Has anyone built an electric or manual throttle lock?

[kenz5380]

In the Marines our Oshkosh trucks had an electric high idle switch and our HMMWVs had a manual throttle lock cable that you could pull out and lock in place to hold the engine rpm at the desired level. Has anyone rigged up either of these in a CUCV? The switch would be the coolest, but I think the manual cable would be the most practical. Any ideas on how to accomplish this?

Thanks

 

[cucv1833]

In the Marines our Oshkosh trucks had an electric high idle switch and our HMMWVs had a manual throttle lock cable that you could pull out and lock in place to hold the engine rpm at the desired level. Has anyone rigged up either of these in a CUCV? The switch would be the coolest, but I think the manual cable would be the most practical. Any ideas on how to accomplish this?

Thanks

What would you use this for. A buddy of mine has something like this on his Jeep
Its a bicycle part(clutch-brake)cable. The lever was mounted on the shifter and the other end of the cable to the throttle. Could be dangerous if used in the wrong way.

You talking about a MTVR 7ton. I drove one once unarthorized

 

[unaffiliated]

A PTO cable comes to mind like a wrecker would have so they can use the winch without running the battery down. They are very stiff so that they can be pushed back to idle. Not sure how you would connect it to the engine though. An electric idle thingy from an old carbureted car might work, you know, the thing that raises the idle when you turn the A/C on. Not sure if that would raise the idle enough to achieve the desired effect.

 

[Warthog]

Amazing what you can find using the advanced search feature.

Searched "hand throttle" in the CUCV forum.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/53916-cucv-hand-throttle.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/31112-hand-operated-throttle-m1008.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/67096-hybred-hand-throttle-cruise-control.html

 

[NPD732]

I have the Hmmwv throttle control mounted in my M1031. It connects to the accelerator pedal and pulls the factory throttle cable.

 

[nattieleather]

Get a throtle cable from any older MV (M35, M151, M38a1) and mount it someplace on the dash or a bracket below the dash and hook it to the throtle cable that hooks to the gas peddle. Then just pull it on and lock it in place. Just like on the old gas motors use to use it for the same thing! Easy peezy.

 

[kenz5380]

My intention here is to be able to get the truck up to temp faster in the winter as well as creating a fast idle setting for long periods of idle where it is best to keep the oil pressure up and or when I am using a power inverter to power some electric appliance.

I am really interested in the idea of a jumper across the high idle solenoid with a switch in the cab. I would like my high idle to be about 1100 rpm if possible, which I saw someone did in one of the threads that Warthog was so kind to find for me. I think a switch would have a nice clean look in the cab, and be very functional. I'm not really sure that my high idle is working at all right now as I have not seen any difference in my idle speed at low temp and operating temp. I'll probably have to look into that first.

Has anyone set up a switch like this? If I can't figure it out, I'll probably just look for a hand throttle out of any number of applications.

I was talking about the MTVR 7 ton trucks, which are amazing vehicles BTW. I like how they just have a switch for high idle to get them warmed up or if your running your air compressor/generator/winch. That is the look/functionality I'm going for.

 

[tequilaiam]

My intention here is to be able to get the truck up to temp faster in the winter as well as creating a fast idle setting for long periods of idle where it is best to keep the oil pressure up and or when I am using a power inverter to power some electric appliance.

I am really interested in the idea of a jumper across the high idle solenoid with a switch in the cab. I would like my high idle to be about 1100 rpm if possible, which I saw someone did in one of the threads that Warthog was so kind to find for me. I think a switch would have a nice clean look in the cab, and be very functional. I'm not really sure that my high idle is working at all right now as I have not seen any difference in my idle speed at low temp and operating temp. I'll probably have to look into that first.

Has anyone set up a switch like this? If I can't figure it out, I'll probably just look for a hand throttle out of any number of applications.

I was talking about the MTVR 7 ton trucks, which are amazing vehicles BTW. I like how they just have a switch for high idle to get them warmed up or if your running your air compressor/generator/winch. That is the look/functionality I'm going for.

The solnoid is not strong enough to move the throttle on its own, it just holds it. So you have to "blip" with your foot and it will hold it open. If your temp sensor and everything else works, the truck will do what you want by itself.

With the truck off, try jumping 12V to the solnoid and move the throttle lever back by hand. You should see the plunger move then and it should change the rest position of the throttle when you release it. There's some threads to adjust the high-idle rest position but I'd verify that the connection is clean and the solnoid moves before messing with that.

The manual idle in other vehicles is for high electric baseloads I believe. Something intermitent like a compressor or winch could make the engine over-rev when it cut out unless it was controlled automatically. Now if you could rig up a solenoid motor for an RC airplane or something to a process controller that would slowly adjust idle if batteries began to discharge that would be the cat's meow.

 

[Barrman]

The fast idle solenoid does not have enough power to move the throttle up by itself. You have to move it first.

The way it is supposed to work is this. There is something called the fast idle and cold advance switch located at the rear outside of the passenger side head. That switch is actually just a temperature sensor. One side of the switch has a constant 12V coming to it anytime the key is on. When the sensor figures the water temp is below 75°. It sends power out the other wire. That turns on the fast idle solenoid and the cold advance solenoid inside the IP. Both solenoids are now on. You as the driver, need to push the throttle down some after you turn the key and then let go to make the fast idle solenoid actually do anything though. Once the engine is started, the solenoids will stay on until the switch figures 75° has been reached.

Running a hot wire just to the fast idle solenoid will work as you mentioned with a switch. However, they do burn up. O'rielly's wants $247 for a new one. That is a pretty expensive idle help compared to a cable of some kind.

 

[kenz5380]

Now that all sounds like some good advice. Instead of using the fast idle solenoid to move the throttle maybe there is a 12 volt electro-mechanical servo I could rig up that would have the strength to just move the throttle. I'm really getting attached to the idea of a switch for this function as opposed to a cable.

I have never looked in an MTVR manual, but I would wager that the high idle switch on there just sends a signal to the engine control computer to raise the idle speed. That whole thing is electronic.

I'll have to look around to see if I can find something like that.

 

[epitts]

My 01 Dodge cummins will if not pluged in, will idle up to 1200Rpm when cold. If still too cold it will shut down three cylinders. Sounds like engine is throwing a rod but will warm engine fast.