Electrical mystery

[Boatcarpenter]

Sunday, while on a short drive to get the truck up to temp to circulate water as part of a system flush, I lost all electrical power with a pop from the battery area. Assumed it was the main battery ground so cleaned it all up and put it back together. I have power at the slave cable socket, the two # 11 wires at the main switch, continuity through the switch. I also have power into and out of the horn breaker. But, turning on the switch excites nothing. No heater, no horn solenoid, no lights, no starter button action, no nuthin!!!! Have I lost all grounding between the whole dash panel and the rest of the truck? If I have, is there a dedicated ground strap for grounding or is it just through the bolts?
Any ideas appreciated.
Thanks,
BC

 

[rizzo]

check the ground to the fram behind the bat box.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

I already did that and the one from the cab to engine.

 

[ken]

It grounds through the bolts. I know you checked the switch, But i would try jumping around the switch and see. Are the wires brittle and loosing the insulation?

 

[devilman96]

A quick test...

On the starters solenoid... Using the Batt + terminal and the start button terminal use a jumper between the two to bump the starter over (apply common sense, in neutral, engine kill pulled, ign switch off). If it spins over the problem is in the wiring harness. If it does not the problem is in the battery cables or starter.

 

[rizzo]

A quick test...

On the starters solenoid... Using the Batt + terminal and the start button terminal use a jumper between the two to bump the starter over (apply common sense, in neutral, engine kill pulled, ign switch off). If it spins over the problem is in the wiring harness. If it does not the problem is in the battery cables or starter.

could you use a light tester or a volt meter?

 

[devilman96]

Yes and no... The problem with battery cables and grounds sometimes is that they will show voltage but will not carry amperage so you think they are good but are not... Being that he saw a arc I am guessing a bad connection but when your chasing something its often times easier to give her the good ole manual bypass and see what side of the system you need to be blaming.

If you bypass the trucks wiring and it works you know the cables, battries and starter are good... so you need to look at the truck... and vice versa... also since you are standing at the starter it also helps to see if your getting an arc somewhere or hot cables due to poor connection.

If you want to be fancy about it make up a start button with wires and clips... this also works great for doing your own valve adjustments with out having solder B... Using the button you can bump it over and get the valves set without getting up and down 400 times.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Thanks for the tips guys. Haven't had a chance to check it out anymore yet due to work and Planning Board and Zoning Board meetings tonight. Will get after it tomorrow some and post any finding if there are any.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

So today I started at the positive terminal of the battery to trace power right through the system to find out what was wrong. Didn't take long. Found #10 wire cooked right at the terminal lug where it attaches to the magnetic starter relay. Had to chase around town for a proper connector to repair it. Got it fixed and fired up the truck. Was trying different things and now find I have a dead short in the lighting system, which is what probably caused the weakened #10 wire to finally fry the other day. Oh well, something to do tomorrow after work!!

 

[rizzo]

what does "dead short" mean?

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Rizzo, I have no idea if it is a proper electrical term or not, but it is just what I have always called a situation where you have a hot wire in contact with something (usually ground) that causes sparks and an instantaneous blown fuse or breaker. More properly, it would just be called a short circuit I guess.

 

[bottleworks]

That would be a "Short to Ground" short.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Thanks for clearing that up bottleworks, no more "dead shorts" in my vocabulary!

 

[jodka]

Boatcarpenter: You can put "dead short" back in your vocabulary. Your understanding and use term was correct. Here is a definition:

"dead short - Short circuit having zero resistance."

from:
http://www.answers.com/topic/dead-short

The definition says zero resistance, but of course that must also really mean near-zero resistance.

That seems to match the definition which you gave in different words: "a situation where you have a hot wire in contact with something (usually ground) that causes sparks and an instantaneous blown fuse or breaker."

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Consider it back in the vocabulary. Thanks jodka!!

 

[cranetruck]

Guess you beat that into the ground.

 

[jodka]

Cranetruck is amping up the humor, but be careful; That can meet with resistance from those who don't get a charge out of it.

 

[bottleworks]

Hmm, new term to me...Or is it an old term? Anyway, Any luck finding the short yet? On my truck, the wiring is starting to break apart. It's one more thing I am trying to avoid having to deal with. First the A/C system...

 

[Boatcarpenter]

bottleworks,
The short was a bad brake light switch. The switch was leaking badly so I pulled the connector, turned on the lights and all was well. Have got the airpack and the switch replaced but now the master cylinder is leaking around the boot. So, have one coming monday.