Genneral Questions about CUCVs, still trying to get one!

[Loco_Hosa]

Well, I decided to pass on an M1009 a few weeks ago because I just couldn't afford to get the one i had my eyes on. I still want one of these trucks, and Im putting money together now to get one.

Sadly, as a student at a tech school, I still live with my mom and dad, and they pay my car insurance as long as I keep going to school (School is paid for by the state). I have found that if i go against their advice, then it usually leads to a fight, and then they threaten to take away my car insurance, so I give in. Usually this is over things like, "I dont think you should go off roading with your daily driver when you have no idea what your doing, you will break it and be screwed" or "No I dont think you should take the camaro up to the drag strip, you dont have the money to fix it when it breaks"

These are reasonable examples, and even when I am sure that everything will be fine, I listen to them because it makes life alot simpler and I like being able to live at home. Now they are completely against me getting one of these trucks, and insist that if I want a truck, I should buy one off criegslist that DOESN'T have the 6.2 diesel.

Mom and Dad's reasoning is:
1. Everyone knows the detriot diesels are garbage, it will be slow and break, and you (Being me) have no idea how to work on a diesel engine.
2. Even though the odomiter only has 40,000-60,000 miles, a lot of those miles were likely spent idling, which is hard on an engine.
3. What if it breaks down on the way back?

I understand my parents concerns, but I really feel this would be a good decision for me, and I have decided I want to save some cash, then go buy two trucks, tow one home with the other, then sell one once I am back in Washinton, which would give me most of that money back.

I have decided that I want one of these trucks, now I am asking ya'll to help me with facts to convince mom and dad its a good idea

I have three points I want to use,
1. the cost to modify a civilian truck to be right up there with one of these monsters (M1008, M1009, or M1028 all come to mind) with the brush guards, the 4 way locking differentials, and possibly the tires used on military trucks, arn't they taller than stock and all terrain rated?

2. The value of the truck even if the engine explodes, I saw one guy selling his M1008 with a blown head gasket for $1500, which is more than I plan to spend on one from the army.

3. The cost and difficulty level if the 6.2 explodes of getting the truck back on the road with a gas engine, or a newer diesel, or a 6.5 turbo diesel.

I would also love some people's testimonials, how long have you had your rig, what problems have you had, and how many miles you have put on it, what you paid, and anything else you can think of.

4. One last question, whats the best way to tow one CUCV behind anther CUCV? If I was only to buy one, could I tow one home behind a 1988 Jeep Cherokee? (4 liter straight six)

 

[Loco_Hosa]

A few other questions I had,

5. How long did it take You from the day the auction ended till you were able to come pick it up? At that point, how much time do you have before you MUST pick it up?

6. What did you have to do before you could get it registered in your state and get tabs on it?

7. In the case of the M1008 or M1028, they are limited to only 55 mph by their gearing, and the easiest way (And the coolest) to fix this is with taller tires, how tall are stock, and how tall can you go without a lift?

 

[hobie237]

1. Don't know about the tires for the 1009, but the 1008's aren't great, but aren't awful, either, and they're about 32". 4-way lockers? The 1009 has the gov-lok (gov-bomb), the 1008 a Detroit Locker (both have front opens) and the 1028 has a front limited-slip and a Detroit in the rear.

2. The guy is asking $1500, that doesn't mean he's going to get it. True, you could likely part it out for more than you paid for it, but that's true of almost any semi-desirable and inexpensive older car/truck. While it's comforting to know that you won't necessarily be out any money in the long run, parting out a car/truck is a royal PITA.

3. 6.2 and 6.5 engines can be had pretty cheap, and the parts aren't too expensive to rebuild it. Repowering with a 6.5 is pretty easy, other engines more difficult, particularly if it's completely custom, compared to, say, a 350 or 454 that could have been ordered for the truck and therefore junkyard parts exist to do the swap.

4. Custom tow bar to mount to the shackle positions with a lunette ring for the pintle hitch on the other end.

5. Dunno, bought it through a third party, which I'd highly recommend for you.

6. Same as any other used car purchase.

7. You run out of gear at 71 or 72mph. Taller tires may be the "coolest" way to get there, but remember, you'll no longer get the full benefits of the deep gearing (4.56) if you cancel it out with tall tires. Blazers have 3.08 gearing. I'm going with a 700R4 swap in addition to taller tires- the lower first gear should cancel the effects of the taller tires, the overdrive will help a heck of a lot more on the highway.

I'd strongly suggest buying one that's already out of the service. Yeah, you'll pay more, but you don't have to mess around with pickup, you don't have to wait for a title, and you can test drive it and everything as extensively as you like BEFORE you buy it.

