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Gas tank issues....

98taco3

Member
390
4
18
Location
Berthoud, Colorado
Well i sent off the gas tank out of my M37 to the radiator shop to get dipped and cleaned. And it looks like the varnish vanquished the shops acid tank. He was unable to clean alot of the gunk out of the tank, its almost tar in consistency. Any other ideas? It got dipped several times but they were only able to clean the center section and not behind the baffles. Any other ideas short of cutting the tank open and making some access panels?
 

M135 ON THE RUN

New member
35
0
0
Location
Cromwell conn.
Hey, I put half inch stone graval in mine and rolled all over the yard. after that I filled it with simple green and sooked it over knight .came out ok but could use some more tumbling.
 

98taco3

Member
390
4
18
Location
Berthoud, Colorado
the shop i had it at tried the tumbling method after the acid tank didnt do to well with just about the same results. Guess im at a loss as to what to do from here, MEK wont even cut this junk out of there. I tried some spots to no avail. Im thinking im just gonna put the thing back in and run a fuel filter with a sediment bowl on it and hope it doesnt gum up again. This junk cant be gas!
 

98taco3

Member
390
4
18
Location
Berthoud, Colorado
the shop i had it at tried the tumbling method after the acid tank didnt do to well with just about the same results. Guess im at a loss as to what to do from here, MEK wont even cut this junk out of there. I tried some spots with it and it didnt do anything. Im thinking im just gonna put the thing back in and run a fuel filter with a sediment bowl on it and hope it doesnt gum up again. This junk cant be gas!
 

ALFA2

Member
205
2
18
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
98taco3, if you tried everything else, and you have a well vented back yard, you may want to try this, it has worked well for me on several fuel tanks gas and diesel, which sat for 30+ years in the desert heat. Take out the sending unit and float assembly, find a metal plug for the drain plug, and other openings below fluid level, go to Home depot near you, look in the paint prep section, for a gallon type can of concrete prep/etch product, which contains Phosphoric acid, ask the sales person in there, or read the label on the can. You want the one with the Highest % Phosphoric acid as content. Do not tell them what you want to do, as they will not sell it to, you if they know. For a 20 + - gal tank 2 gal of this stuff will be plenty. After you buy the 2 gal cans, got to a food store near you, and get 6-10 gallons of distilled water, not purified, or filtered but distilled. After you plug all opening in the tank, set it on a level surface in the back your or someplace vented where kids and pets will not have access to it. Wear your safety face shield and rubber chem resistant gloves. Pour the entire 1 gal of concrete etcher / prep in to the tank, add slowly 1 gal of hot distilled water to it, using a funnel. Let is sit overnight. Later, check on the progress, this solution will dissolve all non metallic organic deposits, rust, warnish, tar, other unidentifiable deposits on the bottom of the tank, and will not eat the metal of the tank. Gently slosh the solution around, to see if the deposits have loosened up or not, the worse it smells and fizzes, the more it is reacting with the gunk on the bottom. You can use a long screwdriver, or a long metal rod to poke the gunk on the bottom, to see if it loosened. Depending on the thickness of you gunk in the tank, you may have to try several times, do not let it sit at any one time longer than 3 days/nights, dump it out, and wash out with yard hose water, try again as before. Please wear rubber gloves and face shield, since you are also made from an organic non metallic material, as far as this stuff is concerned...

I had not had to do this more than 3 times to a very gunked up fuel tank, with 2.5 " of tar looking deposits on the bottom of a 50 gal tank, after final water rinse it was shiny metal, like new, any place the solution reached the gunk. I advise not to slosh it around too much, as it can splash or leak out, and it is unpleasant when it does. A less concentrated solution can be used to wash/soak small gunked up parts in a stainless steel bucket or bowl, but same safety cautions need to be observed, same basic solution.

Hope this helps.

