• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Help with bearings on old M-105 trailer

NavyRedneck

New member
5
0
0
Location
Boston, MA
I have an old M-105. It was made in the 40's and is actually designated something else, I forget, but it looks like the M-105. I've had it just over a year. The last time I towed it, it was fine with no hot bearings.

Anyway, I was towing it the other day and got it up to 70 mph with maybe 800 lbs of weight in it. It towed great with no swaying and no problems braking. However, after an hour I stopped to check the bearings just like I do with any other trailer and both were warmer than they should be. In fact, one was hot to the touch and I couldn't keep my hand on it for more than 4 or 5 seconds. Significantly hotter than my trucks bearings and I checked the brake drums. Both were cold so they aren't dragging. So I turned around and towed it another hour to get back home. By the time I got home the bearings were cool but the last 15 mins would have been slow speeds and I only went maybe 55 mph max on the return trip.

I see bearings for sale on the internet for the M-105 but I don't see the grease seals or other parts that are supposed to be replaced when you do an axle bearing job. I'm guessing the M-105 bearings will even fit my specific trailer.

Any recommendations? I need this thing to make a one-way 600 mile trip next month. If it can't I'll have to scrap it. Should I try to repack the current bearings or are they already toast? If I do order the M-105 bearings what about the grease seals? I can take it apart but I was hoping to get opinions first. Thanks.
 

MWMULES

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
5,580
349
83
Location
DESOTO, KANSAS
I just replace one side on a M101 my local NAPA had the seal & race in stock but had to wait a day for the cone, also did a M416 last year and they had all the parts in stock. As long as you have the the bad bearing and seal most auto parts stores can get you the replacements in a few days or less. I say take them down and if they are ok, clean, pack and replace, if not go shopping. Ps call around as I found I could have got the set at another store for $15 less.
 

jimm1009

Well-known member
1,165
71
48
Location
Louisville, KY
If you don't find it in your area there is an company here in Lafayette, LA (Nolan Bearings) that can get any bearing from all most any manufacturer or they can cross it to Timken.

Post your numbers (or e-mail them to me is even better) and I'll give them a call on Monday AM just in case. They are local to me so the call is free.
Will need the logo (or name) and the number is you can get it.

CR is "Circle Rawhide" in case you see a CR up front.

If it were an M105 they are the same bearings as the Deuce.

jimm1009

jimm1009@yahoo.com
 
Last edited:

Wolf.Dose

Active member
1,062
9
38
Location
Boehl-Iggelheim, Germany
Bearigs always carry a number. So take them out, clean them and check for the number. The same with the radial seals. Give these numbers to your hardwear shop and ask them to order these parts for you. Bearing numbers did not change for at least 80 years, as well as radial seal numbers. I gues, the seals ar CR seals, the bearings Timken. And a M105 trailer is not from the 40's, or my original TM's are wrong.
Wolf
 

DUG

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,799
73
48
Location
Mesquite, NV
My NAPA had everything in stock - wasn't cheap though.
 

NavyRedneck

New member
5
0
0
Location
Boston, MA
The trailer is an XM-105-E3.

I had to order the 3" 8 point socket. The first place backordered me for a week until I found another site that had it in stock which was another week.

Thanks for all the help.

I pulled the bearings. Good info on the numbers being on the bearings since they do correlate with the same numbers in Timken.
Races are Bower 3920.
Outer bearing is a Bower 392.
Inner bearing is a Bower 3994.

NAPA wanted $42 apiece for the bearings, Autozone $31 but had no races (even at the warehouse) so I went with an online company that charged me $24.82 for the 392, $23.09 for the 3994, and $9.18 for the 3920 (prices are apiece). jbr17llc.com

Sadly, this is still nearly the price that I paid for this trailer but it will be worth it if it fixes it so I can tow it!
 

saddamsnightmare

Well-known member
3,618
80
48
Location
Abilene, Texas
May 11th, 2010.



Navy Redneck:

Most bearing shops should be able to help you find the parts if you can either give them the numbers or let them look over & measure the bearings..... I might say that 70 MPH is a little excessive for a trailer designed for 45 MPH or lesser speeds. I suspect Murphy and his law firm is just waiting to work that trailer over for you..:!:. M105's are destroyers... but even 33kts would be better for the trailer then Interstate Speeds!!!!!


Good luck.
 

NavyRedneck

New member
5
0
0
Location
Boston, MA
The trailer made it to VA while carrying maybe 1000 to 1500 lbs of stuff in it. The bearings were still pretty warm (maybe due to bearing break-in?) so I stayed at 55 mph for the entire trip. I'm pretty stoked it made it because it's gonna make an awesome farm trailer for hauling firewood and other stuff.

Tires definitely took a beating. They do not like asphalt. I did have two spares with me but I'm still amazed that the tires (which may even be original, I don't know) made it that far, too. Lots of gatoring and cracking but they held air really well.

Thanks for all the help!
 
Top