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Hard starting

Chevrolet73

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Hello I just bought a m1008 which appeared to be 12v converted. I removed starter verified it was a 12v starter. I then redone all the battery cables with 1gauge leads and the starter lead 2/0. The negative cable lead coming from block was going to the engines intake manifold bolt is this correct? Any way I put two new type 31 batteries in it with 625cca and it does not seem to turn the truck over good enough. It only has one alternator the driverside one. I have had it running by jumping it off with 6.0 diesel. Do you think I have to low of cranking amps for these Cucv trucks? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

Chevrolet73

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That could be a possibility I guess just turns over great when he jumped off by my other truck I guess I can send it off with my alternator to get rebuild its only putting out 13.1 volts
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Charge your batteries good and then give it a roll. You said you have new batteries? Try a jumper cable clamped to the negative battery post and the block at a clean spot see if that helps any.
 

Chevrolet73

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That seemed to help a lot.. I'm not sure why the way I bought it the negative cable is running to the intake. I will redo it and run it straight to the front of the block.. Still not sure on alternator putting out 13.0-13.1 volts I'm assuming it's aftermarket it just has a one wire hookup like the ones I run on my race cars
 

Chevrolet73

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So let me continue to pick your brain.. Sorry my first one of these trucks.. They left the drivers side alternator which they just had one large red wire hooked to the battery marked terminal.. It is not doing anything like that. So I tried jumping the #2 post to the battery post on alternator to excite it(as u would do on a normal 3 wire Chevy alt.) that did not do anything.. Did the same with number one terminal still nothing.. Looked at pics online at factory drivers side alt. They have another post I'm assuming a ground goes to it my alternator does not have that it has the place for it marked R but no post.. So if I get another alternator one with the post can I get it to charge by jumping out a terminal and having that isolated ground hooked up?
 

rsh4364

Active member
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greensprings ,ohio
It really depends on how your rig was re-wired to operate with 12v,search Rosscommon 12v conversion for the correct way to convert to 12v.Might lead to some answers for you.Or post a bunch of underhood picts.of your current wiring and some of the guys might be able to help.
 

rsh4364

Active member
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greensprings ,ohio
I have a habit of adding a few grounds to my CUCV's. it never hurts to have everything well grounded.
Grounds really help these trucks.I have 1/0ga from batt.ground to ground block on firewall,1/0 from frame to ground block,1/0 from engine block to ground block,4ga. from front batt. ground to core support,4ga.from core support to frame and 8ga from 12v alt to frame in addition to the fact.ground running to the intake.I also want to run 8ga from under dash ground point to frame soon.
 
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Chevrolet73

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Already looked there they want you to use the pass. Alt. Which mine is long gone I'm just wandering if there's a way to excite the drivers side alternator..so it'll start charging
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
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S.F. Bay Area/California
Start with voltage measurement.

Charged 12V lead acid batteries should have at least 12.56V at rest (no load, ignition and all lights, etc..., off). Below 11V at rest and you likely have a dead cell.

Did you say you put two Group 31's in with 625CCA each? In parallel this should give you roughly 1250CCA assuming a full charge. If you only have one battery with 625CCA, it's probably too little current. Low voltage and low current melts starters -low voltage means lower start speed, higher torque load since you never get up to a high enough speed to overcome much of the internal friction - this leads to higher current draw, and current will eat up a motor at these levels. I do believe even civilian models that had a 6.2L will have two parallel batteries.

Other thing to check is the condition of the brushes in the starter - I'm presuming you have an original 27MT - the lower-speed direct drive starters draw a bunch of current and that is really hard on brushes. Worn-out brushes or brush springs mean less sustained current gets to the motor.


As others have said, I recommend a big fat ground to the engine. The starter motor will draw much more power than the alternators will ever generate (27MT can draw more than 5kW during a start), so a big fat ground cable (>1GA) from the block right back the battery(s) will get more voltage and current to the starter motor. A few (>2Ga) ground straps to each head where the alternator brackets attach will reduce the current that goes through the head gasket and head bolts for the alternator and the glow plugs. Steel has about 1/5 the conductivity of copper, so the less of that you go through the better things will perform. Remember that manufacturing cost was a big concern for GM, so they cut as many corners electrically as they could reasonably do - there are some improvements that can be made on their design without the same budget limitations (eliminating ground returns was a common theme with cost reductions in the 1980's GM vehicles).

I know that you're not asking about moving back to a 24V starter, but one thing to consider is that for the same power (watts), you need half the current at double the volts. 5kW / 12Volts = 416Amps AND 5kW / 24V = 208A. If you were to use a 24V 28MT gear reduction starter, the internal motor will spin much faster (as gear reduction motors do) and would not be as easily affected by less current availability as the gear reduction handles the torque multiplication (volts and winding type affect rpms more in a DC motor).

For my money, a pair of 1100CCA Group 31's in 24V configuration with a 24V 28MT is the best you can do for a 6.2L diesel. My 2cents
 

Chevrolet73

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Georgia
I do not have passenger side alternator.. Yes I was lacking on my ground now I have grounds everywhere, probably over kill.. But now my issue is the driver side alternator is not charging.. I just need to know how to excite it (somebody has completely hacked up the wiring) everything in the truck works electrical wise I would just like to get the alternator to charge and should be good to go.. Just wondering if anybody has ran into this or am I the basket case.
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
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S.F. Bay Area/California
Is it the original alternator?
Have you tried to get it to charge while driving or only at idle after start? (it probably won't even "turn on" until you get above idle a bit first)
How many wires are coming out of it?
Have you checked your fusible links?
Does the charge/Gen light come on in the dashboard while the truck is running?
 

Chevrolet73

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Location
Georgia
There was only one large red wire coming off alternator.. From the terminal marked battery.. I don't know if it's factory alternator it says ac delco on it.. The terminals have are 1 and 2 for a 2 pin plug to go into.. Then next to the battery terminal there is a spot marked R but there is no post or nothing to hook to.. I have tried jumping terminal 2 to the batter terminal with no luck (usually works on most Chevy alt.) but I don't know anything about these 6.2.. Frowny face
 

Chevrolet73

New member
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Location
Georgia
No there is not..only one large red wire was on terminal marked battery which was running over to hot block on firewall.. Tried everything to get it to "kick" on but no luck.. I know what someone was trying to do convert it to a "one" wire alt. But I guess failed and gave up..
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
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Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
Okay, if it IS the OEM alternator you're short two wires. One comes from the battery to supply the regulator, and one come through the idiot light from the ignition circuit to turn on the regulator. Pull the alternator and drag it to an autopart store to have it checked out first, and then we can talk about the rest of the wiring. No sense in digging into the wiring if there's no guarantee that the alternator is working. While it's out, get the model info, and check to see if the regulator is grounded or isolated...
 

Chevrolet73

New member
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Location
Georgia
I have another question.. Have people found it better to bring each battery hot and ground to the blocks or go from battery to batter then block.. I don't see why it matters I would assume it would be the same.. Just looking for some advice on what has worked best for other people.. Thanks!
 
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