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help with part numbers needed

dlb

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I took the deuce to Iowa and back pulling my M725 there for the FE and first off the tank fuel pump went out but it managed to run and made it home. I changed the pump out and fixed that part.


the transfer case started puking oil out the input and front output seals. does anyone know waht the part #'s are or where you can pick them up at?



Ive changed the secondary filters and gaskets but cant find the part #'s for the gasket on the primary filter. is there such a creature.



Im in the process of putting on a 10 ton? garland winch (off a 5 ton truck) on the front of my deuce and using the hydraulic pump that came with it. my question here is its heavy enough to need power steering now. any clues if you can do this on the older trucks?

I have a 68 M35-A2 with the LDT 465-1C if that would help? :banghead:
 

dlb

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Sweet! thanks for the link! :cool:
thats going down on my things to get list along with the front lockouts. with gas prices out of this world now, up to 5 mpg would like doubling my mileage. I got about 4 to 6 pullin my 725 to Iowa. :yeah:

its like turnin a tank with the winch on it now and that would make it so much easier to turn.
 

Wyattearp

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Hey dave just checking to see if you recieved my pm i sent, I did find out from Cranetruck earlier in a pm that he uses Carquest fuel filters # 86512 the smaller gasket that comes in the box works for the primary filter gasket.

The secondary and final filter uses Carquest gasket #90406 these have to be ordered, i check just a few days ago on these and they were a special order.
 

dlb

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Wyattearp said:
Hey dave just checking to see if you recieved my pm i sent, I did find out from Cranetruck earlier in a pm that he uses Carquest fuel filters # 86512 the smaller gasket that comes in the box works for the primary filter gasket.

The secondary and final filter uses Carquest gasket #90406 these have to be ordered, i check just a few days ago on these and they were a special order.
I sure did and thanks alot for all the help.
 

cranetruck

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With the extra weight on the front axle, be sure to run the tire pressure at about 60psi or so (unless you have 1100's). Actually, it would be a good idea to do that w or w/o the winch. The winch adds more weight on the front axle than a full load centered on the bed.
The freewheeling hubs will probably not give you more than about 1 mpg improvement.
For highway driving, free up the rear either by removing the interaxle propeller shaft or by pulling one of the hubs. An extra front hub will fit in its place. Freeing the rears up will also help you with the steering and front tire wear.
 

dlb

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right now Im runnin the 900's but have a full set of 1100's to be put on it which I hope will get me better highway speed and more mpg.

when I bought the truck it was winter and it has either start, it was hard to start even with the either and took several times to get it to run. as it warmed up it seemed to get a little better but never started right up like Ive heard others. I changed the 2 filters on the engine and checked the filter on the frame rail and it was still in good shape but Im fixing to even change it. when you start it up it sounds kinda like its missin but then after you throttle it a couple times it clears out and starts running good. I took it to Iowa and the tank pump went out on the way there, after I got home I changed the pump out and it started up great and ran strong. now its back to starting weird but reves up fast and seems to have good power. the engine is new and just has a few thousand miles on it, could it be an injector problem or injection pump problem. its the LDT 465-1C and has a new turbo, pump, exhaust, ect. I added seafoam injection cleaner to it and run fuel additives to keep fuel good and no jell with a cetane inhancer. I also run lucus in the oil. am I doing something wrong? :banghead:

i am also wondering if anyone knows of an air filter # that would work for a replacement.
 

cranetruck

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Several things to go over, make sure you don't have any water in the fuel tank or primary filter. There is a drain plug on the fuel tank that you can unscrew. Drain a gallon or so into a clean bucket and look for water (it will separate and end up on the bottom). If nothing, just pour the fuel back into the tank.
I never use any additives in the fuel.
The primary fuel filter can be cleaned. Remove it and clean it in methanol or something else suitable. Methanol is available as "fuel tank de-icer" at most parts places.
The batteries must be healthy and fully charged for fast cranking.
Keep your foot off the "gas" pedal when starting, the governor does it for you.
Check the flame heater nozzle for leakage. It must not leak raw fuel into the intake manifold.
I get my air filter from Memphis Equipment.
If you havn't changed oil, get an oil analysis kit, get a sample of the oil (engine at operating temp) and send it off for analysis.

Since you are crawling all over the engine now, check the coolant while you are at it. should be clear and light green. Replace at least every two years (50-50 glycol/distilled water). I use additives in my coolant.

Finally, drive the deuce now and then and let it reach operating temp before shutting it back down. If the engine only idles now and then it will start/run rough.
 
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