Dump modification help for a M101A2 - (Got the first half done)

[stereoman405]

Just picked up a cherry M101A2 last weekend. Thing just had a new coat of paint and new tires put on in late '09.

Well I've gotten it to dump already (removed pins, unhooked light wire to give slack, and unloosened the two 'mid frame' bolts.) My problem is getting it to line back up when you bring it down. I'm thinking a block on the top of the frame to limit the drop, then maybe grind down the thickness of the tabs to a taper to allow it to fit in better together. Also is there a 'store bought' pin replacement I can get for the two main bolts? I was going to have my buddy machine new ones for me but it would be nice to save him the hassle. Something with a tapered point and maybe a cotter pin?

Last, how much do you loosen the two mid point pivot bolts? I had them with about 1/8" of slop when I tested it and didn't know if that could've been part of my aligment issue.

Thanks!

 

[RJM27]

I've been dumping gravel with my M101A2 quite a bit, Never loosen the mid point pivot bolts. I broke the shackel bracket(My bad stupid move!!!). So I got trailer 2 going, They work great. You can get 1/2 " pins from Tractor Supply, they come tapper and have handle. also I reemed out the holes to 5/8.

 

[AceHigh]

I took a big wrench and bent the tabs of the lower tabs inward and it drops in place perfectly. Also I took one of the old pins to Tractor Supply and got 2 pins that are next size smaller with keepers on the ends. Made the whole dump process real easy.

 

[AceHigh]

Here is a pic of the Tractor Supply mod. Both of us above did this, just used different sizes...

Bending in the lower tabs make the job easy.

 

[stereoman405]

Awesome! Thanks for the ideas. Its funny how you can spend a bunch of time scratching your head at a problem and then a fresh set of eyes comes up with a better solution.

I like the "bend the tabs" approach better then the grinding idea. Doesn't expose the metal or remove material from a strength stand point. Now I just need to figure out a good way to bend them, that stuff is pretty stout.... Hmmmm, maybe pipe wrench and a long piece of pipe over the handle.....

Anyone have the length of those bolts handy? I could pick some up on the way home today possibly.

It sounds like a spacer block really isn't necessary? Once I bend these in and get the tapered pins it should go together pretty easy? Just a little lifting?

 

[AceHigh]

I just used a large Crescent wrench, heated the first tab but it bent surprisingly easy so from that point just put the wrench on and bent.

The pins were 3/8 by 4 1/4 hitch pins. Overall length is longer, but that is how it was sold.

BTW mine is a M116, so no sides but should be the same otherwise. Spacer block is a great idea but I just use a prybar to equalize it.

 

[stereoman405]

I just used a large Crescent wrench, heated the first tab but it bent surprisingly easy so from that point just put the wrench on and bent.

The pins were 3/8 by 4 1/4 hitch pins. Overall length is longer, but that is how it was sold.

BTW mine is a M116, so no sides but should be the same otherwise. Spacer block is a great idea but I just use a prybar to equalize it.

Thanks!

Very helpful.

 

[stereoman405]

Ok, after much cursing and one broken 5/8 bit I finally have the pins in.

One more question, are the parking brakes enough once you actually have a load in the trailer for the bed to lift? Or do I need chocks? I'm trying to picture how well it would tip if it was full of firewood or gravel. Or am I fine with the parking brakes as long as I have some weight distributed to the back?

 

[RJM27]

A little extra in the back will certainly help it dump easier, my brakes have been enough. I also carry a 5' digging bar or large pry
bar to get it started. Make sure you have stops installed so when the box returns it can't go past your holes. If not that pry
bar will get you lined back up.
bob.