Front stud length with spacer?

[4x4e350]

Just installed some 16r20s on my bobbed M818, went ahead and adjusted the limit bolts to eliminate the rubbing on the steering arm, but would like to improve the steering radius, so just ordered some 1 1/2" bridge truck spacers.
So I need 1 1/2" longer studs, was in NAPA today and the longest they can get would be 4", but the current studs on the front of the truck only extend out about 1/8" from the lug. I believe the original studs on the front would be 2 13/16" long, so the NAPA studs would only be about 1" longer.
Does anyone have a part # for studs that can be used with a 1 1/2" spacer on the front hubs? Not looking to go with HEMMT rims.

 

[simp5782]

They make a shouldered lug nut

I do not know of any longer studs other than for a bridge truck and those are hens teeth.

 

[simp5782]

You can also check the Euclid catalog for longer thimbles and put your thimbles on first wirh a flat spacer at the base over the stud then you wheel. You could probably use 1/2" sae L9 washers and get a thimbles that's a little longer than stock.

 

[4x4e350]

You can also check the Euclid catalog for longer thimbles and put your thimbles on first wirh a flat spacer at the base over the stud then you wheel. You could probably use 1/2" sae L9 washers and get a thimbles that's a little longer than stock.

I spent the day today looking for some longer studs, went to two different truck places and the longest one they could get was the same one which NAPA can get, a Euclid stud that's 4" long. The shank is about 1 1/4" longer than a stock stud, which I think will fit in the spacer perfectly. I like the idea of having the shank pressed fit into the spacer, I think this will add strength. Then I will check into the shoulder bolts you posted, or using the stock rear thimbles over the spacer. I know I've seen people using the thimbles on the front, but I would think they would of had to use longer studs this way? I'm just concerned about using the thimbles on the front steer axle, would there be any strength issues?

 

[simp5782]

I spent the day today looking for some longer studs, went to two different truck places and the longest one they could get was the same one which NAPA can get, a Euclid stud that's 4" long. The shank is about 1 1/4" longer than a stock stud, which I think will fit in the spacer perfectly. I like the idea of having the shank pressed fit into the spacer, I think this will add strength. Then I will check into the shoulder bolts you posted, or using the stock rear thimbles over the spacer. I know I've seen people using the thimbles on the front, but I would think they would of had to use longer studs this way? I'm just concerned about using the thimbles on the front steer axle, would there be any strength issues?

Use thimbles to dual up steer tires all the time. Thimbles get their strength from the stud as long as it's got half in the threads its fine

 

[4x4e350]

Use thimbles to dual up steer tires all the time. Thimbles get their strength from the stud as long as it's got half in the threads its fine

That's what I was not sure about, good to know! Thanks.

 

[4x4e350]

Just an FYI, I happened to stumble on some studs that fit perfectly with the 1 1/2" spacer. I went to NAPA and two different truck parts stores and the longest stud they could find was 4", they all said there was none longer, maybe they just didn't want to look?
I found some that are 4 3/16" long, which is 1 7/16" longer than original. I found these online.
The first pic shows an original (left), NAPA (center), then the longer (right). The rest of the pics show how they are long enough for regular nuts and the part #s.

 

[Mullaney]

Just an FYI, I happened to stumble on some studs that fit perfectly with the 1 1/2" spacer. I went to NAPA and two different truck parts stores and the longest stud they could find was 4", they all said there was none longer, maybe they just didn't want to look?
I found some that are 4 3/16" long, which is 1 7/16" longer than original. I found these online.
The first pic shows an original (left), NAPA (center), then the longer (right). The rest of the pics show how they are long enough for regular nuts and the part #s.

.
Thanks!!

Those are the part numbers @ NAPA on the white boxes?

 

[4x4e350]

.
Thanks!!

Those are the part numbers @ NAPA on the white boxes?

No, NAPA couldn't get the longer studs, I had to order them online. Those are the part #s on the boxes.

 

[simp5782]

You might want to double knurl those long studs so your spacer gets a knurl and it comes thru the hub a little more.

First time they are a little rusty and you hit it with an impact that small inside knurl is going to give out and spin

 

[4x4e350]

You might want to double knurl those long studs so your spacer gets a knurl and it comes thru the hub a little more.

First time they are a little rusty and you hit it with an impact that small inside knurl is going to give out and spin

What would get rusty to hold the nut to the stud? There are no threads extending past the nut.

 

[simp5782]

What would get rusty to hold the nut to the stud? There are no threads extending past the nut.

Water(moisture), sand, mud always get in places that they don't belong. You could Teflon coat the outside.
Even stainless steel in constant contact with regular steel will rust.

Michigan was a salty place with lots of moisture atleast 8 months out of the year.

 

[4x4e350]

Water(moisture), sand, mud always get in places that they don't belong. You could Teflon coat the outside.
Even stainless steel in constant contact with regular steel will rust.

Michigan was a salty place with lots of moisture atleast 8 months out of the year.

This is Michigan, we already grease our studs up real well if you ever want to get your nuts off. LOL! Seriously, I always grease the studs on all my vehicles.
I hear ya tho, the knurl on the original is about 1/8" longer, so that's where it would have to be done I would think, the spacer hole wasn't a press fit like the hub so the knurl would have to be larger. They did fit in the hub very tight, so I didn't even think of the shorter knurl being an issue, but certainly something to consider.

 

[simp5782]

This is Michigan, we already grease our studs up real well if you ever want to get your nuts off. LOL! Seriously, I always grease the studs on all my vehicles.
I hear ya tho, the knurl on the original is about 1/8" longer, so that's where it would have to be done I would think, the spacer hole wasn't a press fit like the hub so the knurl would have to be larger. They did fit in the hub very tight, so I didn't even think of the shorter knurl being an issue, but certainly something to consider.

Or take a 308ss rod and tack the insides. Take some quarter inch cold roll and bend it in a O the same as the lug pattern so it can be tacked to all the heads.

It really depends on how often you plan on taking the tire off cause we know Murphys law he will show up when you don't need him to. Like side of the road. At night in the rain or snow

 

[4x4e350]

Or take a 308ss rod and tack the insides. Take some quarter inch cold roll and bend it in a O the same as the lug pattern so it can be tacked to all the heads.

It really depends on how often you plan on taking the tire off cause we know Murphys law he will show up when you don't need him to. Like side of the road. At night in the rain or snow

Yes, I need to look into a way to secure these better, because my luck if I get a flat is when all the studs would spin.
These actual bridge truck studs must be a nightmare, especially since those trucks were made to be fording rivers to drop their cargo. I believe these were made for 3" spacers. https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/1673/Right-Front-Bridge-Truck-Wheel-Stud

 

[simp5782]

I've got a set of spacers. Rusty isn't even on the low end of the spectrum