 

[tsmall07]

I definitely wouldn't buy one from GL and immediately drive it across the country. That just isn't a good plan. I wouldn't drive anything across the country unless I'd had it for at least 6 months and knew everything about it. I drove from Blacksburg, VA to San Francisco and back this summer so I know what I'm talking about. There is a vast expanse of nothingness during that trip pretty much no matter which way you take. Couple that with the unknown condition of wiring and cooling hoses on a truck that could have been sitting for months or years and it starts to not look so good.

I'm all for pointless adventures (done a few), but you really need to think of and account for all the variables that could happen.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

I definitely wouldn't buy one from GL and immediately drive it across the country. That just isn't a good plan. I wouldn't drive anything across the country unless I'd had it for at least 6 months and knew everything about it. I drove from Blacksburg, VA to San Francisco and back this summer so I know what I'm talking about. There is a vast expanse of nothingness during that trip pretty much no matter which way you take. Couple that with the unknown condition of wiring and cooling hoses on a truck that could have been sitting for months or years and it starts to not look so good.

I'm all for pointless adventures (done a few), but you really need to think of and account for all the variables that could happen.

I have had this thought, and I know there would still be a million and one things that can go wrong, but I figure if I bring two batterys, replacement hoses and belts and install them right away, that should take quiet a bit of the un-certainty away. Dont get me wrong, I know that still leaves 999,998 things that can still go wrong.

I also really think I want to get two trucks, then tow one home behind the other. If I have a breakdown, I can switch tow vehicles. Then when I get back to Washington, I sell one.

 

[tsmall07]

It all really depends on your mechanical ability. If you're reasonably competent, you might be ok, but if you happen to break in the wrong place it can cost you more than money. I would definitely avoid trying this in the more extreme parts of the year.

 

[m4A1]

Definitely agree with not buying one from GL and expect to drive it. I've had good luck with my two purchases but they were pre-EUC and I went and inspected them first.

 

[chicklin]

I've got one for $1500 that just needs some floor pans, front inner fenders and a tranny seal. A little far from you, but a good price: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=26857

 

[Dodgeman1941]

Hey Loco,

Being a parent I can give you this info, I bought a M1009 for my boy's first set of wheels. A M1009 is an inexpensive vehicle. It is rather rugged. The 6.2 gets better fuel milage then a 350 in the same vehicle could ever dream of {now if fuel prices would equal out like they should} It is a basic design that some one with mild mechanical ability can work on with out having to spend huge money at a repair shop for basic repair work. There is no fancy crap that will break, like cruise, ac, power windows, ect.

As for the GL thing, I, like many others have already recommended, buy from a private source. For the little bit more you won't get totally hosed for a bad motor, tranny, ect.

Good luck with mom and dad. If they have any questions, they may gladdly ask me.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

Grr, all it takes is money.

Too much money v.v

I think maybe a private party rig would be a great choice also, but it costs more money that way

Right now, there is nothing on my side of the country I am interested in.

 

[tsmall07]

Something will come up. It would definitely be cheaper to find a private party truck on that coast than it would be to get a GL truck (that might break down) and drive it back. It cost me almost $700 to drive back to VA from SF and that was in a car that gets 23 mpg and runs on regular unleaded (granted that was at the height of gas prices).

 

[hobie237]

I think maybe a private party rig would be a great choice also, but it costs more money that way

Maybe, maybe not. What if the truck you buy from GL craps out with 2000 miles to go? I don't mean busts a hose and slows you down by a day, I mean what if the trans lets go? What do you do if the driveshaft is really bent (very common)? How about if the trans is cracked and you don't find out until you're picking it up (happened to a friend)? What if no rust shows in the photos, and the truck looks like a low-mileage creampuff, but you get there to find extensive salt rust and two different leaks, as well as mostly dysfunctional brakes, because it was their plow truck for 20 years (glad we previewed that one)?

I'm not sure how much money you're looking for, but I think asking prices for most CUCVs are optimistic at best- just look at how many go up on ebay, the reserve isn't met or nobody pays the buy it now, and then they get relisted, again and again. All said and done, I paid $2900 for my truck which passed inspection on the first try. Having watched many, many GL auctions, I'm not sure how you could do much better than that.

Note, I'm not saying you shouldn't buy a truck on this coast and drive it back to yours- I bought my Miata last spring from CA, flew out and drove it home. But, before it was a done deal, I was sent all the maintenance records I wanted to see, and I knew my way around the car pretty well.

Also, the M1008 gearing will become really old, really fast on a cross country trip, particularly when you're going 55 and everybody else is flying by you.