"GREAT LIST " for picking up your Deuce!

[jeepthrills]

Ok gents, here it is. I am scheduled to pick up the deuce one week from today. My original $500 transport guy backed out (no big surprise) and now i got plan "b" transporter for $685.

I have them coming at about 1pm. I am planning on being on base at 8 or 9 (I already cleared it with the site manager). This transport company charges an extra 200 bucks if the vehicle is nonoperational. So I am trying to make it at least marginally operable. Here is my list of supplies:

1 Case of 15/40
10 gallons premium diesel
2 optima yellow top batteries (welcoming any thoughts on these)
full assortment standard wrenches and sockets, screwdrivers etc...
5 gallon bucket of GL-1 with pump
2qts DOT 5
assorted funnels
old auto clutch return springs ( incase throttle linkage is loose)

No major repairs are allowed to be done. Nothing can be drained, only filled. According to site manager only fuel tank is drained by motorpool for DRMO vehicles.I am not sure I believe him 100%.

Question: Where is the air bleed for the fuel filters? or is it a self priming system ?

what else do I need to know.

NOW I AM EXCITED <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_tongue.gif" alt="Tongue"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_tongue.gif" alt="Tongue">

 

[ironhorsethegeneral]

If it is a multifueled like ours there is a bleeder nut on top of the secondary and final fuel filter assembly to help bleed the system. It is on the left sode of the engine near the firewall. Since it has a tank pump the fuel will go from the tank and flow through the primary, secondary and then final fuel filter. Do this with the master switch on. When you see fuel coming out of the bleeder system is bled up to that point. Retighten bleeder screw. Go back in hold throttle wide open and crank. The cylinders will fire one to two at a time back off throttle a little at a time till vehicle smooths out. Avoind reving engine past 1000rpms. After a couple of minutes ideling it should be ok. At this time make sure lines and eveything is ok. Good Luck!!!!!

 

[Desert Rat]

JT;
Check your front axle boots to see if they are torn or missing. They keep the bearing grease from escaping the bearings. Saturn Surplus has them. They also have fuel filters. Since it's doubtful the diesel in the system is any good, change the filters and save you fuel injector distrobutor pump ($1000 repair for me in Terre Haute). If you can blow out the fuel lines with compressed air and eliminate as much junk as you can, do it. Also check your battery connectors for rust and/or corrosion. A bad connection will burn out the starter solenoid quickly. Also check the air tanks under the chassis behind the spare tire to see if there is any water in them. Check again once the engine is running to clean out any residual water or other goop in the system. If possible pour some rubbing alcohol into the air compressor intake to help dry out your air system.
Just some things I learned the hard way from Chicago.

Desert Rat

1967 Kaiser M35A2 wo/w..er now M109A2&1/2?<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink">
1953 Fruehauf M105A2
(2) 1998 Ford Interceptors
And the list goes on and on and.....

 

[Desert Rat]

Oops almost forgot, Marvel Mystery Oil, add a cup to the motor oil and a tablespoon to the fuel tank before adding your fuel to better mix the two. Also add some Slick 50 Turbo Formula to the oil before cranking to help your turbo get lubed again. And to avoid blowing the motor, remove the mushroom air filter from the outside and have someone ready with a 2X4 to cover the open inlet to the air filter if the fuel pump decides to go bezerk and over-rev the motor. The 2X4 will eliminate the air flow and shut down the engine.

Desert Rat

1967 Kaiser M35A2 wo/w..er now M109A2&1/2?<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink">
1953 Fruehauf M105A2
(2) 1998 Ford Interceptors
And the list goes on and on and.....

 

[jeepthrills]

DR!
Yeah I got that 2x4 trick from one of LH7's old posts..Good idea!BTW did you get the pics? incase you didnt, I posted the rest from GL on the www.azvjc.org. Can someone please look at them and tell me what motor does that look like, turbo or no.

What about (if it is a turbo truck, I still dont know) sending a few drops down the oiling line to get the old bearing wet?

Back in my Mack truck days, I being the apprentice, got the joyous job of bleeding the airtanks down and then dumping a halp pint of methanol into each one every other week during the winter months, for 40 trucks...That was an experience I never thought I would have to use again!! I guess that ideas' Moot.'<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_sad.gif" alt="Sad">' Does the inlet on the compressor have a filter or is it just open??Is it replacable or washable?

