. If the vent window side breaks, don’t worry about it, you’ll get to it in the next step. The install of this is after you replace your vent window seals, so if you’re skipping that then you can just follow this video completely.
Step 3: Remove Vent Window Assembly
Start and Finish one complete side before starting the other!!!!
Video Links: 1aAuto https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3v6uZarxKA
Precision: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYzVbp9wyOo
Some guy at home: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R9By0gl6VeE
To pull the assembly, take out the 3 screws along the front and top edge of the door and the 7/16” bolt below the window crank. You can remove the mirror brace as shown in the one of the videos but I was able to leave it in place. Once the assemble is out take out the window as shown in the videos. Drill out the pivot rivet and then take off spring assembly at bottom. Use channellocks or pliers to hold the bottom of the stud as you unscrew the nut, it can and will break. Also Pb’laster is your friend here (or other penetrant of choice). The hardware (from window down) should be: Funny stop washer (sets rotation limits), round washer, frame brace attached to frame, round washer, slotted washer, spring, nut lock, nut.
Below the brace hardware:
Now that the assembly is in 2 pieces, I was able to strip off the frame that held the glass (it’s a compression fit, shouldn’t be any glue there) and make sure all the old weatherstrip is peeled off. I did leave the rubber in the channel to hold the glass though, didn’t have a replacement for it handy. I then cleaned these up as best I could and masked off the chrome bits and the rubber to hold the glass in place. Just a wire brush, although scotchbrite would have worked just as well. Treated for rust and painted satin black.
Here is a good time to separate the frame into 2 pieces. Drill out the topmost rivet and the bottom 2 so you end up with one straight piece and one “L” shaped piece. Careful not to bend them too much as they are kinda flimsy when separate. Here you can see where I separated them:
Step 4: Replace Vent Window Seals
Ok, here’s the big one that I keep getting asked about. Yes, this sucks. Pulling the vent window wasn’t bad, reinstallation is about the same, but installing the new stuff in the frame….yikes. It’s a measure of patience but it is doable. Took me about 2 hours the first go around do to stubbornness. I tried it like the video without separating the frame and failed miserably. When I took the frame apart as I described in the previous step it was much easier. Not EASY, but easier.
The foaming window cleaner is a must here. It actually does lubricate and I used a bunch of it. Make sure your channels are clean of dirt and new paint and hit them with the window cleaner. Then spray the new seals and wipe down both. Once they’re clean start with the “L” frame and pick an end. I started on the long end and sprayed liberally with window cleaner. The Precision video (IMO) shows the best technique for installing the new seal…I used a screwdriver and a nylon tire tool (for changing road bike tires) to push it into place. It’s slow and can be frusterating but once you get the hang of it it only takes about 10-15 minutes. Again, lots of lubrication and patience and they will go into place. Mine were exactly the right shape and size and seal well (at least against the pouring rain we’ve had here in NOLA).
The straight edge was real simple to install, kinda shape it to the curve of the frame (once on the truck it kind of “bows out” with the curve of the door. Again, shown in video) and install, making sure each of the 5 tabs goes into it’s respective hole. Before you crimp the tabs, go ahead and set the “L” with it’s new seal on the straight piece. There are little pockets on the “L” pieces that fit together on the new straight seal so they make a complete seal. I used two pairs of vise grips to hold the “L” to the straight piece while I did this. After that is complete, go ahead and crimp the 5 tabs on the back of the seal.
Next, get your rivet of choice ready and undo one of the vise grips. I did the top first because it only had one to do. Rivet that back into place then move on to the other side. If you choose to go with the hand rivets, this will take a helper most likely. Undo the other clamp and while keeping the two pieces tight together, get one rivet in. Once it’s in place, you have a little more freedom and can get the second in without too much trouble. My pop riveter didn’t quite fit so the rivet closer to the corner on the bottom went in angled. I flattened it out with the rivet setter from classic with a couple of whacks.
My Anvil (base of the jack):
Congrats. The hardest part is over.
Step 5: Replace Vent Window Assembly
Ok, now just reassemble the vent window. Pop the glass back into it’s frame (if it doesn’t seat quite right you can take the frame off and tweak it a little to fit better) and reinstall this onto your newly sealed frame. Make sure you have all the hardware in place and in the right order. Double check the hardware. Then check it one more time (unless you’re like me and bought two sets of pivot rivets on the off chance you’re gonna assemble it wrong at least once). If the hardware matches the other side (it is still together, right?) drop your pivot rivet in from the top of the assembly. Flip assembly over so rivet is sitting on a hard surface (anvil, vise, corner of truck bed….) and set with hammer and rivet tool (an assistant makes this easier). Test window movement. If it all looks good, begin tightening nut at base to set tension. I kinda guessed here and when I thought my window was easy to open but not going to flop in the breeze I called it good. I may end up retightening with the install of my overdrive, but until then I think I’m ok.
Drop vent window assembly back into the door (opposite of removal with twisting around glass and other obstacles) and start the 7/16” bolt in the base (do not tighten yet). Install all 3 screws in the top of vent window (may take some pushing and massaging to get everything to line up, esp if you tweaked your frame during all this), tighten screws and tighten bolt.
***Side note, I have seen people install the felted channel here on the assembly before dropping in. Don’t see why not, I just didn’t think that far ahead.***
Step 6: Felted Glass Channel Install
Going back to step 2, continue as you see in the videos. Lots of foamy glass cleaner and this wasn’t actually all that bad. Probably 1/2 the work if you followed the hint above (which I didn’t). Make sure the little metal tab on the new seal goes to the front corner of the window and hooks in the vent window assembly. And the plastic thingy on the back goes in directly above the door lock (where the old one was that you probably had to remove with pliers).
When this is in, roll the window up and down fully a few times. Might also be a good idea to spray some grease (I use white lithium spray) on the gears of your window (while it’s up, unless you want to clean it off the glass). Make sure that the glass fully seats in the new channel when up, yes it’s gonna be a little tight. That’s what stops the rattles and wind and rain from coming in.
Step 7: Finishing touches
Take your door panel and gently pull off the inner felt piece. Replace with the new one (1100 81) and rehang the door panel. Put screws in and attach the window crank and you’re almost done!
Roll the window all the way down and install the outer wiper seal (1101 73). Make sure you get all the metal bits snapped into place ( I’m thinking there was 5 now…)and that the edges fit snugly up against the felted glass channel on both sides. If you see anything you don’t like (I had one small gap new my vent window, about the size of a pencil lead), a small dab of black RTV will seal it right up.
Last step is installing the door weatherstrip (1110 73).
I used this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=104&v=RrcWiBq2z1c
Use the hand impact to remove the plastic footsill screws (3) and pull this off. The weatherstripping should now just peel off, all the way around the door. No adhesive here. I had to clean out the groove near the pinchweld at the base in front of the seat, I’m pretty sure I found dust from the first Gulf War in there….. Also, I found a lot of moisture under my floormat (BUT NO RUST!!!!) so I dried all that out.
New seal goes on real easy, just start at the bottom and work your way around. I did as the video instructed and cut the seal about 1” long at the end, then worked both ends back to make that 1” fit. Supposedly these seals shrink some as they age and this stops a gap from forming. The door should close a lot tighter now and there shouldn’t be any rattles thanks to the new rubber.
Roll your windows up and and down a few times and open/close that new vent window. Open/shut the door a few times. If it all looks good, take it for a test drive with a passenger to check for leaks. Or, just go to the carwash if you’re feeling ballsy
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