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Drash 28kw HVAC …. No power output

Light in the Dark

Light in the Dark

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Right category... just not a very common machine in the masses. I am sure someone who knows something about these will be by this thread.

Have you downloaded any troubleshooting manuals for this set? Whats the model number?
 
2

2Pbfeet

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That helps a bit. (I know nothing.) Did you look at the older thread here;
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tm-for-pu-821-t-pu-822a-t-power-plant.131746/# ?

It was a TMSS100G: Power Plant, Utility, PU-821/T, GREEN, NSN 6115-01-547-6713, DLA NSN 8340-01-533-5396, is a green system.

11-6115-742-13P
Generator part number HDT 1007206, aka PU-821 / PU-822A

There are copies on the web, Scribd, and others, but I haven't tried downloading.

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 
J

JerryK

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Guyfang said:
There are more models than grains of sand on the beach. I think you need some paint remover.

NSN: 8340-01-533-5396
Ser, # N26-11899-001 (I think)
Model # HP-2
Click to expand...
That’s correct after the HP-2 there’s 185/TMSS
Someone asked earlier if I’d downloaded the TM. Any idea where I can find a copy of that??Thx very much for the help …..J.
 
2

2Pbfeet

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@JerryK you could try any of these in your favorite search engine(s) and see what you get; use the phrase filetype, followed by a colon, followed by pdf, (no space from colon to pdf), I.e. "filetype"+":"+"pdf" instead of the emoticons below. (Anyone know how to quote text so the emoticons don't get in?)
Code: 
filetype:pdf "8340-01-533-5396"
filetype:pdf "11-6115-742-13P"
filetype:pdf "11-6115-742-13&P"
the last one is manual number for some units.
When I was poking around there were versions on scribd and Manualzz, but I would run any document from either place through a virus and malware checker before opening it.

As @Guyfang wrote above, if there are many models, I don't know that any of the results actually apply to your particular DRASH.

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 
Last edited:
P

Poccur

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In their nomenclature 185 is an 18kW with a 5 ton ECU,,,HP-2 is the trailer size. there is also an HP-4, 6 and 8....they carry more weight

If you have no voltage or low voltage you need to be sure where the fault lies...is it making voltage but not coming out of the breakers? Breakers can fail high resistance ....get to the generator head and see if it is actually making anything...if not, start with the SE350 voltage reg, check the fuse hidden on the back of the reg, if good, download the SE350 Marathon manual and look at constant excitation test...

That is a test you can do which will prove to you that the generator is capable of making voltage and being stable. That will put your mind at rest that the issue is the regulator.

If you unhook F+ and F- from the regulator then carefully attach the wires you pull off to a 12 volt battery. F+ to positive, F- to negative...That removes the regulator from the circuit and pushes 12vdc down into the generator. Leave wires connected and restart engine...voltage should shoot up to around 220 VDC and be stable...Basically the battery is taking the place of the regulator and exciting the field in the generator to make voltage.
When I do this test I use wires with an inline fuse as the car battery I have for the 12volts has way too many amps for safety if the wires ground out by accident....really recommend you use fuse or circuit breaker on battery wires.

Reconnect F+ and F-... if it made voltage on test but now not again, check fuses but likely regulator is dead. If not, you will have also flashed the field in the test and it should be working....
Be careful...read the reg manual till it makes sense...
Regards
Poccur
 
J

JerryK

New member
11
6
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Location
Fort Myers, Florida
Poccur said:
In their nomenclature 185 is an 18kW with a 5 ton ECU,,,HP-2 is the trailer size. there is also an HP-4, 6 and 8....they carry more weight

If you have no voltage or low voltage you need to be sure where the fault lies...is it making voltage but not coming out of the breakers? Breakers can fail high resistance ....get to the generator head and see if it is actually making anything...if not, start with the SE350 voltage reg, check the fuse hidden on the back of the reg, if good, download the SE350 Marathon manual and look at constant excitation test...

That is a test you can do which will prove to you that the generator is capable of making voltage and being stable. That will put your mind at rest that the issue is the regulator.

If you unhook F+ and F- from the regulator then carefully attach the wires you pull off to a 12 volt battery. F+ to positive, F- to negative...That removes the regulator from the circuit and pushes 12vdc down into the generator. Leave wires connected and restart engine...voltage should shoot up to around 220 VDC and be stable...Basically the battery is taking the place of the regulator and exciting the field in the generator to make voltage.
When I do this test I use wires with an inline fuse as the car battery I have for the 12volts has way too many amps for safety if the wires ground out by accident....really recommend you use fuse or circuit breaker on battery wires.