ALFA2
 

Eric's hifim37

New member
112
0
0
Location
Barstow, Ca.
Yea, I'm done with the factory tank in my M37. They are becoming to hard to find and get to work anymore, Mine is leaking at the spot welds on the bottom and I am sick of patching it up with the repair kits so I am gong to build me a custom tank and fit into my M37. I found a tank out of a M101 trailer that looked like it could be fitted into the M37 but I need a larger capacity tank anyway so I'll do the custom tank. The only probelem I see is getting some sort of anti-rust protection inside of the tank but I have heard that as long as you keep it used it shoud not rust, I'm out here in the desert anyway so humidity & rust aren't much of a problem.

Good luck Taco,

Eric..
 

Unforgiven

New member
675
18
0
Location
Las Vegas, NV
98taco3, if you tried everything else, and you have a well vented back yard, you may want to try this, it has worked well for me on several fuel tanks gas and diesel, which sat for 30+ years in the desert heat. Take out the sending unit and float assembly, find a metal plug for the drain plug, and other openings below fluid level, go to Home depot near you, look in the paint prep section, for a gallon type can of concrete prep/etch product, which contains Phosphoric acid, ask the sales person in there, or read the label on the can. You want the one with the Highest % Phosphoric acid as content. Do not tell them what you want to do, as they will not sell it to, you if they know. For a 20 + - gal tank 2 gal of this stuff will be plenty. After you buy the 2 gal cans, got to a food store near you, and get 6-10 gallons of distilled water, not purified, or filtered but distilled. After you plug all opening in the tank, set it on a level surface in the back your or someplace vented where kids and pets will not have access to it. Wear your safety face shield and rubber chem resistant gloves. Pour the entire 1 gal of concrete etcher / prep in to the tank, add slowly 1 gal of hot distilled water to it, using a funnel. Let is sit overnight. Later, check on the progress, this solution will dissolve all non metallic organic deposits, rust, warnish, tar, other unidentifiable deposits on the bottom of the tank, and will not eat the metal of the tank. Gently slosh the solution around, to see if the deposits have loosened up or not, the worse it smells and fizzes, the more it is reacting with the gunk on the bottom. You can use a long screwdriver, or a long metal rod to poke the gunk on the bottom, to see if it loosened. Depending on the thickness of you gunk in the tank, you may have to try several times, do not let it sit at any one time longer than 3 days/nights, dump it out, and wash out with yard hose water, try again as before. Please wear rubber gloves and face shield, since you are also made from an organic non metallic material, as far as this stuff is concerned...

I had not had to do this more than 3 times to a very gunked up fuel tank, with 2.5 " of tar looking deposits on the bottom of a 50 gal tank, after final water rinse it was shiny metal, like new, any place the solution reached the gunk. I advise not to slosh it around too much, as it can splash or leak out, and it is unpleasant when it does. A less concentrated solution can be used to wash/soak small gunked up parts in a stainless steel bucket or bowl, but same safety cautions need to be observed, same basic solution.

Hope this helps.

ALFA2

Will Muriatic (hydrochloric) acid work, or does it have to be phosphoric?
 

98taco3

Member
390
4
18
Location
Berthoud, Colorado
muriatic works, its what they use at the radiator shop to clean them. If its just gas varnish it will work. my problem is muriatic didnt work for some reason. I believe its sugar on the bottom of the tank and that type of acid will not take it out...
 

wdbtchr

New member
883
3
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
Note: muratic acid will eat steel while phosphoric won't. Also muratic give off chlorine gas, bad news. I haven't been able to find phosphoric acid her in STL for over a year, Home Depots here stopped carring it. You might have luck a stores carrying ceramic or other hard tile.
 

ALFA2

Member
205
2
18
Location
Phoenix, Arizona
wdbtchr, places/services that pressure wash concrete, or do concrete custom etching would have phosphoric acid, possibly even more concentrated than home depot version.

Good Luck.

ALFA2
 

wdbtchr

New member
883
3
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
That's a good idea, I'll check that out. The people at HD told me they stopped carrying phosphoric acid because it is too dangerous, doesn't hold up because muratic acid is much more reactive and gives off chlorine too boot, very dangerous in a confined area.:cookoo::roll:
 
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