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Gen 1 light on dim....but alternators are charging

mktopside

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To preface, "Yes" I have downloaded the TM's, and "Yes" I have searched for this issue.

I've been trying to figure this out on and off for the past 3 weeks. I've read every electrical thread that seemed to apply, and preformed many of the tips/tricks.

When the key is turned to the accessory position, both Gen lights come on bright. When the engine is started, the Gen 2 light stays bright until the gas pedal is depressed (like it describes in the TM) but the Gen 1 light stays on at about 50% brightness. If I blip the throttle, Gen 2 turns off, but Gen 1 stays at 50%. Gen 1 light stays on at 50% brightness no matter what.

Electrical load does not appear to have any effect on the brightness. It just stays at this dim level all the time. The headlights are bright, all other lights work, and all other electrical components of the vehicle appear to be working properly.

*Vehicle has 2 new Group 31 Optimas.

*Alt 1 reads 14.68v while the engine is running, with Bat 1 reading 14.60.

*Alt 2 reads 14.7v with engine running, Bat 2 14.63 with engine running.

*Both Alt's together read 29.1v, as do both Bat's.

*All fuses in fuse box have been replaced with new fuses. Fuse box contacts have been cleaned, and fuses lubed with dielectric grease.

*Alt 1 grounding wire has been cleaned and lubricated on both ends, and an additional grounding wire has been added to one of the intake manifold bolts to assure it is grounding properly.

*All connections on Alt 1 have been cleaned and lubed.

*All connections at the firewall "Junction blocks?" (The big blocks on the passenger side where all the big wires connect) have been removed, cleaned, lubed, and reconnected.

*Gen 1, and Gen 2 bulbs are new, sockets and tabs are cleaned and lubed as well.

*Belts are tight.




Now, the volt meter does not work at all. It appears to be unplugged, but it is my understanding that it doesn't relate to the Gen 1 circuit; and since I have verified voltage with a multi meter under the hood, I have not worried about fixing it.

I know the next step is to start checking fusible links, but I wanted to bounce this off you guys first to see if anyone could narrow it down for me to a specific link or circuit; or if anyone had a "It's this you moron..." type answer. ;-)

I do have a spare alternator that I can swap out, but I didn't want to introduce any new variables into the process since the current alternator appears to be working properly.


Any direction would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
 

mktopside

Banned
467
6
0
Location
Gainesville, Va
Replaced the alternator today. Problem solved, all is well again. :)

FWIW. The Autozone delco remy rebuild alternator did not come with an isolated ground even though it was advertized as such. Doesn't really matter as it's Gen 1, but just something for everyone to watch out for.
 

Warthog

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Replaced the alternator today. Problem solved, all is well again. :)

FWIW. The Autozone delco remy rebuild alternator did not come with an isolated ground even though it was advertized as such. Doesn't really matter as it's Gen 1, but just something for everyone to watch out for.

The only place to get an "isolated ground" alternator is to special order a rebuilt one at NAPA or have your old one rebuilt. The Autozone alternator is just a standard alternator that will only work on the driver side.

Please label your new alternator so someone in the future doesn't try to install it on the passenger side and blow something up.
 
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