Reconnect F+ and F-... if it made voltage on test but now not again, check fuses but likely regulator is dead. If not, you will have also flashed the field in the test and it should be working....
Be careful...read the reg manual till it makes sense...
Regards
Poccur
Click to expand...
Where can I find that manual ? I looked on here but I quite possibly overlooked it. Fuse was good ready to do the test to bypass regulator… your help is greatly appreciated brother thank you
 
2

2Pbfeet

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J

JerryK

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JerryK said:
Drash 28kw w Isuzu 4cyl diesel putting out extremely low power or none at all.. ANY HELP WOULD B MOST APPRECIATED
Click to expand...
I WANTED TO THANK ALL MY BROTHERS THAT HELPED WITH THIS!!! I RAN THE TEST YESTERDAY identified that the regulator was scorched and generator was making steady power.. without the help from the real people on this site . This steel soldier would be dead…. Thank You. JK
 
J

jamawieb

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The unit you have is rare and not very many people deal with them. Im one of the few. POCCUR is the expert on any HDT HVAC unit. He developed and worked for HDT and he has helped me tremendously over the years. The manuals are not available, only from HDT.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
J

JerryK

New member
11
6
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Location
Fort Myers, Florida
jamawieb said:
The unit you have is rare and not very many people deal with them. Im one of the few. POCCUR is the expert on any HDT HVAC unit. He developed and worked for HDT and he has helped me tremendously over the years. The manuals are not available, only from HDT.
Click to expand...
Thanks brother I’m going to msg him
 
J

JerryK

New member
11
6
3
Location
Fort Myers, Florida
JerryK said:
Where can I find that manual ? I looked on here but I quite possibly overlooked it. Fuse was good ready to do the test to bypass regulator… your help is greatly appreciated brother thank you
Click to expand...
Poccur said:
In their nomenclature 185 is an 18kW with a 5 ton ECU,,,HP-2 is the trailer size. there is also an HP-4, 6 and 8....they carry more weight

If you have no voltage or low voltage you need to be sure where the fault lies...is it making voltage but not coming out of the breakers? Breakers can fail high resistance ....get to the generator head and see if it is actually making anything...if not, start with the SE350 voltage reg, check the fuse hidden on the back of the reg, if good, download the SE350 Marathon manual and look at constant excitation test...

That is a test you can do which will prove to you that the generator is capable of making voltage and being stable. That will put your mind at rest that the issue is the regulator.

If you unhook F+ and F- from the regulator then carefully attach the wires you pull off to a 12 volt battery. F+ to positive, F- to negative...That removes the regulator from the circuit and pushes 12vdc down into the generator. Leave wires connected and restart engine...voltage should shoot up to around 220 VDC and be stable...Basically the battery is taking the place of the regulator and exciting the field in the generator to make voltage.
When I do this test I use wires with an inline fuse as the car battery I have for the 12volts has way too many amps for safety if the wires ground out by accident....really recommend you use fuse or circuit breaker on battery wires.

Reconnect F+ and F-... if it made voltage on test but now not again, check fuses but likely regulator is dead. If not, you will have also flashed the field in the test and it should be working....
Be careful...read the reg manual till it makes sense...
Regards
Poccur
Click to expand...
Thank you VERY MUCH for the advice and tech support. I’ve purchased a new VR it’s a besler BE 350 roughly 400$ less than the 350 marathon. For this 18kw/5 should it be set for 50 or 60Hz the marathon was set @50 is it possible this is what scorched it?? Any advice for installing the new one? Can’t really afford to cook another VR… again THANK U for your information and help J.
 
P

Poccur

Active member
203
134
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Location
Roanoke, VA
JerryK said:
Thank you VERY MUCH for the advice and tech support. I’ve purchased a new VR it’s a besler BE 350 roughly 400$ less than the 350 marathon. For this 18kw/5 should it be set for 50 or 60Hz the marathon was set @50 is it possible this is what scorched it?? Any advice for installing the new one? Can’t really afford to cook another VR… again THANK U for your information and help J.
Click to expand...
They are simple to install. Just wire it in like the one you took out (you might want to buzz it out also, 3+4 are phases, F+ and F- go to generator head) If the generator was US then the 18kW would have made 208 so you need 60Hz...
If you wire it right, the worst that happens is you accidently knock out the residual charge and it makes 0v. If that happens, run the residual charge test again to prove the generator still works and you get the added bonus of flashing the field at the same time. Reconnect the wires and you should be good.
 
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