I want to pull my M1078 into my shop but my Garage door is 9ft. so it's about 4-6 inches too tall for cab clearance. What are my options to get the truck lower to clear the door? Disable the CTIS? Air down the front tires? What about that front end squat system ? How would you do it?.....Bob
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GARAGE DOOR CLEARANCE
- Thread starter rdynes
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Have you put it in sand mode and measured the height?
Suspension squat is pretty self-explanatory. You attach the adapters, flip the selectors and press the button. I'm sure it's in the TM also. Even a soldier can figure it out...... why don't you try it and measure?
Not entirely clear on how we can solve this for you over the internet. It's going to take trying a couple things like letting the air out and trying your suspension cylinders and MEASUREING to ensure you don't knock your garage over.
Suspension squat is pretty self-explanatory. You attach the adapters, flip the selectors and press the button. I'm sure it's in the TM also. Even a soldier can figure it out...... why don't you try it and measure?
Not entirely clear on how we can solve this for you over the internet. It's going to take trying a couple things like letting the air out and trying your suspension cylinders and MEASUREING to ensure you don't knock your garage over.
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Yeah right you definitely don't want to knock something over! First time I backed my truck up towards my fence, I didn't have backup cameras yet, it snapped off the 4x6 post and I didn't even feel it!
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Last week at the DMV 
Ronmar
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The trucks used to have kneeling valves on the front wheels. they were spring loaded relief valves, you twist them and they drop the front tires to ~10PSI. That combined with deflating the cab air suspension and the front suspension compression cylinders extended, chain plates pinned to axles and all the way retracted and pinned gets you the cargo door squat(105.5” or 8’-9.5”?)…
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Those branches needed trimming anyway!
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What size solar panels are those? That looks exactly like what I am planning. Do you have any pics of the shades extended?
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You need a bigger garage......I put this one up so that anything I could drive legally on the road with no issues would drive right in. 
Please tell me more about these ways to lower the cab. How to keep cab deflated and the front squat system operation...Bob
Ronmar
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this is in the operators manual…
The cab air suspension control is in the hydraulic control panel, turn it off to deflate the air springs.
the hydraulic suspension compression cylinders are on each side of the frame. Disconnect the chain plate from where they hang stored on the frame, remove the 2 locking pins from each cylinder.
use the hydraulic control panel and air op pump to fully extend the cylinders.
connect the chain plates to the pins on the axle, and use the hydraulic controls and pump to fully retract the hydraulic cylinders and re-install the pins to lock them in that position with the suspension fully compressed
disconnect the ctis controller connector and manually deflate the front tires to ~10 PSI…
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They are REC Alpha 400 watt panels.
The shades help the AC by keeping the direct sun off the walls of the enclosure. That's their main purpose.
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That garage looks to be the footprint of my entire property line! My truck just barely fits on my drivewayYou need a bigger garage......I put this one up so that anything I could drive legally on the road with no issues would drive right in.
View attachment 913086
Do you need to raise the cab to do this operation?
Ronmar
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Its a little easier to get in under the cab to work with the compression cylinders and hook up th3 chain plates, but no, you dont have to raise the cab to do this...
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Okay, this discussion has devolved enough.
Please do not continue this in another thread or risk the wrath of a moderator.
thank you
Please do not continue this in another thread or risk the wrath of a moderator.
thank you
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I've cleaned up this thread and issued points for the two. I've opened the thread back up if civil conversation can be had.
coachgeo
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.... shade would help AC yes...... but how much is hmmm?? in this case; not sure, since your solar panels have shaded your whole roof already.. and with the time of solar baking on a wall being shorter than on a roof in 24hrs... hmmm??
but that discussion is for another thread
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It makes a HUGE difference. That's why I did it. I did thermal imaging before and after. The 1079 van construction does have thermal breaks between the inner skin and the aluminum studs but they just aren't that effective. The inner walls get CRAZY hot when the outside is in direct sun. This just fights the AC in the habitat. And I added larger windows - which are much better than the single-pane factory garbage, but now allow a lot of sunlight through as well..... I coated the entire interior walls and ceiling with LizardSkin thermal ceramic coating which also dropped the temp by about 20 degrees. And in conjunction with the shades the AC can actually function in 100 degree weather..... shade would help AC yes...... but how much is hmmm?? in this case; not sure, since your solar panels have shaded your whole roof already.. and with the time of solar baking on a wall being shorter than on a roof in 24hrs... hmmm??
but that discussion is for another thread
I am not willing to paint the whole truck white to reflect the heat. But that would be the ultimate final step. I am painting the entire truck 383 OD Green CARC which will be better than the black in the 3-color at least.
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Do you have a part number for the AC you are using? If not, BTU specs?
Do you have a better picture of the top of your cab/turret ???