After spending the second week this year without power I have reached a point where I am ready to buy a good, dependable generator. I have been looking at goverment liquidation and seem to be interested in a MEP-002a, or possibly a 3a. The only issue I have buying from them is they do not clarify if the are running units or if I need to buy two and hope for the best. After reading past posts and learning about the ASK enclosure, and not seeing any up for auction, I wondered if installing a muffler on one can be done without harming the motor with to much back pressure. I might be wrong but it doesnt look like there is a muffler, but may have missed it. If there is a muffler could a second one be installed. Any ideas will help me decide what or what not to do. Thanks.
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Generator Questions From GL
- Thread starter GMOSC
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It is a crap shoot at best , preveiw and hope all the parts are still there when you pick it up.
dependable
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It is indeed a crap shoot. When they don't run, parts can be expensive. They are loud. You can build your own enclosure and add more muffler . In both cases, make sure they can breath. I am building a enclosure for my 002a, patterned after the Ask enclosures for larger gensets. If you like cool equipment and don't mind working on it, the 002s and 003s are great. If you just need occasional power without much effort, mabey a new consumer unit would be a better choice.
R Racing
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I'm 2 out of 2 for DOA LOL Crap shoot is the right term .
Keith_J
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An additional muffler won't help. They already have mufflers.
If the Cannon plugs are all attached, the gauges clear and the unit isn't missing equipment like the control/output cubicles, it should only need filters and cleanup of the fuel system.
That they probably have been sitting on the DRMO/GL lot for a few months is the limit of the damage. Mine needed fuel system cleaning plus gauge/meter servicing. All but the frequency meter were salvageable. This included taking the percent rated current meter apart and re-gluing the damping magnet as water intrusion caused it to debond, pinning the damping vane and preventing movement. They are sealed but you can take them apart and clean/adjust if you know how.
The oil pressure gauge was dirty and leaked rain water. Plus a spider had nested inside. The fuel gauge had corrosion too, it was easily opened for cleaning and repainting.
The Nylon outer covering on the exposed wire was gone, this was replaced by clear heat shrink to protect the fiberglass. Then the wiring harness was loomed with corrugated split loom.
The most work was the fuel system. Tank had about two dozen rust holes and full of rust. The filler cap and strainer basket was desoldered, then rivets drilled for complete removal to allow complete access . Phosphoric acid eventually removed all rust, holes welded and interior coated with POR Universal Tank Sealant. Like new and should never rust.
The injection pump was gummed and inoperative. With good dexterity, the control collar lever assembly was removed to clean properly. Then a few shots of Berryman B12 inside the pump cleaned the rest. No need for retiming the injection pump but still takes a few hours.
This MEP-002A is rock steady at 60.5 Hz under a 3 kW load and jumps to 61 Hz when that load is removed. It has driven a stick welder at 200 amperes output (roughly 35 volts arc voltage) without blowing any smoke.
If you have heating by #2 fuel oil, the 002/003As are perfect. Noise is best controlled by enclosing. Just baffle the air inlet and exhaust. Some line the enclosure with lead sheet but regular drywall (5/8", fire rated) is sufficient as the noise is lower frequency once warmed up. Lead only stops the initial diesel clatter.
If the Cannon plugs are all attached, the gauges clear and the unit isn't missing equipment like the control/output cubicles, it should only need filters and cleanup of the fuel system.
That they probably have been sitting on the DRMO/GL lot for a few months is the limit of the damage. Mine needed fuel system cleaning plus gauge/meter servicing. All but the frequency meter were salvageable. This included taking the percent rated current meter apart and re-gluing the damping magnet as water intrusion caused it to debond, pinning the damping vane and preventing movement. They are sealed but you can take them apart and clean/adjust if you know how.
The oil pressure gauge was dirty and leaked rain water. Plus a spider had nested inside. The fuel gauge had corrosion too, it was easily opened for cleaning and repainting.
The Nylon outer covering on the exposed wire was gone, this was replaced by clear heat shrink to protect the fiberglass. Then the wiring harness was loomed with corrugated split loom.
The most work was the fuel system. Tank had about two dozen rust holes and full of rust. The filler cap and strainer basket was desoldered, then rivets drilled for complete removal to allow complete access . Phosphoric acid eventually removed all rust, holes welded and interior coated with POR Universal Tank Sealant. Like new and should never rust.
The injection pump was gummed and inoperative. With good dexterity, the control collar lever assembly was removed to clean properly. Then a few shots of Berryman B12 inside the pump cleaned the rest. No need for retiming the injection pump but still takes a few hours.
This MEP-002A is rock steady at 60.5 Hz under a 3 kW load and jumps to 61 Hz when that load is removed. It has driven a stick welder at 200 amperes output (roughly 35 volts arc voltage) without blowing any smoke.
If you have heating by #2 fuel oil, the 002/003As are perfect. Noise is best controlled by enclosing. Just baffle the air inlet and exhaust. Some line the enclosure with lead sheet but regular drywall (5/8", fire rated) is sufficient as the noise is lower frequency once warmed up. Lead only stops the initial diesel clatter.
joesco
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Spent about 100 hours on my MEP-002A and about $2k in total and gave up. Now I am parting it out. Just very frustration as I have been restoring military old iron for 20 years and this project got the best of me. My advice, a Yanmar 6.5kw Genset for about $2250.00. That's where my funds are going too. Just one man's opinion. Good Luck!
stampy
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7 out of 9 ran but I never tried one and I need a starter for another. One of the nine (the only robin diesel) smokes like it's on fire, but it runs. The other 6 run great, and produce power. Some you can actually pick up for a little above scrap value, so if they don't run part them out and scrap the rest ( I still need a starter for a 15kw unit also if anyone has one for reasonable $)
dependable
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Keith_J
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wsucougarx
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I have lucked out thus far. 2/2 runners. A 3kw and a 60kw. It is indeed a crapshoot. Dont let low hours cool you. Ive seen several seized low hour gennies at gl.
R Racing
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1 engine completely locked up ( main bearings welded to crank) 1100 hrs.The other wiring harness burned to a crisp and welded together as well as a toasted starter. couldnt see that on GL pics. had to rewire the entire Gen.Hrs on it were 1500.