Glow Plug relay ?'s merged

[ida34]

glow plug relay questions.

I think the glow plug relay is going out on my cucv. From looking at the wiring diagram it looks like the relay is triggered by a negative pulse from the glow plug controller. The other small wire looks to be a ignition triggered positive that stays on as long as the ignition switch is in the run position.

Regular starter relays are triggered by a positive from the ignition switch start position. This would seem to suggest a regular starter solenoid switch can not be used.

Some posts have said that the relay is available from any auto parts store. Is it a special relay? My controller is bypassed now and is triggered by a positive pulse. I plan on returning the system to original condition using a new controller but I need to make sure everything is working before I do.

Do I need to get a glow plug relay or is there a generic relay that will work?

 

[Armada]

Chuck, FLMV has them. Reasonably priced. http://www.flmv.net/cucv.htm
So you got it running! Strong runner? Trans and t-case ok?

 

[mangus580]

The relay is a pretty standard relay. You will need a 4 post relay, where the 2 heavy posts are the switched posts, and the 2 small ones are postive and negative control for the relay. Some relays only have 1 small terminal, as they are self grounding. Does this make sense?

 

[ida34]

Chuck, FLMV has them. Reasonably priced. http://www.flmv.net/cucv.htm
So you got it running! Strong runner? Trans and t-case ok?

I did finally get it worked out last weekend. Changed all the fluids except diffs and they are going to be changed this weekend. I had to get the new inner fender in. As soon as I got the batteries in I bleed the new fuel filter I put it and it fired right up. I have to change some wheel bearings, put in the driver's window, fix the tailgate crank, and put in a stereo. I plan to start driving it for my everyday vehicle by the end of next week.
Everything seems tight and it likes to run. The exhaust needs to be replaced and I think the bearings are going out on the pass alt. Shifts great. The transfer shifter seems to jump out of 4 hi to 2 hi so I have to figure out how to tighten it up. It is really a lot of fun. The manual glow plug bypass works ok but I need to put in new self limiting plugs so they do not swell.

I had planned to get the controller from FLMV so I guess I will just add in the relay to the order. Some may wonder why I would put all this effort into fixing the military system but I want to keep it as much original as possible and want to retain the ability to jump start with the slave cable.

Thanks
Chuck

 

[ida34]

The relay is a pretty standard relay. You will need a 4 post relay, where the 2 heavy posts are the switched posts, and the 2 small ones are postive and negative control for the relay. Some relays only have 1 small terminal, as they are self grounding. Does this make sense?

It does make sense and confirms what the wiring diagram seems to say. I think if restore the military glow plug controller I will have to find the right relay that is negative triggered. I have a Ford tractor that has a negative triggered ford type relay. It seems like the same relay used on my truck for the western snowplow. The get the positive feed from the constant side of the large terminals internally. The ground is supplied by the switched source. Most starter relays are positive triggered so if worse comes to worse I will just use the spare relay I have for my plow then get another to replace it later.

Thanks for the insight.

Chuck

 

[muddobber40]

IF you have an Oreilly's around the part number is GPR1...if not it is the same relay used on civilian trucks with the 6.2. and is $18.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

I hav e the part # at home from autozone, will post later today, re the t-case: Its the shift forks and/or the pad on the end of them. cheap part but you have to take the case apart to change them. I have an extra t-case that I would be willing to let go for cheap. PM me

 

[MuddWeiser]

Glow Plug Solenoid = DEAD.

My glow plug solenoid died... I THINK. As usual - Was working great, went out to go to work and wouldn't start - EXCEPT THIS TIME I WIN - I only played the cranking game once before I gave up to save my new batteries

"Wait light" stays on FOR EVEEEEER. Solenoid clicks when key turned "on" and turns off 20secs later BEFORE the "wait light" turns off...

I checked the voltage at all the vitals

Glowplug at relay = NO VOLTAGE (.15v).

Solenoid, Positive Feed (from battery) = 12.45v .

Solenoid, Glow Plug Double Orange = NO VOLTAGE ~ .15v (tested when key is first turned on... and waiting until solenoid clicks off. then repeated.)

I'm thinking glowplug solenoid is dead since it gives no volatage at the orange wires. Still clicks, but voltage never goes above .15v ?

But now I would like to figure out why my Glow Plug solenoid died? So as per good advice I wired a battery cable from front batter (+) terminal to replace the wire coming from the resistor(?) feed as it was giving 24v and toasted glowplugs. I am hoping it also at that time toasted my solenoid - and the mileage I received out of the solenoid after the "fix" were just "BONUS".

Am wondering if wiring the positive feed off front battery to solenoid has burned it out? It is supposed to receive constant voltage on the top terminal of solenoid correct?


thanks.


P.S. --- Just a standard civilian 12v solenoid right?

 

[mangus580]

yes its a civvy solenoid.

think of the solenoid as an overgrown switch. There is no reason that having it wired like that, would kill it. I suspect, that it was just time. Solenoids arc every time they engage.... and will eventually eat away at the terminals.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

Mangus is right, you have it wired corectly. Due to the fact that your wait light still comes on, I would gues that your controller card is still good. Its in the black box under the dash, pull it out and check for burnt chips just to be sure. Be sure that they give you the correct solenoid at the parts store, should be constant power to top post and the two small terminals are the switched ones, some only have one small terminal as they are self-grounding (you don't want this kind). The cucv's GP controller activates the solenoid by switching the ground (both the small terminal and the top post should have 12v, though the small one might be an ignition hot)