Fuel delivery issues

[TechnoWeenie]

Got a M1010 with 18K on it from auction, it was driven in but had been sitting for 6+ years....Had about 3/4 tank, I checked the fuel.. No water, looked good, smelled good.. then I dumped another 6 or 7 gallons in to fill it up, then added some misc additives.....cranked it over.. it wanted to start but couldn't... tried giving it a little bit of starting fluid to help... didn't help... didn't catch..

I have power to the fuel solenoid.

When I was cranking it, I bled the filter, and it was dribbling out.... mechanic said pressure was low, so we replaced the fuel pump. The fuel pump didn't look the same (different style actuator) but said it cross-referenced and 'would work'...

Well, now there's ZERO fuel, even after cranking on it for at least 5-10 minutes (total cranking) after letting the starter cool off each time.... trying to bleed it .. nada...



My concern is...

1. No fuel. Possible wrong fuel pump would cause that. BUT, from my understanding, even if it WAS wrong, it would still work, just not optimally. There is ZERO fuel at the filter/bleeder even after all that cranking. Yes it was seated properly.

2. Even IF there's no fuel, the starting fluid should have gladly kicked it over, even if it was only for a second.. But there's nada... like the starter fluid doesn't exist.

I've already bought new batteries, and I'm thinking about running an electrical pump instead of a mechanical one.. but I'm concerned that the fact that it won't even stutter on starter fluid is a sign of a potential issue..

Now, before those are yelling and screaming bloody murder about starter fluid, and all the damage it does, and blah blah blah.. I know... I spray for a half second, let it atomize, let it sit for a couple seconds, then walk over and try to start it... I did the same thing with my M1009 when the GPs went and I HAD TO use it. I know how much to use to kick it over without causing it to over rev and assplode itself.

Only thing I can think of, would be a compression issue... but if it was driven in.....?

Can I put a couple PSI into the tank to 'force' fuel to go to the lift pump, if it drained back into the tank when we replaced it?


Thoughts?

 

[Hasdrubal]

When you remove lift pump, fuel does drain back to the tank, so it takes longer to bleed. Yes, you can pressurize the tank with low psi to bleed the filter, either with a rag around nozzle at filler or through the return line on IP. Alternatively you can use a brake bleeding device attached to the filter bleed. I usually pull the glow plugs when doing any extended cranking. Its easier on the starter and less drain on the batteries.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

1. No fuel. Possible wrong fuel pump would cause that. BUT, from my understanding, even if it WAS wrong, it would still work, just not optimally.

Well, that's what your mechanic said. What if he's wrong? It would certainly look like what you're experiencing, wouldn't it?

 

[paladin1176]

Change the filter and re-prime the system. If that filter is more than say 6-12 months old it needs to be replaced...especially if it has been sitting. And if you want to check and see if the pump is working just take the fuel inlet line loose where it goes into the filter. You will know within a few cranks if it is spitting fuel.