Dual Voltage Alternator

[SGT LongT]

A little background info first. The HMMWV is a 24v system and not a hybrid like ours, but some HMMWV versions had 200amp and 400amp dual 24v/12v alternators I found the reason behind this was to provide power to the transmission controller when the transmission became electronically controlled. The alternators on a HMMWV are located on the drivers side right where one of our alternators sit.

So my idea is this. Use the mounting hardware from the donor HMMWV (6.2 or 6.5) and install a dual voltage alternator. Some of the Deuce guys have done it and had to install a separate batter for 12v. Keep the 24v system the way it is, but switch all the 12v electronics over to the new third battery. This would clear up some room over on the passenger side of the engine for A/C, on board air compressor, turbo, or converting the alternator for welding just to name a few ideas.

I now open up the floor to critiques, comments, and general mayhem

 

[idM1028]

Here comes the crazy "Lets switch the truck over to 12V" guy! http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf Parts are easier to find, the rewiring is minor, you still keep both batteries, you can keep the passenger side alt and have the drivers side free for AC, a turbo will still fit the engine, etc., etc. Just my Theres very little that is 24V on CUCV's; the starter is 24V and theres 24V going through some components (I've popped circuit testers on the GP relay before) everything else is 12V.

 

[SGT LongT]

Bumping this because I don't want this to die.......

 

[ken]

The A/C compressor for the 6.2 sits on the drivers side. It might be easier to use a setup from a M1010 amby. Then you could mount your A/C or air compressor on the drivers side. Or install a eletric compressor on the drivers side fender well.

 

[hogtruck]

What about adapting one of these? As IDM stated, you really have two 12v systems that work as one to start the engine, then return to 12v operation(oversimplification)

 

[skysix]

Where can I get some more info on this idea? I am assuming that you can get 24v x 200A OR 12v x 400A - is that right? Or does it give you two 200A 12v outputs sharing a common lead (so you could charge the stock CUCV system as-is)? If not, does it put out 12v and 24 v simultaneously - with what lead configuration and how many amps on each? How large physically are they (ie, can I mount one on the pass side in the same location as the stock 12v alternator without interferance with the battery tray?)

I am running dual Odyssey group 31's in parallel in each battery tray (2300 CCA / 200 AHr total) so can either run 24v across the combined series/parallel pair and save space for the A/C compressor or 12v to each battery pair like stock... 200A per pair would be nice - since I have effectively double the battery of the stock design (1225 CCA if you use a drop in replacements from Odyssey).

The 200A x 24v input across my whole system (4 batteries) would be essentially equivalent to the stock 100A x 12v isolated ground alternators per battery (in my system currently the stock alternators effectively give 50A to each of the 2 batteries they service). I could probably do the same with an M1010 alternator. Not really much good in the "making space for the A/C" area if I would have to use 2 of them to return to 100A of charging capacity per battery.

And I still have a bank of three 6v Optima's (1800 CCA) that are a self-boost system (bringing 21v back to 28v when switched into the circuit) that I need to figure out how to charge. Curently I think I will have to use three 6v Solargizers...