FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

MajorMogger

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According to the Lube Order, OE/HDO-10 which is 10 wt motor oil. I've attached LO 5-2420-224-12. I'm using 10 wt motor oil in mine and that was what was in it when received.
Question - how do you know what was in it? My power steering looks very clean and clear. I'm under the impression it has not been used since last filled. Previous owner says he didn't change any fluids as he never used it and he had it since 2014. Should I assume it is ok to top off w/ the AW32 or ISO 46 or whatever, or should I be worried this is some incompatible oil that I need to find on planet Unobtainia? It just looks like very clear oil and not sure how to tell if it's hydraulic or engine oil in the power steering dip stick.
 

The FLU farm

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If it was never changed, it should be 10W engine oil. Which isn't exactly ideal for the application.
Either drain it out and replace with a fluid of your choice, or leave well enough alone.
 

Speedwoble

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Question - how do you know what was in it? My power steering looks very clean and clear. I'm under the impression it has not been used since last filled. Previous owner says he didn't change any fluids as he never used it and he had it since 2014. Should I assume it is ok to top off w/ the AW32 or ISO 46 or whatever, or should I be worried this is some incompatible oil that I need to find on planet Unobtainia? It just looks like very clear oil and not sure how to tell if it's hydraulic or engine oil in the power steering dip stick.
Oils are not incompatible, additives are. As hydraulic oils are loaded with additives, I wouldn’t mix engine and hydraulic oil. If recapped in 2006, it is more than due for a fluid change. Military fluids were chosen for logistics, not lifespan.
 

Kommandant

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New Braunfels, TX
I know there is not a good wiring diagram available for the SEE's (poured over numerous posts relating to schematics). So if anyone can assist, I would appreciate it.

I dont know if this is the actual way the wire routing is supposd to be, but its the way it is on mine. There are 6 black wires (unmarked) zip tied to the emergency brake support bracket. 5 of those go to a connection block to the left of the e-brake mount. 1 wire goes to the push pin connector mounted on the clutch braket.

I am attempting to find out where the 6 wires out of the loom that go up into the dash and are just hanging out behind the speedo actually go....what they are to be attached to.

If anyone has info on this, Thank you in advance.
 

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MajorMogger

New member
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Texas
I know there is not a good wiring diagram available for the SEE's (poured over numerous posts relating to schematics). So if anyone can assist, I would appreciate it.

I dont know if this is the actual way the wire routing is supposd to be, but its the way it is on mine. There are 6 black wires (unmarked) zip tied to the emergency brake support bracket. 5 of those go to a connection block to the left of the e-brake mount. 1 wire goes to the push pin connector mounted on the clutch braket.

I am attempting to find out where the 6 wires out of the loom that go up into the dash and are just hanging out behind the speedo actually go....what they are to be attached to.

If anyone has info on this, Thank you in advance.
Did you look here https://support.expeditionimports.c...tachments/115004078532/419_Wiring_Diagram.pdf
 

Kommandant

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New Braunfels, TX

MajorMogger

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Location
Texas
Tried out the jackhammer today! Wow...what a major upgrade from my 15 amp harbor freight electric. I live on solid limestone bedrock so something like this will be very handy. The stub hoses leaked but I had already ordered replacements on ebay that had come in. So I just swapped them out and no problems. Wish the bit was 2x as long it would be easier to dig holes in the limestone that way. I also like being able to taper the speed, the electric cruddy one I have is on or off, no middle ground.
 

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glcaines

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I am having trouble finding the power steering fluid filter online, where do y'all get your parts from lately?
Check out Expedition Imports. https://expedition-imports.com/ They have the correct power steering filter for $13.52. The P/N is: 0004660404 They also carry a significant number of other parts for the FLU419.
 

MajorMogger

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Location
Texas
Maybe I'm just thinking the steering is harder than it should be and it's fine. Do y'all get any groaning out of yours even when it's full with fluid?
 

The FLU farm

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Maybe I'm just thinking the steering is harder than it should be and it's fine. Do y'all get any groaning out of yours even when it's full with fluid?
I can get some belt screech out of one on occasion, right after starting it and especially when it's cold out.
But that's with wider tires that are at low pressures. All because I've been to lazy to tighten the belt.

If there's any groaning to be heard it's likely from me, after climbing up into the cab. Especially when it's cold out.
 

MajorMogger

New member
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3
Location
Texas
Question - is there any way to search this specific thread for a FLU 419 issue? I am a little mortified...I fired it up, moved it ten feet to list a 1000 lb lister diesel out of a trailer, moved it right back to its spot. No strange noises or anything. Fired it up a while later and can't get it to act like it's in gear. No matter what I shift into it just does nothing when I let out the clutch. Pneumatic problem? Or did I really destroy something?
 

MajorMogger

New member
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16
3
Location
Texas
I did find a way to search this specific thread. See attached.

The search for splitter in the parent unimog thread is https://www.steelsoldiers.com/searc...t=post&c[child_nodes]=1&c[nodes][0]=34&o=date for anyone else who is looking.

I will perform another search using the manual's terms, "intermediate speed control".

I read all the ones about the intermediate speed control air shift splitter, most of them are people posting w/o a path they took to diagnose it.

Iit sounds like it could be stuck in between gears. I was distracted and at a total stand still shifted the air splitter without clutch engaged, I think I was in neutral at that time. But I moved it after that w/o any issues so I'm not sure that did anything. I think when I tried to move it unsuccessfully after that I had moved the splitter and at that point I think it got stuck.

I let the air pressure build to over 90. I moved the air splitter up and down a few times, no luck.

I'm not 100% certain, but I recall hearing more of a noticeable shifting sound on the air shifter when I moved it in times past when driving. Now it seems to just make a little air sound and I don't hear that "ok, I've shifted now" sound.

Things I've gleaned that could be wrong:

1. clutch (I don't think so, it worked fine when I parked it) but will diagnose with the rear PTO test. I read if the rear PTO works your clutch works.

2. Some people wrote they have air shifter issues like this that come and go. No solution was provided where this is mentioned.

3. Stuck "overflow" valve could apparently cause this. The primary (I guess brake) air system has to have enough pressure before it will overflow the pressure to the shifting system.

4. Splitter solenoid could have gone bad suddenly.

5. There could be a fuse problem depriving power at the solenoid. I did lose a fuse (presumably) the other day as all my dash gauges went out, so I will check this first.
 

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