Front drive flange de-splining service

[rdixiemiller]

All
Anyone needs some front flanges desplined, send them on to me. I cut 4 hubs today, takes about 1/2 hr each. I am using a 1" carbide insert boring bar and opening them up from 1 5/8" to 1 7/8". I don't have to remove the expansion plugs on the outboard side, I set an indicator and bore to within .050". That is a good thing, as all 4 used flanges I bored had some serious dings around the plugs, they would not have been easy to get out. I would also have had to use the boring bar and clean up the recess before a new plug could be installed (freeze plug will fit). For the front, all I am doing is boring. For the rear conversion axle I am working on, I am bushing the hub to support the outboard end of the double splined axle. I am using an oilite bronze bushing, and allowing .030" clearance.



I am pretty sure I can do these and barely mark the paint where the 3 jaw chuck grabs the flange.



Price: You pay shipping out, I will pay shipping back. Just throw in some odds and ends of deuce stuff that someone rebuilding one would need. You can also just owe me a favor, I accept that as well!



I figure 3 day turn around. If someone is in a hurry, I can probably do 2 days.



This gives me a chance to practice my machining skills and have a little fun!



Just for information sake: The hubs are a mild steel forging, not hardened. They cut extremely easily with my setup.



I see no reason not to be able to do 5 ton hubs, if anyone wants that done. I would just have to put on the 16" 4 jaw chuck to grab them.

 

[cranetruck]

Nice project, Robert!
So, one of the splined front hubs will fit in the rear, correct?
Hmm..I thought the front hubs were hardened.
Started working on this exact thing 4-5 years ago and ended up removing the interaxle drive shaft instead.
I put needle bearings in the front hubs after they were bored out, but that turned out to be a bit of an overkill. If you want to do that for the rear, I can dig up the Torrington P/N's.
Keep us posted! Sure saves a lot of bucks compared to the lockables (stronger and look better too).

 

[rdixiemiller]

I don't see the Torrington bearings being necessary. In a tight turn, the axle/hub speed difference would be 3-4 rpm at most. A bronze bushing with a little grease will take that up with no issues. I think as a side item that you should be able to install the rear flange (splined) without lifting the rear wheel. 16 splines and the normal spider play should allow you to align the bolt holes without resorting to the jack. You might have to do the jack bit to get the splined hub back off, but maybe not the other way.

The flanges cut beautifully with carbide, and the chips did not look like hardened steel. Just a decent grade of steel.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Robert, Tom Bauer (Millenium Reo) cut my hubs. He first chucked them up on the back and cut a little flat area around the nose (freezeplug). He then chuched them up on this surface to despline them. I'll generate a pic later. This helps me identify which hubs are on the truck.