airbornebandsman
Member
- 814
- 16
- 18
- Location
- Universal City, TX
So I was draining all the fluid out of my new (to me) winch and found the right drain plug is stripped. How would I go about getting the @#$% thing out? Thanks.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
drain plug stripped out
- Thread starter airbornebandsman
- Start date
I've got a similar situation with a fill plug on my rear differential. I'm not ready to tackle it yet, but my plan was to try two things:
1. Wrap some thin aluminum around my 1/2" drive extension and see if that'll snug it up enough to turn, or...
2. Find a star-drive bit that I can hammer into the hole and turn it out with that.
But...I'm curious to see what others will suggest.
1. Wrap some thin aluminum around my 1/2" drive extension and see if that'll snug it up enough to turn, or...
2. Find a star-drive bit that I can hammer into the hole and turn it out with that.
But...I'm curious to see what others will suggest.
Blacksmoke
New member
- 47
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Carthage, Mo
I am also unable to get my winch drain plug loose but it's not stripped. I may try to concentrate some heat just on the plug first, but one could take a cheap 3/8" extension, make sure it's seated as deeply as possible, then weld it to the plug.
jwaller
Active member
- 3,724
- 19
- 38
- Location
- Columbia, SC
heat it around the hole to expand the case. it will expand more and quicker than the plug. try also hitting it with a hammer to shock it loose.
Katahdin
Active member
- 1,303
- 24
- 38
- Location
- Scarborough, ME
LOL! I fixed your drain plug. Its funny what you can find with the search tool. (Mik sold me this winch)
I tried welding on a smaller bolt and the head snapped off with a breaker bar. Same thing happened with two nuts I welded on after that. It was the bolt that broke each time, not my juvenile welding job.
I ended up drilling a hole through the plug and relieving as much metal as I could with a die grinder. About 1/4 of the threads were showing inside the worm gear housing so it had been drivin in pretty good. I was able to grind down on the inside through the worm bearing ports. It took the full power of a 1/2 inch impact wrench and an old 15/16" head bumper bolt after that to spin it off. I also had to use heat and the impact on two other non-stripped plugs. I estimate the gun puts out 200ft lbs of torque in reverse.
It was a complete PITA and it took a good chunk of an afternoon but its out!
I tried welding on a smaller bolt and the head snapped off with a breaker bar. Same thing happened with two nuts I welded on after that. It was the bolt that broke each time, not my juvenile welding job.
I ended up drilling a hole through the plug and relieving as much metal as I could with a die grinder. About 1/4 of the threads were showing inside the worm gear housing so it had been drivin in pretty good. I was able to grind down on the inside through the worm bearing ports. It took the full power of a 1/2 inch impact wrench and an old 15/16" head bumper bolt after that to spin it off. I also had to use heat and the impact on two other non-stripped plugs. I estimate the gun puts out 200ft lbs of torque in reverse.
It was a complete PITA and it took a good chunk of an afternoon but its out!
Attachments
- 12,195
- 320
- 0
- Location
- gainesville, ga.
Try a 9/16 square stock, a lot of the plug holes are a bit bigger then 1/2 so when a 1/2 drive is used it strips out the hole on tight plugs,, also try metric square stock, this will get you sizes between standard sizes, what ever size is used, on a tight plug the square stock NEEDS to be a tight fit even to the point of being driven in. This applies to HEX holes as well as square