• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Factory style floor covering. Who's the best?

Tinstar

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,289
1,775
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
I know there are several companies making these including LMC.
Ive looked at the pictures here and read the threads.

Who makes the best one since GM quit making them?

The guys that have installed them, how are yours holding up?
Install issues?
Does the insulation work as advertised?
Tear easily? Hold up to daily use?
What brand?

I have seen some pics here on SS that some installs look really good and some look like it didn't fit worth a darn.

Any insight is appreciated
 
B

BradL84D30M1008

Member
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
I ordered the 1/8" thick MIP floor mat from LMC (part #38-2941), it should be here later this week.

I'll take some pics and let you know what I think.

My +30 yr old OEM mat is completely toast, separated/tears in it in several places, but jute backing seems in decent shape.
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,473
10,427
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
In Pennsylvania that jute and rubber mat is the roof/covering of a rust whore house. I have removed every mat from every CUCV I owned. I even think that a bare CARC painted floor is better then any floor covering. Especially if you are using the truck for work like I do. I had mine sprayed with Line X. I wash my cab floor out with a scrub brush and hose and in 2 hours it is clean and dry. That Jute never gets dry. Rust never sleeps and I have never seen a grain of sand that I want in my bed. Ever notice all the crud that accumulates on the sides of the mat near the kick panels? I know I am off topic but wanted to share my thoughts and add a few ideas. Bare CARC floor has held up for 5 years with just a hint of wear thru on the drivers side at the gas/brake pedal area. that is on a hard used truck like my Mule M1009. Gently used garage kept. Put a mat in it but do away with the jute. IMHO. Friendly debate. Have a Great day.
 
B

BradL84D30M1008

Member
159
5
18
Location
Houston/TX
I appreciate all advice......While replacing door weatherstripping and kick panels over the weekend, I did use shop vac to remove all crud from the door sills, and those were in excellent shape.....I did notice some surface rust on the floor pan nearby on driver's side.....once I get the new cover in from LMC I'll pull the old OEM cover and jute and see what shape floor pans are in.

I've linered floors in vehicles previously (Herculiner) and was never that pleased with my end work product.

cucvrus said:
In Pennsylvania that jute and rubber mat is the roof/covering of a rust whore house. I have removed every mat from every CUCV I owned. I even think that a bare CARC painted floor is better then any floor covering. Especially if you are using the truck for work like I do. I had mine sprayed with Line X. I wash my cab floor out with a scrub brush and hose and in 2 hours it is clean and dry. That Jute never gets dry. Rust never sleeps and I have never seen a grain of sand that I want in my bed. Ever notice all the crud that accumulates on the sides of the mat near the kick panels? I know I am off topic but wanted to share my thoughts and add a few ideas. Bare CARC floor has held up for 5 years with just a hint of wear thru on the drivers side at the gas/brake pedal area. that is on a hard used truck like my Mule M1009. Gently used garage kept. Put a mat in it but do away with the jute. IMHO. Friendly debate. Have a Great day.
Click to expand...
 
Tinstar

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,289
1,775
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
It's bare floor now. Zero rust. I took out factory liner when I bought truck.
Had several surplus mud flaps and I'm using two as floor mats.
I vacuum out dirt weekly as ranch work isn't clean.

I know about the dangers of trapping moisture, but I'm wanting to keep heat out.
Its driven everyday and the longer drives transfers a lot of heat into the floor/cab.

Not a fan of Line-X in cab. Have it in my pickup beds, but do not want it on the floor. That's just me.
 
antennaclimber

antennaclimber

Moderator
Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,367
949
113
Location
State College, PA
http://www.stockinteriors.com/moldedvinyl.asp?Itemid=21791&MakeId=31&ModelId=94

Are you doing a M1008 or M1009 truck? I purchased 2 of these for 2 M1009 trucks.

The first one fit pretty well. It's not an exact fit and does not have any holes punched in it for the seats, seat belts etc.
The second one did not fit as well as the first one. Seemed to be too big.

They have held up very well to wear and so far no rips or other issues. I also installed Fat Mat and the jute padding, this made the interior of the M1009 much quieter.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
Barrman

Barrman

Well-known member
5,259
1,769
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
We did the LMC thick rubber floor mat front and rear with the LMC insulation on RED when Colton built it 4 years ago. It has held up very well to high school life. Super quiet inside at any speed compared to all of my other trucks except for the just on the road yesterday Cowdog M1007.

The Cowdog has factory Suburban carpet with QuitCool insulation everywhere. That truck is very, very quiet inside. I will find out this afternoon when I leave work in full sun 90° how good it does with heat.
 
coecamo

coecamo

Member
42
0
6
Location
Canton Mich
When I did my cab I bought
LMC jute pad 38-2904 and Black molded carpet 38-2773. The original rubber mat cracked allowing water to stay on floor pan and rust away jute mat allows it to evaporate
 
sneekyeye

sneekyeye

Active member
253
134
43
Location
ALABAMA
I'm putting down Herculiner once I get around to redoing my floor. My mat is all torn up, and the floor is rusting under the pad in places. I used a 20 dollar off over 75 dollar purchase on a gallon of the stuff at Autozone.
 
Tinstar

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,289
1,775
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
M1008A1

Im just looking to go back to original style.
No fancy sound liner or anything spray in.

Just wanting to know which brand has held up best. I don't want cheap and then have to replace it a year or two down the road.
They all will "look" good when new. It's how they hold up to daily use and proper fit is what I'm wondering.

I use the same anti-corrosion stuff on my trucks that we use on the helos. Works extremely well.
That will be sprayed on floor before install.
 
Tinstar

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,289
1,775
113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
ACF50
Very well known in aviation circles
Edit: It can be used in a pump spray bottle application or aerosol can. I use the can.


Expensive, but works extremely well.
 
Last edited:
S

scottladdy

Member
538
8
18
Location
CT
TGP (IL) said:
The LMC mat I put in 3 years ago fit well and is holding up very well.
I do have L/R floor mats too.
Drive almost every day.
Tom
Click to expand...
Looks sweet. Nice work that.

Is this the LMC "Molded Industrial Polyvinyl" mat?

Which dash pad did you use? I am in need of one.

Many thanks.
 
Barrman

Barrman

Well-known member
5,259
1,769
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
When we did RED we got the LMC front and rear as mentioned above. We spent what seemed like forever making the rear inner fender covers actually fit the fender. The mat isn't really molded to fit. I have learned doing the CowDog project that the factory wheel well insulation while useless as insulation. Is pie cut perfectly to turn a flat piece of something into a form fit. I would suggest to anybody trying to insulate or just cover the rear fender wells to make a junk yard trip. Find a find a square body Suburban or Blazer with carpet in the back. Pull the carpet and carefully remove the factory insulation from the wheel well. Reproduce the cuts on what you are installing, spray on a bit of 3M weather stripping and all is well.

Different thing in the same basic discussion. Neither of my two on the road M1009's have anything to hold the rear insulation/mat against the "step" under the rear seat. All 3 of the parts M1009's I have do have a strip of metal with spacers that screws in there. I have never looked in a civilian Blazer for such a thing. If you are installing front and rear covering. That strip and the galvanized strip at the tailgate are in my opinion well worth finding and drilling the holes for.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,777members
165,246threads
2,325,040posts
964online users
Top