Fuel Pump Swap Crucial Info

[Rustyshackelford]

Well I conquered the dreaded fuel pump job today. After reading many posts and PMing with a couple experts I felt I was armed with all the information I would need to make this job a success. That turned out to not be entirely true, there was one piece of information that could have saved me a HUGE headache. This info could very well be only true for my truck but I'm assuming everyone's trucks are just like mine.

Most fuel pump swap posts will lead you to believe that getting the bolts back in after swapping pumps is where all the trouble is. Now, this is true but, this info actually cost me 2.5 hours on my pump replacement. I was having a HELLUVA time getting the bolts to start on the threads when reassembling and I had just accepted that this was the way I should expect it to be. Having made that assumption I was trying over and over again with zero success and I wasn't pursuing any other avenues because of it. Fast forward 2.5 hours of me hanging upside down trying to thread in one bolt... I loosened the plate that holds the push rod in and changed it's alignment. This slight alignment adjustment allowed both the fuel pump bolts to thread right in and I was primed and running 15 min later.

Long story short, all the info I've read about the lift pump replacement on here was extrememly helpful except the omission of this tiny tid bit. Maybe it should go without saying and I'm just not a good enough mechanic to know it, but I thought I'd write it up for the next sucker.

To all who are about to do this job, please keep in mind that the plate under your pump needs to be aligned correctly before the two fuel pump bolts will find their homes.

God speed!

 

[Rustyshackelford]

While I'm at it... I'll post the very helpful PM I recieved from Barrman before I did the job. Maybe future post searchers will find this helpful.


Barrman said:
"It is kind of difficult to do. You need swivel or ujoint sockets. If you don't have them, buy as set of standard and metrick. 10mm, 7/16 and 3/8 will be needed. I like 1/4" drive compared to 3/8 drive on this job.

Break the solid fuel line fitting loose on the bottom of the pump. You can leave the line sitting there or pull it out. I was waiting for a new pump to show up, so I pulled mine out, let it drip for a day and then got to do the job with no fuel falling on me.

You might be able to get the hose clamp for the flexible feed line loose with the pump still bolted on. There is no need though.

Pull the two mounting bolts out anyway you can. I like doing the mounting bolts from on top. The front one can be done from the bottom, but only the top will work for the rear bolt.

Once the pump is loose, work it between the radiator hose and the frame rail to where it is hanging down from the feed line. Know, you can get a driver on the clamp and remove the line. The old pump is now out.

If the area around the pump looks dry and oil free. Put some grease on a finger and transfer the grease to the fuel pump push rod as close to the engine as you can. Use a scribe, screwdriver, fingernail, etc... to get the push rod moving back up to the engine. The grease will hold it in place for a few minutes.

If the area looks nasty, pull the two 10 mm head bolts and remove the fuel pump mount plate. Pull the rod, clean everything, make a gasket, use gasket maker, coat the rod with grease and put it all back together.

From underneath, use a 1/2" breaker bar and a 15/16, I think, to turn the engine over. With a hand pushing on the push rod, turn the engine until the rod is as far up as possible.

Put a new gasket on the new pump, hook up the feed line and tighten up a new clamp. Squeeze it back up past the frame rail and into its slot. Make sure the pushrod is on the arm of the pump. Start the threaded fuel line and make sure you turn it at least 2 turns so it will stay.

Everything so far has been pretty easy. Starting the front bolt will make you mad. Getting the back bolt in will drive you nuts. Then trying to tighten them will make your arms, shoulders, neck and everything else hurt.

Fire it up and check for leaks after you tighten the metal fuel line all the way.

I hope this helps."

 

[cucvrus]

We have covered this fuel pump subject so many times in the last month. Many people have offered information and tips. This is a quote from 3/07/15. (Yes it is a simple task. Be sure to remove the cover plate as I outlined before. And take the push rod and put some wheel bearing grease on that rod and shove it up it up into the hole in the block. Do not tighten any bolts until you have everything started. I use the gasket and Permatex the right stuff. About an hour job. Make sure and do it right. No short cuts.) And if you broke that cover place loose. It would have been the time to put a new gasket in. They do sell that gasket. You don't have to go through the task of making one. Good Job I am glad you had success.

 

[cucvrus]

This a .99 cover plate gasket at the parts store. It should come with the new fuel pump but it never does. I felt you pain a long time ago till I learned. I am sure you will never forget. But it is good to pass on your experience of real world repairs. It is better then reading a TM that don't even give you a clue of the real task at hand. Like I said I am glad you got the job handled. Maybe others can learn from your suffering.

 

[SRB1976]

Ditch the pain in the neck mechanical pump and install an electric. You'll thank me later. I replaced my electric with a new one last summer. Took me about 15 minutes. Not only is replacement much easier. Priming is a breeze.

 

[cucvrus]

I replaced my electric with a new one last summer. Took me about 15 minutes. Not only is replacement much easier. Priming is a breeze.
If you had to replace it last year. It was not a very good change. ?????
Really what can be a pain in the neck about a fuel pump? It pumps fuel.