Expert opinion requested

[dw9339]

Two quick questions:

1) (First question has two parts) a) I bled the brakes and it was not incredibly hard. Tedious, sure, but not hard. The back left wheel had an issue where no fluid came out when I loosened the bleeding screw 1 full revolution. I continued, and it finally started coming out the sides on revolution 2 or 3, but certainly not down the middle where the bleeding tube goes. I'm thinking that the screw is faulty. True/false? b) Also, the middle right wheel did not have any fluid come out. At all. I took the screw all the way out. To check the pressure, I tried the master cylender and fluid came out just fine. My question is can I get this to the shop so they can take a look with the brakes in this condition?

2) Does the fuel filter look OK? From pictures I've seen on the interweb, I'm not sure if it is missing the bottom part or not. See attached picture.

 

[tiger422]

I think you should get someone with mechanical experience to help you. Brake bleeders get clogged up sometimes and that is not your fuel filter.

Jim

 

[Srjeeper]

dw,

If your brakes are not working properly leave the truck where it is till you have them working correctly.
If I'm understanding you correctly, I'd say get yourself some new bleeders and start over with the bleeding.
They do get clogged or rusted shut so start with good bleeders.

As for the indicator in the picture, that's for the air filter, not fuel filter. When you start to see yellow in the little window near the top, it's time to change the air cleaner.

Read your TM every chance you get and before long it will all start to fall in place.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I'm by no means an expert but take a crack at this. About that filter, it's not a fuel filter but an indicator to tell you if your air cleaner is dirty. If the red band is visible when running, the air filter needs replaced. The back left bleeder screw sounds clogged. Remove it and poke some wire in the holes from both directions and blow it out, should be fine. Something is wrong if that middle wheel is not flowing fluid. Explain how you bled the system, knowing that we may be able to offer some extra insight.

 

[dw9339]

Woops!! Don't know why I thought that was the fuel filter, and as my wife will attest, I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer.

Thanks for all the replies!

For the brakes, dang, I'd like to get it to the shop for them to take a look. It is about 10 miles away. Previously the pedal was going straight to the floor. Now it gives me pressure, and if I stomp on the pedal it will still get to the floorboard, but there is resistance.

 

[Recovry4x4]

There is resistance now because there is some fluid in the system. It goes to the floor because there is also air in the system. Explain how you bled it and we will try to help but we need that info.

 

[dw9339]

Filled reservoir to 1/2" from top, put cap back on and hose back in cap. It was wrench tight. Started with the master cylinder. Turned 3/4 of a turn or so until fluid came out. It came out for about three seconds or so with no air, so I turned it back to stop the flow, and then wrench tightened the valve. Refill master, repeat for all the wheels, starting with back right and moving towards the master cylinder. The two exceptions to that process were the back left tire where it looks like the valve is clogged and the middle right where the valve came all the way out with no fluid whatsoever.

Follow-up question: If I open the reservoir now to check the fluid level, do I need to re-bleed everything?

 

[Recovry4x4]

Follow-up question: If I open the reservoir now to check the fluid level, do I need to re-bleed everything?

No, you can certainly open it up. I wouldn't drive it the way it is, that is for sure. Perhaps a member close you your area will answer up and lend a hand. Not to be too critical but I don't think you have a thorough understanding of the brake system and thus should seek some help with it until you do. The brakes are the last thing you need to skimp on or repair incorrectly. What part of Texas are you in? Post that info might get you some help.

 

[WillWagner]

Read the TM, brakes on these are nuttin to take a chance with. You should start at the MC, then air pack, then wheel cylinders. Get a pressure bleeder or make one. It makes life much easier.

Read the manuals first. They are free in the resources section.

 

[vtdeucedriver]

I'm by no means an expert but take a crack at this.

Well we have a whole forum full of experts dont we kenny????? I am no expert but I am sure we know a thing or two about deuces and 5 tons. Tho I could be wrong...............maybe my tractor DOES have the wrong transmission installed

 

[dw9339]

Read the TM, brakes on these are nuttin to take a chance with. You should start at the MC, then air pack, then wheel cylinders. Get a pressure bleeder or make one. It makes life much easier.

Read the manuals first. They are free in the resources section.

Is there something that I did not do that the manual specifies? I used this one: T M 9 - 2 3 2 0 - 2 0 9 - 2 0 - 3 - 2

 

[Srjeeper]

dw, till you have brakes you trust, your better off keeping the truck parked.

Try reading manuals TM 9-2320-361-20, that's the Maintenance Manual.

TM 9-2320-361-34 is the Technical Manual.

As others have mentioned, let us know what area of Texas your in. I'm sure you'll find there's SS brothers or sisters not to far away to lend a hand.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Better safe than sorry.........

 

[rlwm211]

From your posts, I would wager you almost have the system bled out.

You need to find out why you are not getting fluid at the one rear you are trying to bleed. Chances are the bleeder is plugged. Clean as follows.

Take the bleeder out. From the rear, or outside, the center has a hole that goes way inside the bleeder, but not all the way to the end.

Use an appropriate drill with your fingers and carefully clean it out. The end that goes into the wheel cylinder is shaped like a cone. One or two holes will go through to the center hole. Use a paper clip or exceedingly small drill bit or torch cleaner to open the hole(s). Be very careful to not mar the cone area of the bleeder as that is where the seal is made to the boss in the wheel cylinder. Once you know the bleeder is open, clean it carefully with brake cleaner or some sort of solvent, dry, and reinstall it in the wheel cylinder.
That will resolve the bleeder problem.

I would bleed the brakes again, starting at the back, working forward.

CHECK THE MASTER AFTER EACH WHEEL!!!!!!

Remember if you let the master run out of fluid you have to start over. The master cyklinder piston is rather large so each pedal push moves a lot of fluid and although there may be an inch in the master when you check, when you push the pedal, that may not be enough to keep the intake port covered allowing air to enter the system.

I believe once you have the system bled, you will have a good pedal and good brakes. This does not take into account any adjustment problems you may have with your brake shoes, but that is a project for another day.

Hope this helps

RL
​

 

[Farmun]

In your brake bleeding process, was Soldier B holding pressure on the brake pedal, while Soldier A was opening the bleeder screws? Your description of how you bled the brakes didn't mention it. Just wondering....

 

[dw9339]

rlwm, thanks for the detailed explanation. I will try that this evening.

I didn't have a soldier b so to speak, I just had a stick that I wedged against the brake pedal. That is some redneck engineering!

 

[kipman]

Build a brake bleeder, you are fighting a uphill battle, it is very simple, I used a new garden sprayer.

 

[Barrman]

Where are you?

 

[rlwm211]

You need a "SOLDIER B" in order to bleed the brakes without a pressure bleeder.

I have used my 7 year old son, who actually did better than some adults who have insisted they knew how to bleed brakes who offered to help me.

RL​

 

[OL AG '89]

I'm in Kingwood area N. of houston.
My second favorite hobby is Bleeding

Brakes that is, so if you need some help
I'll be soldier B, as I can also read (Texas Aggie) WHOOP!!
DON'T drive this behemoth WITHOUT the brakes working properly!!!!
We have enough road issues without someone running a duece over and or through a wheeler.....

 

[m16ty]

I didn't have a soldier b so to speak, I just had a stick that I wedged against the brake pedal. That is some redneck engineering!

That won't work very well because when you crack the bleeder the pedal will start to fall and you need a person in there to maintain pressure.

As others have said, do a search here on "pressure bleeder". That is by far the easiest way to bleed the brakes and it only requires one person.