Do the trucks with the fording kits also have the mushroom??

Still no opinions on the Optima batteries<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_question.gif" alt="Question">

is the fuel line near the first filter rubber? cause I do have a small 12V compressor I can also bring with arrowhead attachment (dont know what else to call it) which fits into a line up to say 1/4" or maybe even 3/8" with a little tape wrapped around it and blow the line clean from front to tank (yes I know disconnect from tank first).

 

[Desert Rat]

JT;
Looks like a turbo, but the photos are at the wrong angle to be conclusive. If it's a turbo send some Slick 50 Turbo and some Rotella T down the line and Your turbo will be very happy! My compressor has a wire mesh filter to keep out junk. I know there are at least three different styles of filters, depending upon the style of compressor. I have one of the older style compressors. I can't make out the type of compressor you have from the photos, but generally speaking the newer compressor is post '72. Usually the filters are washable. Just check to see if you have an exception to the rule before you start in. Storm has a couple of exceptions in other areas suited to winter use. I'm sure Arizona has some regional anomilies as well. Fording kits move the mushroom toward the very top to gain maximum clearance. I have no experience with Optima batteries. The fuel line comes up at the fuel filter closest to the firewall. You can gain easy access to it from topside.
Take some photos of the adventure! Share the joy!<img src="emoticons/icon_smile.gif" alt="Smile">

Desert Rat

1967 Kaiser M35A2 wo/w..er now M109A2&1/2?<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink">
1953 Fruehauf M105A2
(2) 1998 Ford Interceptors
And the list goes on and on and.....

 

[RF202]

Sounds like Longhunter, Desert Rat and IronHorse have covered everything as well as yourself. All I will add is that you will thoroughly enjoy this experience. Glad you got it. So, GOOD LUCK and we'll be looking for a full report!

Thanks,
John

 

[jeepthrills]

ok I am leaving Monday afternoon which will have me fighting the traffic in LA by about 8 pm. First thing tuesday morning I will be on base in Vandenberg. Here is my check list Please feel free to add comments or concerns:

chock wheels
remove fuel line from tank
open water seperator
remove secondary and final filter, clean bosses (are these canister filters?)
Blow fuel line back towards tank
reinstall fuel line and add 5 gallons of fresh diesel
install 3 new fuel filters (ANYONE GOT CIVI PART#'S, heard bad stuff about napa 3511&3512)
Check engine oil, and make sure oil filters are in place
check air filter, replace if needed
check coolant
check and tighten belts
check attachment of stop cable to injector pump
check front diff and knuckle boots
check master cylinder level
open air tanks
check tranny oil
check t-case oil
check center diff and axle seal
check rear diff and axle seal
push brake pedal 10 times hard and check for signs of leaky wheel cylinder etc...
Check circuit breakers(How do you tell if circuit breakers are good?)
make sure master switch is off and Eng Stop cable is out
install new batteries
If turbo motor pre lube turbo bearing
remove mushroom
crack secondary and final Fuel filter bleeder
master switch to "ON" (yikes) <img src="emoticons/icon_smile_shock.gif" alt="Shock">
standby secondary filter bleeder....close
standby final bleeder......close
master switch to "OFF"<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_shock.gif" alt="Shock">
get helper into position by mushroom
climb into cab and say small prayer<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_wink.gif" alt="Wink">
push in stop cable
tranny to "N"
winch control to "N"
master switch to "ON"
check Volts
clutch pedal down feeling for free play
starter engage feather throttle
CHUG CHUG CHUG CHUG CHUG CHUG PPRRRRRRRRRR!!!<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_big.gif" alt="Big Smile"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_big.gif" alt="Big Smile"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_big.gif" alt="Big Smile"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_big.gif" alt="Big Smile"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_big.gif" alt="Big Smile">
Watch OIL PRESSURE for atleast a minute
squirt alcohol liberally into compressor while watching goop drip from airtanks...close airtanks
check around fuel filters and tank
generally look at every thing
After "low air warning" goes off and pressure is at or above 80LB stand on brake pedal, then get out and check for leaks

Thats my check list. Please make suggestions

Thanks Guys!!!

ps is the fuel pump fuse just a standard plastic plug in style?

 

[jeepthrills]

WOW LH-7!

