Driveline vibrations, hub lock-outs, stiff transmission, and

[SrpntHntr]

The previous thread on the lock-outs for the rear axles has confused me more than clarified things for me, I never considered putting a lock-out on the REAR but I am going to put them on the front since I have an air disconnect T-case. Is the steering improvement really that noticeable? I could care less abouut mileage, I'd get a yugo if I wanted 50MPG but better fuel economy is indicative of less strain on the machinery. All interesting possibilities for a "bolt-on" guy like myself. My current source of anxiety is a harmonic vibration that seems to originate somewhere behind the transmission, I can feel it in the T-case shifter but not the trans. shifter. The vibes seem to come and go in series, several second intervals, especially when the drivelines are not under power, say when I kick it out of gear to coast to a stop. At 40 - 45 MPH the vibes seem to go away. I figured a U-joint (plenty of opportunities) but after a nice 30 mile drive that should have heated a dry cap or bad bearing up I can't find a hot spot or any slop. The diffs (rear two, front is cold) are warm to touch, hubs same temps if not cooler, diff inputs on top are slightly warmer than bottom of the pumpkin but they have less mass so I X'd them off the list, no warm U-joints, the T-case is warmer than the diffs but comfortable to touch other than the smear of hypoid gear oil I can still smell. Transmission is warmer than diffs but not as warm as T-case, all parts were well under 100 degrees F. So much for an input or output bearing getting hot. The rear tires were nominally warmer than ground temps but fronts were a little warm but they have some cupping so I expected some friction. (I feel the front tire vibes, they are not what I'm worried about) What is the most common failure in these drivelines? My idea is to just start yankin' pieces off until the vibes go away then I have the guilty party. If it doesn't go away with driveshaft removals then it must be the T-case? Can I pull the rear driveshaft from T-case to front rear axle and drive it in "front wheel drive"? I know these are big mean machines not Cadillacs but I'm a vibration hatin' SOB, vibes are indicative or excess wear and I don't wanna think about this pig dying on the road a 100 miles from my toolbox. Anyone have an air-lock T-case and transmission for cheap in the Kansas, Oklahoma, N. Texas area? I spose it's time to start rebuilding pieces and parts for the inevitable, I've had this thing less than 2 months and already put a 1,000 miles on it just toolin' around town. The transmission is a real bear to shift as well, I need a cheater pipe for 2nd and 4th gives me a grind every once in awhile, synchros? I'm now nervous to take my new pet far from home and that just sux, I wanted to go to the farm this weekend so Gramps could play around with it. Any ideas on how to quell my fears and find the vibes would be appreciated. Thanx,

 

[Monster Man]

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[Recovry4x4]

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