Electrical access behind seat?

[JCKnife]

OK, I've searched this site for "electric passenger seat" in the Deuce forum, and I searched the term "electric" in both the -10 and -20 technical manuals. And I STILL need to ask this question:

In some of the dome light threads, people talk of patching into electrical access behind or beneath the passenger seat. All I see behind / beneath mine is the big wires running to the slave cable port. Am I missing something else?

 

[mckeeranger]

The only other thing I can think of is a radio harness. One of our trucks has the radio mount under the seat, and has power to that.

Perhaps some trucks have power for the convoy lights?

 

[wreckerman893]

Perhaps some trucks have power for the convoy lights?

That would be my guess.....a lot of modifications allowed for patching into the wiring harness to get a hot wire.

You can always come off the batteries if you need high amp power.

Just remember to protect the wires from abrasion (deuces don't vibrate do they) wherever they pass through a piece of metal.

 

[JCKnife]

That would be my guess.....a lot of modifications allowed for patching into the wiring harness to get a hot wire.

You can always come off the batteries if you need high amp power.

Just remember to protect the wires from abrasion (deuces don't vibrate do they) wherever they pass through a piece of metal.

Yeah, I think I'm gonna pass my hot wire thru the slave cable grommet straight to the battery. Now I'm just looking for clean metal to ground to. I'll find something. The more challenging one will be the light I mount in the bed, er, cargo area. Whatever.

Thanks!

 

[JCKnife]

Hey, while I've got y'all--an in-line fuse for these tank dome lights should be what amperage?

 

[drgreg]

If you don't know the amperage of the actual load, it is a good rule to size your fuse to protect the wire. So if the wire is #12 use a 20amp fuse, #14 wire use a 15amp, etc. These would be Max fuse size. For a cargo light, I would guess that a 5amp would work just fine. If it blows, I was wrong.

 

[Carl_in_NH]

DrGreg provides good advice here. Also place the inline fuse very close to the battery positive terminal - making the shortest possible unfused wire length between the positive terminal and the fuseholder. The less unprotected wire you've got the better for safety.

I've been using the inline moulded ATO style fuse holders with the rubber overcap; weather and acid proof - which is good down in the deuce battery box. Only cost a couple bucks, and much more weather resistant than the older inline glass 3AG fuse holders.