I guess I feel honored. A rookie like my self did an OK job on that checklist!<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_nuts.gif" alt="Nuts"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_pimp.gif" alt="Pimp"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_smokin.gif" alt="Smokin'"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_tand.gif" alt="Tand"><img src="emoticons/icon_smile_thumzup.gif" alt="Thumb Up">

 

[Desert Rat]

LH;
I'd love to turn this thread into a sticky note, just going nuts trying to figure out how to do it......

 

[Desert Rat]

LH;
Thanks! Nick wore me out at the baseball park this afternoon. Time to<img src="emoticons/icon_smile_zzz.gif" alt="Zzzzzzz">

 

[fujinama]

A note on Yellowtops: We use them to run computers and data collection equipment on cars at work. They seem to hold up even at -40. No liquid to spill, maybe even water tight for fording, but I don't know. They do have vents, but I think they are just pressure relief, and not a breather.

 

[FSBruva]

[No message]

 

[Longhunter7]

[No message]

 

[yeager1]

[No message]

 

[FSBruva]

[No message]

 

[Mcbob]

Trust nothing but your instincts, if you feel like something isnt right, it probably isnt. I had to learn this the hard way on my first personal vehicle, an 83 ranger that STILLL leaks oil after a total engine rebuild.

 

[talon12]

Marvel mystery oil works for quite a few applications, including air systems when mixed with methanol. In 20+ years of working on or around oil drilling rigs, i have noticed that virtually every motorman sooner or later comes to depend on a mix of mystery oil/methanol(just enough for a medium pink tint) to keep air lines from freezing up in winter and to keep air valves/quick releases from sticking. The mixture is generally called "panther piss". I have no idea where that name came from. I use marvel mystery oil as assemby oil for rebuilds and particularly for pre storage prep and post storage startup. I have noticed additional products(spray) marketed now by Marvel that are packaged with the traditional red/black coloring. This product is not the same as mystery oil and does not have the same qualities that I use mystery oil for(almost fooled me). I do not allow WD40 in my house, garage, or vehicles and I cringe when I see people using it thinking that it is a good lubricant. There is a product called Aerokroil, made by Kano labs that works well, has a smell similar to mystery oil and has a decent penetrating/lubricating quality.

 

[houdel]

One comment to add to the "GREAT LIST" for picking up your Deuce!

After making all the checks listed by Sergeant Major and you are getting ready to fire the engine for the first time, DO NOT push in the stop cable and start cranking! Recommended procedure is to turn OFF the fuel switch (if equipped), pull the engine stop cable out, turn on the accessory switch to power the starter button, then hit the start button and let the engine turn over 2-3 seconds and listen to the sound the engine makes. If if cranks smoothly with no clunking sounds, then turn on the fuel switch, push in the stop cable and fire it up. If it doesn't crank smoothly or you hear a clunking sound, STOP!

The reason is to check for hydrostatic lock. If your engine has a head gasket leak, or the fuel injection system has a minor leak, you could have water or fuel in one of the cylinders. Fuel and water do not compress. If you try to immediately start the engine with water or fuel in one of the cylinders, it will fire until the cylinder with the fuel or water in it comes up on its compression stroke. Then you engine will stop with a loud, expensive BANG, as in a blown piston, bent connecting rod, or worse!

So be warned - ALWAYS crank your multifuel 2-3 seconds with the fuel switch OFF and stop cable OUT before trying to start it, or be prepared to pay the price!

Information from PS-28, The Multi Fuel Engine Operator Guide. This guide is posted in the "Technical Manuals" link under "Resources" on the Steel Soldier home page.

 

[liljohn]

Personal tip here for something not only when picking up your Deuce, but to just keep handy all the time. Just learned this one today.

Keep a small (2-3 inches) chunk of 14-16 gauge wire with the ends stripped off, and some electrical tape, handy.

The flasher units located on the inside driver's side fenderwell of these trucks like to die. And when they do not only are your signals dead, so are your brake lights - very, very bad!!

A quick fix that can get you home safely is to go in, disconnect the electrical connector going to the unit, and look at the connector. Have a flashlight handy because they will be hard to see, but the recepticals will be marked with letters A, B, and C. Use the wire to short pins A and B together. Tape the whole mess up to keep it from coming apart. Note that you will NOT reconnect your flasher unit! So your turn signals will no longer flash, they will just go on steady - BUT you will still have brake lights! So as long as you know and use proper hand signals, you can still get home safely and LEGALLY.

Hope this helps.