alabamafrog
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- Huntsville Al
I spent the day working on my new M925 and found even more problems;
I install 2 new 1,000 cca batteries and when I tried to hook up the last wire it arced bad. Noticed a clicking noise and traced it to what appears to be an automatic reset overload device mounted on the engine side of the firewall at the very top center. I unplugged it and no more arc when hooking up the batts. So apparently I have a short somewhere that I got to find and fix, eventually.
So she now starts and runs great but when I checked voltage while running at the new batts it was 35 volts, I unhooked the little wire at the alternator and the voltage is now 24v running or not. So there is another problem to figure out and fix.
I fixed the limit switch on the T-case shifter so that it will no longer automatically lock in the front axle when put in low range. That fix was very quick and easy.
When I bought the truck it would shift into Low range but would not go into high.
I tried shifting it today with the air pressure pumped down and it feels like it is shifting properly but only grinds when in high and will not move. I adjusted the shift linkage at the T-case out about ½ and inch and still the same problem. It sure looks and feels like the shifter rod sticking out of the front of the T-case is moving in and out all the way like it should but there is just no high range.
This is the #1 problem I have to get fixed. I can't find a good breakdown of the T-case shifter, Anybody got any ideas on this one?
I ground the rubber covers off all the dogbone sockets and started welding some thick 1” angle iron brackets to the sockets to help prevent any future issues with the dog bones popping off the sockets. That project seems to be going well but it took a very long time to grind all the rubber off and it got dark before I could get very far with the welding.
I install 2 new 1,000 cca batteries and when I tried to hook up the last wire it arced bad. Noticed a clicking noise and traced it to what appears to be an automatic reset overload device mounted on the engine side of the firewall at the very top center. I unplugged it and no more arc when hooking up the batts. So apparently I have a short somewhere that I got to find and fix, eventually.
So she now starts and runs great but when I checked voltage while running at the new batts it was 35 volts, I unhooked the little wire at the alternator and the voltage is now 24v running or not. So there is another problem to figure out and fix.
I fixed the limit switch on the T-case shifter so that it will no longer automatically lock in the front axle when put in low range. That fix was very quick and easy.
When I bought the truck it would shift into Low range but would not go into high.
I tried shifting it today with the air pressure pumped down and it feels like it is shifting properly but only grinds when in high and will not move. I adjusted the shift linkage at the T-case out about ½ and inch and still the same problem. It sure looks and feels like the shifter rod sticking out of the front of the T-case is moving in and out all the way like it should but there is just no high range.
This is the #1 problem I have to get fixed. I can't find a good breakdown of the T-case shifter, Anybody got any ideas on this one?
I ground the rubber covers off all the dogbone sockets and started welding some thick 1” angle iron brackets to the sockets to help prevent any future issues with the dog bones popping off the sockets. That project seems to be going well but it took a very long time to grind all the rubber off and it got dark before I could get very far with the welding.